Read all the threads, understand the risks, etc. I assume the objective in blocking the pressure plate against the bell housing is to keep everything pushed forward, toward the nose of the car. Yes, I understand why. Thru the inspection plate hole I see the flywheel and the clutch cover, their tight together.

Can someone please give some detail as to where the blocking is to be placed? Really appreciate this info from someone who has actually done it and not to be cryptic but I can do without the "Why bother with the pulley" and "You obviously don't know enough rotaries to do this job", etc. That stuff really gets old in a hurry.

 

The way I do it is as follows. I jack up the car as high in the front as I can .Remove the inspection plate .In that hole I wedge a crow bar so the bar is pushing the preasure plate foward .I wrap a chain around the hook of the crow bar attached with a nut and bolt .The other end of the chain goes the a brace in the rear with a long threaded bolt .I pull the chain tight with a nut on the long threaded bolt . I have done several with out having a bearing slip out of place .To check to see if the bearing is in place you can put the pully on and take the crank to pulley measurement .I will not go into that as everyone knows how to check this and what the measure should be .

 

Unorthodox has changed the design of the pulley so you dont have to remove the hub anymore. Its just 4 bolts and very easy to install.

Jason

 

Suddenly this mod just got more attractive to me, lol.

I am running no p/s or a/c, so use only one of the stock main crank pulleys. I wonder if this will really show any benefit on my setup?

 

thats some good news here, thanks

 

Goodfella ,, No PS or AC and the smaller pulley you will not feel much differance , but the water pump will not cavatate or slip in the water and your alt will not put out as well if you use a larger pulley on it to get better belt contact on the water pump pulley .I run a small pulley on the alt and an idler that I made that bolts in where the air pump was . Your buddy Steve has seen it when he stayed here over night working on his 3 rotor . As you know every little bit helps ,several small bits add up to a larger bit . So do it ,at our power level we have already spent a good amount of time making parts and working ,so go ahead . Every bit adds to the mix.

 

So the stock water pump will cavitate? How much of a reduction in pulley size would fix this?

Any recommended setups if I don't want to sacrifice alternator prformance?

 

I have the greddy pulley set (ALT, WP) along with an Unorthodox Main Pulley and so far it has been working fine.

 

Monkman33 ,, I can not give you a size ,maybe some of the people who race can tell you . I do know they can cavitate . When my son and I made my pulleys ,alt,wp,ps,ac clutch cover and the idler pulley ,I made the water pump pulley as large as will fit in the space , bigger than the after market ones I have seen by alittle bit .I do not over heat on the street .