Gamezilla

Now all they make is the 'extended performance' which cost the same as royal purple and isnt the same as their regular 15w50. I called them up and the guy on the phone with me was smart about it and told me I was out of luck.

What now? What synthetic should I start using now that Mobil1 is out of the question?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I think you have been given bad information. It is very unlikely that Mobil 1 is no longer available in 15/50. I bought a case two weeks ago.

Gamezilla

They just make that extended performance thing now. Its the same weight, but not the same oil. If you dont beleave me call mobile 1 up. I didnt beleave the guy at Orielly's. I called them up. Turns out he was right. And I have to find a new oil. Whatever is out there is the last of it. After that there is no more.

DrBobII

Go to the Mobil 1 webpage
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-nglish/M...rformance.aspx

and read the hype. While you are at it, click on the "what's the diff between old Mobil 1 and new, blah, blah, Mobil 1?"

adam c

iTrader: (2)

They are still making it, they just changed the name to "Mobil 1 extended performance". They also "improved" the formula

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...AQs.aspx#FAQs1

What is the difference between Mobil 1® Extended Performance and the currently available Mobil 1?

Mobil 1 Extended Performance formulas are designed specifically for today's longer service intervals and are guaranteed to protect for up to 15,000 miles or one year.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance has a unique formulation with boosted level of protection and performance. These formulations with the Advanced SuperSyn System contain 50 percent more SuperSyn, 36 percent more anti-wear additives, and 37 percent more cleaning agents than the current Mobil 1.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Well, I just got the word straight from the horses mouth. Apparently we've run out of oil so they can't make any more! They just don't want to scare everyone off by making it public yet. I was told I better get some good walking shoes!

POS7

Hmm... wonder what type of guarantee this is, especially seeing as how alot of us change oil at 2k miles.

CCarlisi

I wonder how all those extra additives burn :o

Gamezilla

Thats what Im wondering

Kento

It's called "marketing". Oil is like full drum; you can't add "more SuperSyn" or other component without forcing something else out. You have the base stock, and then the additives. If you're truly adding a lot more additives without taking any out, you making room for less base stock oil. And motor oil obviously can't be made from additives alone.

When they say "50% more Supersyn", all they're saying is that they're using 50% more than the amount they used before. If that amount is miniscule, say 5ml, then 50% more isn't exactly a big jump.

rynberg

Who cares about 15w50 anyway? I've been running Mobil1 10w30 for 3-1/2 years and through several seriously hot track days, most of those without my RE oil cooler setup. I don't care how you drive on the street -- it doesn't compare to continous WOT boosting for 25 minutes around a track in 95F+ heat.

My torn-apart motor shows zero signs of any wear due to oil "breakdown" or that myth of all myths -- synthetic oil sludge buildup.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I have used 15/50 Mobil 1 for years, in many rotary engines. Tri Point Engineering recommends this weight for Mobil 1 also.

rynberg

Hah, I'm surprised you even spring for the synthetics, you cheap bastard!

Yeah, I'm not saying that 10w30 is better than 15w50, but I AM saying that I've been using 10w30 for 3-1/2 years, over 30k miles, many track events - several of which were in temps above 90F, and have zero oil-related problems with my engine. In other words, I'm saying that 10w30 is perfectly good for street and track use, although having dual oil coolers doesn't hurt.

I guess you 15w50 die-hards are going to have to start ponying up and getting the fancy dancy new Mobil1 or springing for the Royal Purple (good stuff!).

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Who are you calling cheap? You won't even accept my collect calls

The "fancy dancy new Mobil1" is the same price as the old Mobil1 $4.99/qt at Napa

Gamezilla

Every place I've been to down here as moved the price up to $5.99/qt

rynberg

So essentially the whole point of this thread is that you're pissed you have to pay $4 more for an oil change?

vspecpgt

Valvoline synpower 20w50... its cheaper than mobil 1 too!

sszablya

What the hell is the point of having 15W50? That's a huge temperature range! Who needs that?

edmcguirk

API seems to be changing the specs every year but I look for an oil that is rated both SL and CF. The C rating is for diesel and it certifies that the oil has high pressure additives (even though the rotary doesn't need them).

You'll see that several synthetic oils do not carry a C rating.

Given the latest S and C ratings, you are in pretty good shape with whatever oil SAE weight that maintains oil pressure in your engine. If the oil gets so thin that the pressure drops, go to the next higher weight (or rebuild the engine). If your oil pressure looks good, try the next thinner weight and see if it drops.

I have no problem with 10W30. I would accept 0W30 but I like to stick with the old advice to go with the narrowest range that works for you.

Many studies have shown that even dino oil can safely go to 5000 miles between oil changes and the Synthetic Oil Life Test is showing that synthetic oil can easily go beyond 12,000 miles without even a filter change.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

In general you get more power and more MPG with thinner oil but you have to balance that with supposed lower protection.

ed

Kento

It's not so much that a "C" rated oil has high pressure additives; the vast majority of motor oils have such additives in their makeup. It mostly signifies that the oil has larger quantities of acid neutralizing compounds like boron and calcium to ward off the formation of sulfuric acids from the high sulfur content of diesel fuel, plus a significant amount of detergents and dispersants to counter the major soot deposits that inevitably form in diesel oil.

You're forgetting that that blow-by contamination in the FD engine dilutes the engine oil fairly quickly. I wouldn't let my oil go for 5000 miles, much less 12,000.

ghostrx7

Ehh been using 20w/50. Pretty much needed in this florida heat. Oil is thin/black even after 1500 miles. Those stock turbos like to chew up oil and spit it out big time.

rxetera

Amsoil also offers a 20W-50 racing oil:

www.amsoil.com/storefront/tro.aspx

As well as a 60W racing oil for those of you you like to run a block heater in the summer to be able to start your cars

www.amsoil.com/storefront/ahr.aspx

JBurer

I suggest reading this - http://members.rennlist.com/oil/Motor%20Oil%20101.htm

Larz

Interesting reading.

edmcguirk

Thank you, I had forgotten the details about the C rating but I did remember that it's a "good thing" at least in my opinion.

The fuel contamination should mostly exit the oil through the PCV if the engine runs at operating temperature for any significant amount of time but it's good to remember that piston tests do not directly compare to rotary results.

I change the oil more often because it is a race car but I get satisfactory results with 0W30 but I don't have the ***** to go down to the Rx8's 5W20.

ed