Me, with my 93 R1, and my friend with his 94 touring both bought the exact same clutch and flwheel. Spec stage 2, and ACT prolite. We both got them installed by the same person.

My friends clutch is much stiffer than mine and shorter . His is perfect and mine is just way to soft. MUCH Softer than stock. Smoothness is great, but i dont feel the damn thing when pushing. Also my engagment point as where the stock point was (at the very end) My friends grips pretty early which is better.

Now, my friends clutch seems to vibrate when engaging slowly and is very annoying. Its not violent or anything, but when keeping the revs low and starting off smooth their is an obvious pulsation produced by the clutch. Mine has no sign of this. (BTW we both installed a Coutner weight and fully broke in the clutches) The pulsation is kinda bad in reverse. I know the flywheel can cause this, but mine has almost no sign of this.........

So why is their such a big difference? Is their anything we can do? I want my clutch to be stiffer and grip earlier like how a performance clutch should, and my friend wants the pulsation to stop. Ive felt many ACT SS clutches and they are all 20 times stiffer than my and even my friends spec, yet the spec is supossed to handle more tq. Thanks guys.

 

I dont know if the pulsation thing is a SPEC thing because im getting the exact same pulsation thing (ESPECIALLY in reverse).

 

bump.....

 

anyone?

 

i just put a spec stage 3 in my fc and im not liking it at all right now i have mirror finish on my disc... i have 127 miles on it. the first 100 were easy going but that soft pedal i dont think that that pressure plate is putting out enough pressure im eatting that clutch like its nothing.. a pucked clutch should be threatened by 245ftlb when its max is 425. i roll onto the power on the highway and it just slips... ill try to update this post when i replace the rear main seal and stuff the clutch looked dry but you never know.... but anyways that pedal is TOOO SOFT my s2000s feels like lead weights after driving my rx7s wimpass pedal

 

yea my saabs clutch which was feather light comepared to my stock Fd clutch is heavy as hell now

I think maybe rx7 store or w.e company matched the wrong pressure plate with the disc. Overall im not happy at all and their is nothing at all.

 

Broken clutch fork maybe?

 

nope my clutch for looked fine i just dont understand how the effort can be less than a stock s2000 or a exedy stage one or a stock rx clutch and still clamp hard enough. im thinking about putting my exedy stage one pressure plate on...

 

Could it be the clutch pedal adjustment under the dash? That's the only way I can see how you describe the grabbing point to be sooner... Other than that the softness of the pressure plate can only be defective. I've seen it before, if you're concerned it's time to do an R and R. Send the pressure plate back or bring it to someone that has setup to measure the clamping force...

 

I would be concerned about a having softer pedal. That doesn't sound right to me. My ACT clutch is definitely stiffer than the stock clutch. As far as pedal height goes, you are much better off having the pedal engage closer to the top. You will have faster shifts that way with fewer misses.

 

I want to send my clutch back to Rx7store but the prob is that i didnt install my clutch. I gave it to a rx7mechanic place to do it so id have to pay 200$ for labor, and keep my car at his shop for prob 2 months untill rx7store figures out wats wrong.

 

Who installed it. Maybe his fault.

 

Is it possible you have air in the system? Have you bled the clutch slave cylinder?

 

I checked it out too...waaayyy too soft.

 

were did you take it to get it installed?

 

check the lines to make sure there is no air in them

 

After market clutch combinations tend to change the pedal height drastically, You can change that by adjusting the pedal height at the pedal. The pulsation your talking about is called chatter, my civic does it when its cold....the clutch material has to warm up before it actually grabs. It could be that the flywheel got warped also and cause the same effect. Most drag clutches slip like crazy till their warmed up. I'm not sure if any of that was beneficial but its at least a FYI and I hope you get some answers.

 

Its not chatter, i know what chatter is. When the car is fully warm it still doesi t.
Forget about the vibrations and clutch height, ect.

The main problem again is my clutch stiffness. I know for a FACT that its not correct and im going to go to my installer and talk to him about it. (im not going to give his name so dont ask) I think my pressure plate is either defective or not the correct one. the other day i was doing WOT in second and i think the clutch was slipping. might of been the tires but thats never happened before in dry weather on good asphalt. It didnt slip in 3rd gear tho so its iffy.
Overall i think this mishalf is just going to drain more money from me because of some idiots mistake.

 

yea thats why i try to do all my own work.
plus i dont want anyone touching it but me.... if possible

 

+1

 

if the fork was broken then dosent the clutch just not work at all? My clutch does work.

 

someone explain to me the symptoms of a broke cluth fork.

 

if it were bent ready to brake it may ingauge but not like normal, it would be at the very bottom of the pedal. like it bearly made it, maybe even grind.

but when mine broke it was like the clutch gave up, it would only move in the gear it broke in.. 2nd gear. couldnt get it in or out of gear.

 

The fork has 2 prongs. Mine had one prong break shortly after upgrading my clutch. Then I had the symtoms you described above for about 2 weeks. Then the other one broke - luckily it was on a lift at the time.

You may be able to see it through the inspection plate on the transmission. Mine was visable but hard to see. Have someone work the clutch while you watch through that plate.