Will be changing from upgraded SMIC to a V-mount setup. Keeping AC is a must. My car has back seats so relocating the battery to a bin isnt possible. Trunk mount requires cutting the carpet or plastics, and behind the plastic next to rear washer bottle is too inconvienient.

Is it possible to run a V-mount, with AC, and keep a smaller battery in the factory location (roughly)? Seems like it would be a tough fit. The GReddy V-mount is the most appealing setup and is designed to work with factory AC components, however only one of AC or stock battery location will fit, not both. I see a couple images of the KnightSport V-mount in FDs with stock battery location and AC.... Is this discontinued? Is it even any good? Can you modify the GReddy kit to work with AC and battery?

gooob

 

You're going to have to fold on something. You can't have everything you're asking for and use the greddy kit. Relocating the battery to the trunk will be the easiest thing to compromise on. The jp3 mounting solution seems to best fit your requirements. "Inconvenient" I would disagree but it gives you the most unintrusive install while leaving you with a fully intact interior.

 

I understand I’ll likely have to go with JP3 or similar trunk mount, but the mount itself is a bit costly, as is the battery. Probably CAD$1k or more for both. And if I’m paying that much for a battery I’ll be putting a tender on it which requires removing and installing the plastic every time…

Just checking if anyone may have found a solution.

 

I have working A/C, Miata battery in stock location and Rotary Works v-mount.

It can be done.. just gotta be creative.
Some info in my build thread.

Steve

 

With the installation of the breaker, the tender is not necessary. Switching the breaker turns the battery into a shelf life ambient state of idle charge (a term I just made up). Most lithium batteries should give you about a year of idle charge. The xspower li-s680 and braille g20 does at least.

You don't necessarily HAVE to buy the jp3 solution although convenient. You can replicate the concept with anything. The 2 batteries I listed are very small and extremely powerful. They would very comfortably fit behind the panel and you could mount the breaker so that you just need to lift the carpet to access it. So long as the car doesn't go 13+ months without being started then there's no need to access the battery for maintenance. Even if you did, the center panel simply lifts up since it has no hardware, it's just clips.

If not using the greddy kit or making something yourself, you have a lot more options with keeping the battery in the engine bay. When buying a kit though, you're at the mercy of its intended use.

 

If you choose to install the lithium battery in the trunk, you'll need a lithium battery charger. CTEK offers an easy-connect feature, allowing you to keep it plugged in for convenient charging.





Also, I have the Greddy Vmount and Jp3 does make a relocation kit for the front. I honestly prefer it in the hood, although it's probably fine but running a thick hot wire under your car for a trunk battery makes me feel uneasy.

 

Appreciate those who have mentioned us. We have a front kit that would work with an Odyssey PC680 or AntiGravity ATX20 lithium battery in the front and was designed for the Greddy Vmount. There are some who have gotten it to work with the OEM AC dryer though it would require careful bending of the hardlines. An alternative would be one of our AC line kits that converts the system to an full R134a kit and gets rid of the OEM dryer. We have a blog post on our site that explains our battery related components.

https://jp3motorsports.com/blogs/new...ted-components

 

You’re probably going to have to make an onlyfans if you get the AC kit, antigravity battery, battery relocation kit, rx8 compressor, rx8 dryer, and the Vmount.

 

in the FAQ thread, there is a link to a thread about battery relocation to the bins that is a lot cheaper than the JP3 kit. The JP3 kit is a great option though since it was already thought out vs a DIY approach.

 

This is a back seat car. There are no bins

 

I’ve got the full JP3/ Greddy set up with the front battery kit for the ATX20, and AC kit. Can confirm it’s legit. Cold AC in the heat of Houston and water temps that don’t leave me feeling sick sitting in traffic (still can’t take my eye off the gauge though).

 

Good to know about the lithium-specific battery tender / charger. I would prefer to keep under the hood as well, but looking more and more like trunk mount is in my future.

 

No doubt. Really wasnt looking forward to spending the money on a comepletely new AC system when my existing AC components all work fine.

This would be my ideal steup, but I just cant swallow the extra cost for the RX8 and JP3 AC system components. Since my car is already R134A, doesnt make much sense to make the swtich when everything is already working fine. I find I'm more of a windows-down driver in the summer. Temps here rarely cross 90F in the summer. AC on the highway is nice though.

 

You're going to have to modify the ac system to go v mount. Trying to bend and shape the stock stuff to work just isn't a good move. You're really really going to have to fold on something to have what you're looking for. You can't have the cake AND the bakery.

 

Isn’t the GReddy Vmount designed to work with factory AC?

 

For rhd yes and it's also not meant to keep the battery in the engine bay

 

Perfect, I’m RHD

Edit: Yes I knew right away from seeing photos that it wasn’t designed for stock battery location. Although when I saw the JP3 battery setup I thought it could be possible to make it work with battery and AC.

Interesting the Knightsports Vmount appears to work with both as the intercooler is farther over to the right. Maybe they’re able to have it positioned this way because the core thickness is 64mm rather than GReddy core is 100mm.

 

Side note on core thickness - there are diminishing results on going to a thicker core - thermal efficiency decreases as thickness increases. This is because the air gets warmer and airflow decreases the thicker the core.

On racecar radiators w/o a fan, thinner is known to be much better in all respects.

 

The KS required a shorter battery with their tray.

 

The HKS v-mount could be considered. This is what I have.

It retains a smaller battery (I use a 151r) in the front and it retains the stock A/C by moving the dryer and condenser. Replacement hard lines are supplied, but they didn't quite work for me. (They're made for DENSO units and there's a lip on the line connections that's not present on my stock lines. It might have something to do with an update to the later model JDM cars.)

Otherwise, all the brackets and the battery mount is there.

To make it seamless you need:
1. 151r or similar battery
2. Cut and extend the wires for the positive terminal/fuse block assembly
3. Extend the wires for the radiator fans. Greddy sells a plug and play extension harness.
4. Figure out the A/C lines

1. Modify/weld new connections to the HKS replacement lines.
2. Get some custom soft lines made with the proper connection.
3. Buy the JP3 line kit and swith to an RX8 compressor and condenser/drier combo. This is what I did because my OEM compressor was seized.

 

I did consider the HKS Vmount, however I’m not a fan of how it looks in the bay and I don’t think an intercooler of that size is needed for my usage. My car is a 1999 so perhaps the AC lines would work for me

Appreciate the info though, will keep it saved and pass it along if someone I know is considering the HKS

 

You could also get the greddy Vmount kit without intercooler and just run a custom intercooler set up that fits your needs of battery in stock location. You can buy the greddy kit in many different figurations.

 

If you are RHD and are 99 spec then its easy, you can buy the later model greddy setup, (suited for R134a fittings) then you can buy the JP3 kit and bend the AC dryer lines (which you have to do with the greddy kit anyways) then figure out how you will mount the dryer, since where greddy want you to mount it will hit the battery..
Or you could make your own battery tray setup (as I am going to do)
I'm based in NZ and the USD and postage for us makes the JP3 stuff prohibitively expensive.