turbo coolant problems
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
turbo coolant problems
i just did a coolant pressure test, and turns out my coolant is leaking from the turbo area, from under my car, it's dripping in the oil pan area.
my question is how hard is it to get to those turbo coolant hose? any guide on how to do it? and if it's the hose that's leaking, should i just get new ones from dealer or is there a better alternative?
also what else could it be that's leaking from that area? could it have something to do with the part where waterpump connect to the engine?
thanks
Randy
my question is how hard is it to get to those turbo coolant hose? any guide on how to do it? and if it's the hose that's leaking, should i just get new ones from dealer or is there a better alternative?
also what else could it be that's leaking from that area? could it have something to do with the part where waterpump connect to the engine?
thanks
Randy
#3
Rotary Freak
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
thanks,
another question, the hose from ast to the overflow reservior, if i want to replace it, what hose should i use? the oem one has a split in the middle, with a white connector inside, why is that?
another question, the hose from ast to the overflow reservior, if i want to replace it, what hose should i use? the oem one has a split in the middle, with a white connector inside, why is that?
#5
40k worth of fail
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
Posts: 1,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Randy ...
There are actually two different coolant pipes on the turbos ... one in and one out. The lines are gonna be pretty hard for you to get to yourself since I know what tools you have (did you even go to Sears?!), but you can do it. If you have one that's leaking, then I have a spare set of them. I also have a spare set of the banjo bolts that hold them in if by chance you split one of those. It could also be as simple as a bad seal with the copper crush washers ... and I have some spares of those. You should have two of them for each bolt, one on each side of each pipe fitting. Make sure that you have that. Let me know if you need any of the stuff that I have.
Oh ... and for the reservior line ... I have no clue why they have those bridges in them. You can use 5/16" (or 3/8" if you have to) fuel line to replace it ... and get some screw type ("worm gear") clamps for the ends.
There are actually two different coolant pipes on the turbos ... one in and one out. The lines are gonna be pretty hard for you to get to yourself since I know what tools you have (did you even go to Sears?!), but you can do it. If you have one that's leaking, then I have a spare set of them. I also have a spare set of the banjo bolts that hold them in if by chance you split one of those. It could also be as simple as a bad seal with the copper crush washers ... and I have some spares of those. You should have two of them for each bolt, one on each side of each pipe fitting. Make sure that you have that. Let me know if you need any of the stuff that I have.
Oh ... and for the reservior line ... I have no clue why they have those bridges in them. You can use 5/16" (or 3/8" if you have to) fuel line to replace it ... and get some screw type ("worm gear") clamps for the ends.
Last edited by DK; 02-03-02 at 03:30 AM.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Roaring Spring, PA USA
Posts: 524
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally posted by Alpine
thanks,
another question, the hose from ast to the overflow reservior, if i want to replace it, what hose should i use? the oem one has a split in the middle, with a white connector inside, why is that?
thanks,
another question, the hose from ast to the overflow reservior, if i want to replace it, what hose should i use? the oem one has a split in the middle, with a white connector inside, why is that?
Tim
#7
40k worth of fail
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
Posts: 1,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ahhhhhhh ... good call, Tim. That makes sense. I didn't have a plastic AST long enough to pay any attention to that!
Oh I just read your post again, Randy ... if it's not the hardlines (and it's probably not), check the connecting rubber lines coming from the water pump. On your car, one will be right under the air pump and the other will be down at the bottom of the water pump housing, kinda behind your airbox or something. Replace those with 3/8" fuel line ... and screw-type clamps are always a great idea.
Oh I just read your post again, Randy ... if it's not the hardlines (and it's probably not), check the connecting rubber lines coming from the water pump. On your car, one will be right under the air pump and the other will be down at the bottom of the water pump housing, kinda behind your airbox or something. Replace those with 3/8" fuel line ... and screw-type clamps are always a great idea.
Last edited by DK; 02-03-02 at 01:41 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally posted by DK
Ahhhhhhh ... good call, Tim. That makes sense. I didn't have a plastic AST long enough to pay any attention to that!
Oh I just read your post again, Randy ... if it's not the hardlines (and it's probably not), check the connecting rubber lines coming from the water pump. On your car, one will be right under the air pump and the other will be down at the bottom of the water pump housing, kinda behind your airbox or something. Replace those with 3/8" fuel line ... and screw-type clamps are always a great idea.
Ahhhhhhh ... good call, Tim. That makes sense. I didn't have a plastic AST long enough to pay any attention to that!
Oh I just read your post again, Randy ... if it's not the hardlines (and it's probably not), check the connecting rubber lines coming from the water pump. On your car, one will be right under the air pump and the other will be down at the bottom of the water pump housing, kinda behind your airbox or something. Replace those with 3/8" fuel line ... and screw-type clamps are always a great idea.
i'll probalby remove the air pump and take a look at the turbo coolant hose,
another question, when i take off the belt, i have to adjust the tension, i read it in shop manual where to adjust it, but how am i suppose to know what tension or deflection is right? how do i measure it?
ohh btw daniel, i got a 195pcs craftsman tool kit from qvc.com more than i ever need.
#9
40k worth of fail
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
Posts: 1,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hahahaha ... cool deal. So you got a Sears set not from Sears? That's weird. Anyways ... adjusting a belt, you want it tight enough that it's somewhat diffult to squeeze it towards itself in the gaps, but you don't want it so tight that you can't squeeze it at all. Does that make any sense? It's kinda arbitrary, and if you feel like in high RPMs that it's slipping then you need to tighten it some more.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kyo
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
08-14-15 02:00 PM