theorie

iTrader: (31)

ok my car was from canada so it has daytime running lights.

the lights that are always on are the front turn signals.

when the ebrake is up, the lights turn off. i guess i could just ground out the ebrake line, but then i would have that red ebrake warning light in my face all the time...

is there a fuse for the daytime running lights, or is this something else. im sick of having my front turn signals lit up all the time...i think that might be why my new turn signals melted too... :|

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

That's a very good question . I've been digging through the wiring diagrams of the shop manual figuring it out.

The CPU down by the clutch pedal has the DRL control system in it. The parking brake is one of the inputs, but the DRL module is actually in-line with the signal from the parking brake light on the dash. Just grounding the wire or something won't cut it - the light on the dash would stay illuminated.

Probably the simplest way would be to cut the two parking brake wires - a Brown/Yellow Stripe and a Blue/Green Stripe wire. Splice the two wires together on the wiring harness side. With the two wires on the CPU side, you'll need to do something - I don't know if it just needs the Blue/Green wire grounded, or if it needs that one grounded and 12v to be on the Brown/Yellow wire. BTW, the Br/Y wire is coming from the idiot light on the dash, the LG wire goes to the parking brake (L is the code for Blue, BTW ).

Section E-2 in the wiring diagram has the DRL wiring.

I think that would be enough to "fake out" the DRL module. I'd know more if I could actually play with the system - mine is a US car.

Hope this helps!
Dale

WantaV8Swap

hehe, my f-body has those damn thigns too and i melted one after 6,000 miles. like dale said, you just have to play around with the wires a bit to find which ones go where and what happens when they connect to each other/ground.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

i just checked out the diagram in my shop manual...

do you think i could just find out the voltage of the signal coming from the "headlight relay input" and then fake it onto the line so it thinks the headlights are always on?

i am guessing that might work? anyone? anyone?

theorie

iTrader: (31)

another idea:

what do you think?

jimlab

Bad idea. The red "bypass" line you drew connects the full time 12V+ red (R) wire (30A "Head"/X-01) to the DRL input White/Green (W/G) meaning your daytime running lights would more than likely be on all the time, even with the key off. Forget the red bypass.

I doubt cutting the W/G wire (labeled "Cut here") would do what you want either. I'd have to look at more than just the attached schematics to determine exactly what's coming in (and out) of the DRL Control Unit, but the yellow (Y) and green (G) wires shown on terminals 4I and 4K of plug E2-01 (in Section E-2 below) are turning on your parking lights in some manner. To ensure that cutting those wires doesn't interfere with the normal operation of those lights, you'd have to look at Section F-2 and look for the circles labeled "87" and "88".



The parking lights should "normally" only come on when the TNS (Tail, Number = license plate, and Side marker lights) relay (Section E-3) is activated by the steering wheel light switch, shown in Section E-1 below labeled "Combination Switch (Light And Dimmer)".

theorie

iTrader: (31)

so. no one knows exactly how to do this?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I think the best way to go is to fake out the E-brake circuit going to the DRL module. I think you need to just attach the two wires on the harness together, tap the Br/Y wire into switched 12v power (you could just use the power wire going to the module) and hook the LG wire to ground. The parking brake will work properly, and the DRL module will think the parking brake is up all the time, bypassing it's functionality.

Dale

theorie

iTrader: (31)

thanks. i think ill try that when my new signals come. ill post results incase anyone wants to know

jimlab

Which two wires? Arbitrarily connecting wires on the harness is not a smart thing to do.

Actually, the BR/Y wire illuminates the parking brake light in the dash when it is connected to ground by the parking brake switch or the brake fluid level sensor... (Section C-1b)

Which would negate the normal function of the parking brake switch and brake fluid level sensor and make the brake light in the dash illuminate full time.

Want the solution? It's as simple as looking at two pages and comparing the difference between US cars and Canadian cars; Section F-1 shows the US circuit, and Section F-2 shows the Canadian circuit. The only difference is that terminals 3H (Green/Brown) and 3A (Green/White) from the flasher unit don't go directly to the front turn signals on the Canadian cars.

To solve the problem, you need to disconnect plug F2-01 (shown in Section F-2) from the bottom of CPU No. 2 behind the driver's kick panel. On that plug, terminal 3H (Green/Brown) needs to be cut and connected to the wire from terminal 3C (Yellow), which should also be cut. Terminal 3A (Green/White) should be cut and connected to the wire from terminal 3D (Green), which should also be cut. This bypasses the DRL control unit altogether and doesn't interfere with any other sensor, and will duplicate the US wiring configuration as far as the parking lights are concerned.

Summary...

Plug F2-01

3A - Green/White - cut and connect to green (3D)
3B - Black
3C - Yellow - cut and connect to green/white (3A)
3D - Green - cut and connect to green/brown (3H)
3E - n/a
3F - Pink/Brown
3G - Orange
3H - Green/Brown - cut and connect to yellow (3C)

jimlab

So in other words, this...



becomes this...

jimlab

Sorry, substitute "black" for "brown"...

Plug F2-01

3A - Green/White - cut and connect to green (3D)
3B - Black
3C - Yellow - cut and connect to green/white (3A)
3D - Green - cut and connect to green/black (3H)
3E - n/a
3F - Pink/Black
3G - Orange
3H - Green/Black - cut and connect to yellow (3C)

theorie

iTrader: (31)

awesome. as soon as i get my new lights, ill try this out. thanks!!!

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Jim -

I believe the wire from the dash bulb to the parking brake goes through the DRL module. If one was to fake out the DRL module by making it think the parking brake was always up, the module needs to be bypassed so the parking brake light still works. That's why I said to splice the two wires together on the wiring harness side - it takes the DRL module out of the loop.

Dale

jimlab

The only problem with that is that the turn signal lights would stay on and no longer switch off because you removed the ground circuit which performs that function, and you still shouldn't randomly connect 12V+ to any circuit in the harness.

Bypassing the DRL with the wiring for the lights means that the DRL will continue to function normally, but without any control over the parking lights, which is what he's looking for.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The DRL module only runs the lights when the parking brake is down - they're shut off with the brake up. If you take the parking brake circuit away from the DRL module and make it think the parking brake is up, the lights should stay off.

I agree your solution is better - he originally asked about tricking it using the parking brake feature. I just wanted to clarify what I was thinking.

As far as connecting 12v to a circuit, that would just be giving the DRL module the input it was expecting from the parking brake circuit. It might not even need the input - just need to be grounded or something. Regardless, it's something I'd check out with a meter first before playing with the wiring.

Dale

jimlab

Sure, but do the turn signals work properly after you've done that?

I understand. I just felt that it was better to replicate the US system and leave the DRL module "in the dark".

Always a good policy.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

JIMLAB, YOU ARE AWESOME!

i did it like you said...works perfect. thanks man!

jimlab

No problem.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

oh crap. theres a problem...

well, i did it just like you said...and it works great...except whenever the DRL's would normally be on there is a clicking noise coming from the DRL... i didnt notice before because i had a radio on while i was working. i think its the relay trying to click on. any idea how i can fix this?

it only makes the switching noise when the ebrake is down and the parking lights & headlights are off. maybe there is some way i can fake the current to the DRL box so it thinks the lights are still on?

any idea?

jimlab

The simple answer is to do what Dale suggested, and bypass the DRL parking brake "loop".

1. Cut the LG (light green) wire (terminal 4L on plug E2-01 below) and ground the section still going to the DRL module plug. You'll have to add a section of wire to reach a good grounding point.

2. Cut the BR/Y (brown/yellow) wire (terminal 4D below) and connect it to the harness side (other end) of the LG wire you just cut in step 1.

That will allow the emergency brake and brake fluid level sensor to function normally, and fool the DRL into thinking the emergency brake is up all the time.

Sorry Dale, looks like the answer was a combination of the two. That's what I was afraid of; the DRL module not behaving like you'd "think" it should.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

finally got a chance to continue this project...

ok, so jimlab, you want me to do this:


i just tried to make the connections that you listed in your last post (like in the above image)... but there's another problem: my DRL harness does not have a BR-Y (4D) wire going into it. 4D is empty - no terminal, and no BR-Y wire to be found. i know this wire comes from the instrument panel somewhere, because i can find the other end of the BR-Y wire in the diagrams, but i dont exactly know where it is on the car...here is another scan:



see where it shows the different harnesses? the third from the right is the one where the other end of the BR-Y would go (correct?) where exactly is this harness plugged into. i cant seem to figure out where it is located.

one problem leads to another right? heh

jimlab

That's correct.

The BR/Y wire heads to plug X-06, shown in your scan below, just above the section marked DRL unit.

The second scan shows the position of plug X-06, on the end of the dash. It's labeled "blue", so it's a blue plug. It's also a bitch to get to.



I don't know what to tell you about your missing wiring.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

yeah i thought that was the unit.... i had 1/2 my dash off tonight looking for it... now that i know exactly what im looking for, i think i might be able to find it. ill post results when i find it...

Red Sambosa

15 years later.... Any results?
I honestly dont want to mess around with my wiring without confirming the results.