So I didn't know the metal part behind the front wheel was kind of soft and I jacked it up there. Now it's smashed in and was wondering if it was possible to "unsmash" it somehow? Thanks.

 

I'm def. not trying to rub it in or anything...but just a word of advice

- Cars have "jack points" designated to be strong enough to be jacked up from. Use them.

- When you start to jack up the car, if you hear some cracking noise, that's the area surrounding the jack starting to give. Let it down, and find another spot.

- When push comes to shove, you can always use a non-stock jacking point like the frame of the car. It's rock solid. No worries there.

Just my $0.02. Good luck.

 

Another thing I often do is put a foot long 2x4 on top of the jack. That distributes the weight so even if you end up not on a jack point things will still probably be ok.

 

i can never find a good jack point on the car other than (I think) the lower control arms

 

I'm assuming you are talking about the under side of the front fender, cuz that it the only point weak enough to bend. You can try taking off the fender and hammering it out from behind. You have to be very careful, don't just start hammering away, get a hammer and dolly and do softly enough where you don't damage the paint. I do body work, so it probably sounds easier to me. You can always take it to a body shop.

 

I know that the stock jack has a groove in it for the hard point but where is the best place for a shop jack to go?

 

Same spot. And I always put a towel on the metal "cup" to prevent damaging anything.

 

nice, thank you speed.

 

hmm...i'm not talking about any part of the fender but the actual underside of the body where its all rough and grayish looking...right behind the mounting point for the stock jack. That is where I placed the shop jack. Can this be repaired somehow? It's quite an eyesore to me unfortunately.

 

I saw how ideal that *looked* it being very accessible and all. But I wasn't sure if it could take the weight or not, so I decided against it.

Neal, Speedking has a great idea, but for cars like mine (lowered and/or w/ body work) it's impossible to get a professional jack underneath the car. It won't clear it. So what I have to do is take the stock jack to either mounting point (front or rear), and jack it up some. Then I have clearance for the professional jack. Inward a bit, you can catch the actual frame of the car. I jack it up from there, but from an angle. That way, I can place a jackstand in the stock jack location, which I know can handle the weight, plus it's on the outside, leaving me w/ lots of room in the middle. Yea, it's a lot of going back and forth, but a) I have no other options, and b) you should NEVER work on or under the car while it's on the jack. Jackstands are a MUST.

 

Ramy: Have you seen one of these "low profile" jacks?

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=77715

This should clear just about anything, including your car.

 

yeah, thats why I have to find a place to work on my car....seeing a car on jackstands is fine-able from my condo assoc. I will need it for replacing the hub on my wheel.

 

There's no way to pull that out so you'll have to fill it in w/ Bondo and touch up the area.

 

damn...are you serious? i dont see a lump in my floorboard so i guess it's not that big of a deal but i'm pretty **** about things. there's no way a body shop can cut that part out or something and reweld it??

 

sup gene nice forum name haha

it can be fixed bro dont stress

call me up so we can arrage for ur car to be fixed here in palmdale if u wanna drive that is

mike

 

I'm very serious. A friend did the same and put a circle indentation where he jacked up his car in the same spot.

I'm sure a body shop could do that, but IMO it's not worth the expense or trouble, however, that's up to you.

 

A puller used in body shops can do the trick. You will have to drill a small hole in the deepest part of the damage for the puller to screw into and pull the metal out. Then cover the hole and apply undercar rust protection.

 

cool mike, ill have to take a pic and show it to you then so one of your guys can fix it for me. i'll hit you up soon.

 

thanks...this is what mike (rotorboy) also suggested so I know it can be done.

 

Ohhh...I HATE you Gil lol. NOW you tell me?!?! Oh well...having 2 jacks can't hurt, can it??

Check this one out BTW.... http://www.jackxchange.com/products/71240A.cfm
And I thought the one you showed me was expensive!

Mike, that's rough man....no reason to call him out like that lol. Ever stop to think WHY he's on this username??

 

I looked into that jack a few years ago and from the dimensions I got it still will not reach the subframe without hitting the undertray. (My car is lowered with Eibach Pro Linears)

You may want to look at http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html the DK13HLQ should do the trick. I tried to save some money and get the DK20 but it's not quite low/long enough so I still have to drive onto a 2X4. Still a nice jack though.

 

How about the front of the engine cradle or under the differential?

 

Yeah, they suck. No reach.

Try these: http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html

 

I don't want to hurt your feelings either but I am confused as to why people have problems figuring out where to jack up a car. The frame rail is where you put the jack its that simple it fits right into the ******* top of the jack. My friend did the same thing in his supra and his jack went through his floorboard and made a hole and broke the deadpedal. He's polish whats your excuse? He got it rigged by a body shop that pounded it from the inside and then filled the whole area with epoxy or something. Still some moisture gets in from that area and his floormat gets wet. I suggest not working on your car any more as your lack of knowledge will end up costing you more than a rotary shop would charge.

-Yanni (*******)

 

It doesn't have to be expensive to get a jack under the front end.

First, the jack has to be kinda low, but mostly you need a lot of reach. Most low jacks don't have much reach before they get taller.

Second, get some 2x12s and 1x12s. Cut the 2x12s at 18", and the 1x12 at 24". Attach them with the 2x12 on top so the extra 1x12 length is the front of the ramp. If you wanna get fancy add something to the far end of the 2x12 so you don't drive off of it. The extra length of the 1x12 will keep it from popping out before the car rolls onto it.

Now you just stop the car 1-1/2 short of final position, stick the ramps in, roll the car another 18", and sneak a regular $100 sears jack just past the underbelly tray and supporting the crossmember.

Dave