Water Wetter. . .
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Water Wetter. . .
My new radiator and stuff is in the works of installation. Is Water Wetter good to go with, or are there any problems with rotaries. I wouldn't think there would be any problem, but just wanted to see if anybody had any input.
#2
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cheaper race car tech replacement for water wetter is a few drops of dawn or dove dish soap. It will do the same thing breaks the surface tention in the water. want a unsecnted soap thos less impurities then
#6
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If you are a fan of keeping silicates and phosphates out of your coolant system, then you don't want water wetter. It's full of silicates. IIRC Neo Keep Cool is a better product to go with there, or you can use the Redline Water Wetter for Diesel's, which for some reason is silicate free.
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#8
Originally Posted by ErnieT
The fact that it accelerates the deteoration of your coolant seals is reason enough not to use it.
#9
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Originally Posted by ErnieT
The fact that it accelerates the deteoration of your coolant seals is reason enough not to use it.
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Ive heard from plenty of people that its awesome. Works as advertised, lowered temps by up to 20 degrees. And it doest just break the surface tension, its a corrosion inhibitor. Thats the biggest problem with just straight water, youll get elctrolysis between the housings and irons and your coolant starts to look rusty. Cosworth has thier own stuff, as does Royal Purple.
#11
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It does not lower temps 20 degrees, and is totally unnecessary in an FD with a proper cooling system. I'm running around the track in 90+ degree Virginia heat and never cap 100C.
I don't know if anyone has any concrete "proof" that it deteriorates water seals because nobody has a lab to perform tests, but I've heard more than one respected engine builder say they think it does... just like the extended life antifreeze is supposed to.
I don't know if anyone has any concrete "proof" that it deteriorates water seals because nobody has a lab to perform tests, but I've heard more than one respected engine builder say they think it does... just like the extended life antifreeze is supposed to.
Originally Posted by Tanjo
Ive heard from plenty of people that its awesome. Works as advertised, lowered temps by up to 20 degrees. And it doest just break the surface tension, its a corrosion inhibitor. Thats the biggest problem with just straight water, youll get elctrolysis between the housings and irons and your coolant starts to look rusty. Cosworth has thier own stuff, as does Royal Purple.
#13
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Originally Posted by Nuvolari
I saw one KDR had in WW, and it did deteriorated the water seal.
#14
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Originally Posted by wilson94T
If you are a fan of keeping silicates and phosphates out of your coolant system, then you don't want water wetter. It's full of silicates. IIRC Neo Keep Cool is a better product to go with there, or you can use the Redline Water Wetter for Diesel's, which for some reason is silicate free.
Your common Ethylene Glycol based antifreeze contains both silicates and phosphates as corrosion inhibiters, so don't see how that would be a problem.
#15
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Mazda coolant to my knowledge is not free of silicates. (For example, Nissans need silicate free coolant). I also see no reason to assume water wetter would attack coolant seals. I think that old coolant (or tap water) and high temps are the real evil to coolant seals.
I used water wetter and it made no difference in my water temps that I could see. However, if you cooling system is working properly, the temps won't change since the stock fans switch on/off to keep the coolant temps in a 180F-210F window with a 2nd Gen thermoswitch. You'd only see a difference in a situation where you're pushing above the thermoswitch temp, so if your water temps are always well regulated at the high end the water wetter won't do anything for you.
Dave
I used water wetter and it made no difference in my water temps that I could see. However, if you cooling system is working properly, the temps won't change since the stock fans switch on/off to keep the coolant temps in a 180F-210F window with a 2nd Gen thermoswitch. You'd only see a difference in a situation where you're pushing above the thermoswitch temp, so if your water temps are always well regulated at the high end the water wetter won't do anything for you.
Dave
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Mazda coolant to my knowledge is not free of silicates. (For example, Nissans need silicate free coolant). I also see no reason to assume water wetter would attack coolant seals. I think that old coolant (or tap water) and high temps are the real evil to coolant seals.
I used water wetter and it made no difference in my water temps that I could see. However, if you cooling system is working properly, the temps won't change since the stock fans switch on/off to keep the coolant temps in a 180F-210F window with a 2nd Gen thermoswitch. You'd only see a difference in a situation where you're pushing above the thermoswitch temp, so if your water temps are always well regulated at the high end the water wetter won't do anything for you.
Dave
I used water wetter and it made no difference in my water temps that I could see. However, if you cooling system is working properly, the temps won't change since the stock fans switch on/off to keep the coolant temps in a 180F-210F window with a 2nd Gen thermoswitch. You'd only see a difference in a situation where you're pushing above the thermoswitch temp, so if your water temps are always well regulated at the high end the water wetter won't do anything for you.
Dave
#17
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^exactly. My old parts manager runs it in his DD 11.9 1/4 Dakota 5.9 R/T. He doesnt run a t-stat (some kind of R/t trick, fools the ECU into leaning it out I think), and he swears by it. Some people are all about it, others not. I run it, but mostly just cause I live in a tropical enviroment and dont need coolant, and I would run straight water if not for the corrosion aspect.
#18
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Originally Posted by DamonB
I've always heard this but never seen it proven. Where can I find some info?
I lost my rear coolant seal maybe a month after putting in RLWW. I cant prove it was the WW but Im never running it again. For all I know the seal was going already and the WW just looks guilty.
Once again, no proof but a strong correlation(sort of, no need for a stats lesson ).
BTW, it did nothing to my temps.
Last edited by Buzzardsluck; 10-10-06 at 08:12 PM.
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i just relocated my rad. strait up for the install of a front mount. i added water wetter with all new coolant and drove about 500 miles this last weekend. i was crusing and racing. my temps were at 180-200 and 210 for most of those miles. only 3 times did my fans kick on and the temps instantly dropped. those times i was in traffic. i have no cooling mods at all. stock rad, caps, ast, ect. i can't tell you if water wetter helped or not. but i did just loose all my coolant when a hose on the ast popped off over night. i refilled with out water wetter and drove around and got the same temps.
#22
used it in my old 13B motor and it did nothing to lower temps. Your t-stat and fans will determine your coolant temps not ww.
IMO if you have a problem with high temps focus on fixing your cooling system.
I think its a waste of money.
IMO if you have a problem with high temps focus on fixing your cooling system.
I think its a waste of money.
#23
FWIW, I've used diesel water wetter in my 98 4Runner for 7 years with no ill effects nor any obvious improvements. It was a recommendation along with an organic corrosion inhibitor additive by an old gearhead and legend in the 4Runner mod community. It was cheap enough when I bought it that I picked up two bottles and I haven't yet used them completely. Not sure whether I will get it again. I guess I'll see when I stop using it if there is any change.
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From what Ive read and heard, it not only is supposed to lower temps, but help the water change temp faster, with the whole surface tension thing. So its supposed to warm up faster, and cool down faster.
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Wait, WW is supposed to reduce temps?
I thought it was just used to prevent water from corroding the engine/radiator...for when you run a larger percentage of water.
I thought it was just used to prevent water from corroding the engine/radiator...for when you run a larger percentage of water.