Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The owners manual also says that synthetic oil is bad.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, it doesn't happen with the stock twins so just move on...

TT's may be helpful for non-water cooled aftermarket turbos, just not with the stockers.

rynberg

I SAY AGAIN...who shuts off their car immediately after a drag run? No one. Ever. You finish the run and pull it back around. Period. 20 to 30 seconds of non-boosting is fine.

Nope. You pull of onto the exit ramp and park. That's at least 10-15 seconds of no-boosting (that you were likely to be boosting THAT much on the freeway coming up to an exit in the first place).

So, of the two examples you could come up with, one will NEVER happen, and the other is a moot issue.

Like Mahjik said, in several years, he's never heard of anyone having turbos damaged by oil coking. Not one single person. I have been on the board for over 3-1/2 years and I've never heard of a single person either.

TT = pointless mod. Even worse, it's another little box to cheese up the interior with.

Railgun

Since this thread is going to complete hell and the original poster is no longer making sense and trying to kick a dead horse, I thought I'd make some observations.

WOOHOO for using the correct spelling! I'm sure you've seen how many have used M-U-T-E in place of that.


Eh...maybe. Mine's in the crotch vent, so out of sight, out of mind. Same with the boost controller. It's behind the radio bin.

And to the original poster...you're trying to impose your opinions on everyone here. You'd have better luck shitting out a diamond from eating a lump of coal.

web777

I'm not trying to impose anything on anybody. I was trying to give reasons why a TT will be good. Everybody brought good points and learned some stuff (isn't what this forum is all about?)

Quite honestly I have never been have such a negative experience on this forum. This is my first post on the 3rd gen forum since I have 3rd gen now. I'm not a newbee either. I've been driving rotaries since 1990 and turbo'd it in 92. I don't know if I should post on here anymore because everybody jumps on you.

d0 Luck

yep. prettyboy web's got a point. he's simply asking and LOOKING for viable responses from people here without any disrespect, and you guys bombard with these ridiculous 'obvious' answers that he may not have been so for him.

i guess everyone here is "mr. know it all" ....?

RotoricanNY

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, he has a point, also, there are many reason why to use TT, lest say, your speeding and a cop pulls you over...are you really gonna drive slowly for 30 secs....also...this happened to me and my friends...cops pulled us over for loud muffler, so when we left my friend did a small stand still and we took off hard, went up a hill doing like 70, stop on top and parked before the cops came.....I mean if you ever do that you do need a TT, also I grew up in PR and for many people their house are no longer than 2 mins off of a highway, but again, many people in the city, with many streetv lights and coners and kids playin so they don't need them....but if you ask me, if you need them, life saver, if you don't scrap and a waste of cash.

- Nil

rynberg

Yeah, and those responses have been given several times, the last thread about this was less than a month ago.

Seeing as how this thread was started with the opening post of -- "why do so many people here hate turbo timers? -- one would assume that in discovering that so many people here think they are worthless, that he would have read WHY we thought that way. In defense of the timer, he's thrown up a couple of ridiculous situations that have already been shot down.

This is yet another case of some one who doesn't even own an FD (or recently got one?) trying to tell experienced owners of several years "what's up". What gets really frustrating is when we DO tell posters like this why something is, and they still don't listen -- despite not having ANY personal experience themselves with the issue at hand.

Let's clear this up right now, since a few people don't seem to be getting it -- THERE ARE NO COKING PROBLEMS WITH THE STOCK FD TWIN TURBOS. NO ONE HERE HAS EVER EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM OR HEARD OF SOMEONE WHO HAS. Are we clear on that now?

Now let's get back to talking about how loud various BOVs are and looking at pics of ugly-*** body kits.

7racer

I think he got reasonable responses for the question he asked. He already knew it was a "hot" topic and yet still stirred the pot with a ridiculous scenerio about rushing home to take a crap! If you consider that, I think the less than ridiculous responses were MORE than appropriate.

If you look at his original post he never asked why turbo timers were considered useless in our cars. He just tried to state his opinion that is opposite what has been debated ad nauseum on the forum.

Instead he titles the thread "turbo timers...are not useless" asserting his opinion.
And in his first post, obviously knew it was a hot topic by acknowledging that "so many people here hate turbo timers".

If turbo timers really aren't useless in water coooled FD's then post some pics of coked oil or temperature readings of oil in the trubo housing after 20mins of idle vs 1 mile of cruising home...not some mega toilet emergency scenerio. Post some data or pics or something to add to the knowledge...he obviously did his research as he knew what the prevalent feeling was on the forum so why stir the pot?

Instead, he posts totally ridiculous scenerios to justify his turbo timer. If he wants justification for driving 100mph from the highway and shutting his car off, or draggin it at the strip and immediated shutting the car down or better yet....rushing home because of diarrhea than GREAT this guy definitely needs a turbo timer.


but for the 99% of the other people in this world that drive the FD normally and have normal bowel movements....we don't need one.

web777

I did not want this thread to come to this. I apologize if I stirred the pot (didn't mean to). I did not know know this was such a hot topic here. I've searched this subject and half the time they say there is no oil coking and the half says they either idle it themselves or drive easy before shut down. I honestly wanted to know if I were to shut down would there be any damage period. Mahjik says no but Rynberg says he wouldn't because of turbo concerns?? I bring theses hypothetical scenarios because I wanted to know in extreme cases what would happen. Sorry for asking.

I tried to bring humor in the first post to break the ice. But anyways no need to argue this any further.

BlueRex

If you read the beginning of the thread you will see that at first people did respond with sensible and polite arguments as to why his statements were incorrect. It was only after he kept pushing an illogical point that it got ugly.

Chaosx1

What about BNR Stage 3s?

Railgun

Perhaps you missed the part where he said STOCK?

And from what I've read, and maybe this has changed, coking on those stage 3s should be the least of one's worries.

PVerdieck

As far as I am concerned, turbo timers allow you to heat up the engine before the car shuts down. That is something I don't want. I want the entire engine bay to cool down, turbos included.

While the car is parked, there is no air flow over the radiator. So now you are running the car, which is already warm or even hot. The water temp will go up, as will the oil temp. Therefore the engine bay will heat up. I see this as a stupid thing to do. I see no reason to bake the contents of my engine bay for an additional 5 minutes before shutting down.

Yes, I take it easy before I park.

As for the A/F gauge, off the stock 02 sensor, I consider that worthless. If one truly believed the readings they would never driver their FD, given how the number is bouncing all over the place.

GOOFYROTOR

I agree! That's why i say, just have fun in here. A lot of people in here are just DIY.coms
Moreover, everyone has "Their Way" of tying shoe laces!, their way of treating women,their way of handling problems,......etc

This is why some FD's have more problems than others.

Hyperite

Ok, my turn.

A turbo timer may not be NECESSARY, but unless something is otherwise wrong with your car, it won't HURT anything. I have one, HKS I think. Usually just let it run for 30 seconds. My reasoning is not scientific, it is not because of anything I've read, just how I feel. If i turn the car right off after driving, I hear a lot more of the sounds metal makes expanding and contracting than if I let it idle for a bit. Why I think that's a good reason, I don't know.

Air fuel. Running off the narrowband sensor is useless, don't let anybody convince you otherwise. The different temperatures of your exhaust at different run times will make you think you're good, bad, or fine, when you could be either of the other two. Look at a temperature/A/F/voltage graph. On that note, I have mine connected to my wideband. I use my laptop for tuning, but it's still nice to see on a gauge if everything is nice and full of gas.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Unless they remove the cooling system of the stock housing, it's the same (i.e. water cooled).

BNR's are just upgraded stock twins.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

web777,

Any damage from doing a hard run and then shutting off the car would happen in other places before doing any real damage to the turbos. i.e. if you run the car hard on the track to elevate your coolant temps, you shouldn't just kill the car as once the car stops coolant isn't really moving. Then you end up with localized boiling and little temp rise until the heat is able to start radiating out of the engine bay.

When at the track, I do cool down laps before coming to stop. However, that's not for cooling the turbos; it's for cooling the engine and the brakes.

The *best* way to cool anything on the car is to drive it easy. The reason is even with a Turbo Timer, the car isn't really moving. Unless your fans are on there really isn't any air being pulled through the radiator (even with the fans, it's not as good as driving the car easy). Also, unless you have a fan on the back of your oil cooler, you don't have air moving through it either.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

Actually Rynberg said but that is another topic.
Most FD's have radiator fans that come on at I think 110C for the low speed. The thermostat starts to open at 83C. That means cruising and getting airflow you could potentially keep your water temps close to that 83C. Sitting in your driveway idling the best you could hope for is 110 because your radiator doesnt do squat without air flow. Personally I will go for the cruising temps.

hardbodeez

iTrader: (4)

This is perfect, couldn't have explained it any better!
Like he said in the first paragraph.....localized boiling...very crucial on a rotary. And this is info from someone who actually "tracks" his car, a big difference from street driving.

Battyboy

Thats exactly what I use mine for. Just start her up, let it run for I couple minutes while I get my **** together and lock up. Jump in ready to go straight away.

jic

iTrader: (1)

still need to install my turbo timer...hopefully it wont be a pain in the ***

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Let's talk about a remote-start alarm system, now that would be a much more useful thing to spend your money on. You could have the car warm itself up for you, which is probably a bigger concern for most people. Rotaries take longer to warm up, and the clearances are all out of whack when they're cold.


Would you start your car in the morning and immediately drag race it?


-s-

Railgun

Since when?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/warm-up-414282/