updated! fuse box relocation pics and more
#1
updated! fuse box relocation pics and more
For anyone who missed the first thread here it is.... click me
Well I've been putting my car back together slowly over the last few weeks. Once I get the DP back from the welder I should be able to start it up. Only problem will be getting my car re-registered.
While the engine was out I painted various parts, and replaced whatever needed to be.
Alright enough typing. Here is what everyone wants to see.
Before:
making progress:
almost done:
Well I've been putting my car back together slowly over the last few weeks. Once I get the DP back from the welder I should be able to start it up. Only problem will be getting my car re-registered.
While the engine was out I painted various parts, and replaced whatever needed to be.
Alright enough typing. Here is what everyone wants to see.
Before:
making progress:
almost done:
Last edited by Scrub; 05-30-05 at 09:11 PM.
#3
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Very nice!!
Are you leaving the diagnostics box hanging there, or do you plan on extending that to the rear bin?
I have yet to finish mine. Only thing i've finished is the harness going to the alt., starter, etc. etc., and extending all the wires. I have yet to solder them back to the relay/fuse boxes though. Hoping I can finish it this week, so I can hook up the Microtech next.
With the diagnostics box, and all the relay/fuse boxes, there was like 40+ wires!
-Alex
Are you leaving the diagnostics box hanging there, or do you plan on extending that to the rear bin?
I have yet to finish mine. Only thing i've finished is the harness going to the alt., starter, etc. etc., and extending all the wires. I have yet to solder them back to the relay/fuse boxes though. Hoping I can finish it this week, so I can hook up the Microtech next.
With the diagnostics box, and all the relay/fuse boxes, there was like 40+ wires!
-Alex
Last edited by TT_Rex_7; 05-30-05 at 10:28 PM.
#6
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Originally Posted by jimlab
What is the canister for and who makes it?
-Alex
Last edited by TT_Rex_7; 05-30-05 at 11:19 PM.
#7
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Since he has the factory cap on the filler neck, i'd say it's an AST. No clue on who makes it though.
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#8
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Originally Posted by jimlab
While I agree that it is probably an AST, that sure as heck isn't a factory cap. Look closer... billet.
-Alex
Edit: Second thought, it may not be an AST. Look at the first picture. That picture was taken before he changed/took apart the car. I don't see an AST, and one line is going to the overflow, and the other looks to go to the radiator. (instead of plugged) I thought you had to use a diffrent cap when removing the AST?!
Last edited by TT_Rex_7; 05-30-05 at 11:53 PM.
#9
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
I'm speaking of the cap on the filler neck. The one with the yellow sticker.
#10
I wasn't aware of a BBQ, but if I get it all back together in time then I'm in.
Jim,
OBX makes the can. It's not that nice of a piece, but it gets the job done for what I need it for. It costs about $65. I got rid of the AST a long time ago. This little can is the resivoir for the rotary aviation MOP block adapter. Right now it's full with Idemitsu premix. The only problem is there is no vent to allow the fluid to flow freely. I will have to get a crank case breather and have a small pipe welded onto the filler cap.
-Dan
Edit:
the next step is getting rid of all that extra IC piping by re-welding the inlet pipe directly towards the tubo.
Jim,
OBX makes the can. It's not that nice of a piece, but it gets the job done for what I need it for. It costs about $65. I got rid of the AST a long time ago. This little can is the resivoir for the rotary aviation MOP block adapter. Right now it's full with Idemitsu premix. The only problem is there is no vent to allow the fluid to flow freely. I will have to get a crank case breather and have a small pipe welded onto the filler cap.
-Dan
Edit:
the next step is getting rid of all that extra IC piping by re-welding the inlet pipe directly towards the tubo.
Last edited by Scrub; 05-30-05 at 11:52 PM.
#11
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Originally Posted by jimlab
Did you even look at the picture I referenced in my post?
-Alex
#13
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
I don't think you read my post very well. I stated SINCE the factory cap is still on the filler neck, the canister is probably an AST.
Then you went on to say that the cap is made from solid stock, or billet as you called it, which it is, on the canister, not on the filler neck.
#14
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by Scrub
OBX makes the can.
#15
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Originally Posted by jimlab
And I agreed. Did you notice?
Originally Posted by jimlab
And it was the canister I was asking about, wasn't it? Once again, did you read my post?
Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Since he has the factory cap on the filler neck, i'd say it's an AST. No clue on who makes it though.
-Alex
#17
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Now read that again Jim. It clearly states which cap I was talking about.
Damn internet... can't understand anybody any more.
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Originally Posted by jimlab
Thanks! I'm just interested in the cap. I need a small diameter billet cap and neck to use for an oil fill neck for my valve covers, preferably without anyone's logo stenciled on it.
-Alex
#19
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by Scrub
I actually don't think the can itself is billet. I believe it's steel with some kind of paint over it. The cap on the other hand may be billet. Hope thats helpful
#20
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
I could machine a neck and cap from solid stock if your interested. Whatever design you want/need. Just send me a PM if your interested.
#21
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Originally Posted by jimlab
Threads and all? O-ring/gasket relief?
-Alex