Killuminatic

I've been looking for rx-7s the past month now, and have came down to 3 rx-7s, an r-1 rx-7 for 18888, 2 for for 16500, and 1 for 17500. I'm new to this car, but always been a fan of it, and now decided to buy it, what should i look for in the rx-7 for me to choose the one i want? besides looks that is, also if they put in a new engine , what effects does that have on the car. one more thing is, 2 of these rx-7s have like 70k-85k miles on it, are tehy worth 16k? and how much miles can the rx-7 engine handle before i have to change it?

gohorns

I prefer a lower mileage car but those are getting very hard to find. If the car has 60K or up make sure it has a new engine or else have enough money to put one in. They last on about 75K miles depending on how much boost is run daily.

Check turbos, make sure they boost properly 10-8-10 is stock but depending on mods that may vary.

Do a search, plenty of info...

cournal

price sounds a bit high. depends on genral cond. mods, is the paint original, what is the vacume/boost, has the turbos been changed or the engine? i have a customer that got 130k out of his engine and turbos. i just did mine at 60k. the engine was still strong, turbos had the normal cracks. big money when it comes time to freshen up!!!

Garrett

Go to the regional section of this forum and find a knowledgeable member to help you out or a mechanic to take each of the cars to that the regional members recommend in your area.

Other than that, good luck and welcome to a world you will soon hate/love/respect/despise/envy/admire all at the same time.

Once you buy the car make sure you do all of the reliability mods you can (search for them). Then proceed on your merrily way as you would with any other car. Except for the fact that virtually no other car has a rotary engine in the world and they are the closest automobiles have come to being a certified psycho bitch of a girlfriend but you still like the sex (figuratively speaking).

Garrett

Garrett

Oh yea, don't buy the R1 just because it is an R1. There is virtually no difference between any of the models other than the R1 has dual oil coolers (significant) and a few other odds and ends that I don't feel like contemplating. The power is the same, so don't be fooled.

Killuminatic

****, damn site lost my reply, i gotta write it over hehe, Anyway one post on this site and i already love it, i never got replies that fast on any other forum. As for the cars, 2 of the rx-7 have new engines, one with 2k, and the other with 10k, should i just buy the ones with the new engines? The other 2 look nicer and have 75-85k miles, does that mean that i will have to change the engine soon? As for the Rx-7 r1, it's the most expensive outta the rest, but it has a nice front bumper and low beam covers, i heard the suspension was better but the ride ruffer, also does the dual oil coolers help alot? btw the remark you made about the rx-7 being like a psycho girlfriend was great, i got a beautiful girlfriend, but she's crazy as hell, but the sex is wonderful LOL

Killuminatic

what do you mean by 10-8-10??

Nathan Kwok

10-8-10 refers to the boost pattern, so if the car has a boost gauge (they do not come from the factory but knowledgeable owners install one), when you accelerate from 2k rpm (do it in 3rd gear if you have enough road), the boost should almost immediately rise to 10psi, then dip momentarily to 8psi at 4500rpm, then go back to 10psi after that. My advice is to get the nicest looking one if they all already have new engines. By nicest looking i mean glossiest paint, newest looking interior, cleanest engine bay, etc etc. Generally cars that are immaculate looking are also well kept. Of course, if any of them drive "funny" in any way, then stay away from that, and stay away from anything too heavily modded for now because you won't know if the mods are well done or not at this point. The car should not smoke excessively at startup, stall, lurch, make funny noises, have inconsistent power delivery, none of that. Since you are in Cali don't kill yourself over finding some awesome deal for $10k-12k because that is difficult in this state, I would focus instead on finding the nicest, closest to showroom condition car you can, pay the bucks now, and avoid the headache later.

Killuminatic

hmm good thinkin, 2 of the rx-7s im lookin at are real nice expensive, but have 75-85k, the other 2 have new engines but dont look that nice, so should i go for the nice high miles, or the ok new engines?

Garrett

10-8-10 is the twin-turbo's boost pattern. Basically when you feel the initial surge of acceleration you are feeling one turbo kicking in, it happens around 2500-3000 rpms, and the boost of that measured in psi is 10. Then around 4500 rpms the acceleration hesitates while the second of your two turbos kicks in and the boost is 8 psi. It quickly recovers, if the turbos are kicking in right, to 10 again and voila, both turbos are kicking in at 10 psi! So, hence the 10-8-10 pattern. It is in actuality a lot more complicated than that but you will learn that later. This is only for initiation purposes, later, when you are fixing a boost problem or changing your turbo (non) sequential control vacuum hoses to silicon, is when it gets really exciting. Doesn't that sound fun? It can be to the right mind.

The new engines are definitely the way to go. Find out who rebuilt them and post it on here. Someone will know about the shop/dealership. Well, if it was done at a dealership, watch out! DO NOT TAKE YOUR CAR TO A DEALERSHIP TO BE SERVICED NO MATTER WHAT! If you have to buy a "factory" service manual and do it yourself. Mechanics at Mazda dealerships are the number one cause of frustration for the typical owner who hasn't done their homework. Find a good RX-7 capable mechanic.

When I found mine, it was a godsend. From there, I learned on my own (with massive amounts of help from this forum) to work on the car myself. When I run into trouble I just call up Bryan at www.rotorsportsracing.com and tell him I'm on my over to Kannapolis.

Forget about how the R1 looks/rides, if you can choose from 2 RX-7s with rebuilt engines, then run like a muthafucka towards them and don't look back. Take my word for it.

The dual oil coolers are something you can definitely live without. I don't have dual oil coolers and plan on not getting them. Just make sure your radiator is working right and the car is running cool. Do a search on here if you want for the "fan switch modification" for the car to run cooler for ya.

If you still want cooler temps, you may need to upgrade the intercooler as part of your reliability mods. The stock intercooler is very small. That causes your engine to run on hot air and will spell the end to it if you race repeatedly in the heat without giving it a "breather".

If you have any more questions, just post or send me a private message. Good luck!javascript:checklength(document.vbform);
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Killuminatic

garett, thx again bro, if you have aim or icq please give me a message, seems like i learn alot from you, my aim is invazian86, and my icq is 6800939