Weird 1 rotor problem
Weird 1 rotor problem
I have a weird problem with an FD.
When the car is cold, if you start it up, it starts right up, but it runs on run rotor for about 15-20 seconds. When its hot and I start it up, it runs on 1 rotor for about 2-3 seconds.
I thought about a shot coolant seal (Flooding one rotor until it dries up) but did the champaing test and the engine is fine. I am guessing that the coils are ok since its always the same symptom and the car runs fine after +/-20 seconds (or 2-3 when hot). Leaky injectoprs would not be the case in my opinion since the car doesn't smoke black at any point.
Any ideas what can cause this?
Spec.
When the car is cold, if you start it up, it starts right up, but it runs on run rotor for about 15-20 seconds. When its hot and I start it up, it runs on 1 rotor for about 2-3 seconds.
I thought about a shot coolant seal (Flooding one rotor until it dries up) but did the champaing test and the engine is fine. I am guessing that the coils are ok since its always the same symptom and the car runs fine after +/-20 seconds (or 2-3 when hot). Leaky injectoprs would not be the case in my opinion since the car doesn't smoke black at any point.
Any ideas what can cause this?
Spec.
I had a similar problem with my rebuild. A seal was getting stuck when the car was off. After things warmed up, it would free up and start sealing properly again. After a while, it finally got stuck for good.
I'm not saying this is your problem, but a possibility.
I'm not saying this is your problem, but a possibility.
how old are your plugs? I was having that problem due to flooding, NGK B9egv's made a big difference, and a twin power makes them fire in anything. That, and fixing the flooding issue.
after my rebuild i had a very similar problem.
as it turned out, it was a combination of two things:
1) to bypass the throttle body AWS thermal switch, we simply capped both inlet/outlet nipples on the motor. well, the rear one was leaking, causing coolant to drip down the side of the motor and pool where the LIM bolts up to the side of the block.
2) the rear bolts on the LIM somehow loosened up, allowing the coolant to suck into the intake port of the rear rotor.
once we figured this out, we ran a hose to connect the coolant outlet/inlets (instead of capping them) and we tightened up the LIM.
for awhile, it seemed as if it was running on only the front rotor...
in your situation, if you're not experiencing smoke out the tailpipe (coolant smoke that is) than i would first check your plugs/coils.
if it is a stuck seal, maybe running some water though the intake (not coolant!) might help to loosen it up? i think this works for some people...but thats in situations where the motor has carbon build up.
as it turned out, it was a combination of two things:
1) to bypass the throttle body AWS thermal switch, we simply capped both inlet/outlet nipples on the motor. well, the rear one was leaking, causing coolant to drip down the side of the motor and pool where the LIM bolts up to the side of the block.
2) the rear bolts on the LIM somehow loosened up, allowing the coolant to suck into the intake port of the rear rotor.
once we figured this out, we ran a hose to connect the coolant outlet/inlets (instead of capping them) and we tightened up the LIM.
for awhile, it seemed as if it was running on only the front rotor...
in your situation, if you're not experiencing smoke out the tailpipe (coolant smoke that is) than i would first check your plugs/coils.
if it is a stuck seal, maybe running some water though the intake (not coolant!) might help to loosen it up? i think this works for some people...but thats in situations where the motor has carbon build up.
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