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Checked the Crank angle sensor distance between the plate. Service manual says 1.0-2.0 mm distance is recommended.

Put the 2 mm feeler gauge and it’s definitely much larger of a gap. I am curious if this could be one of my culprits if the CAS is not detecting a signal?

Before I start adjusting this, would be curious of anyone else’s opinion on this


. I have a photo of the setup currently here attached.

 

What does the FSM say?

At an early stage there was a service bulletin that came out warning about the risk of the needle, or some other, bearing dropping, which can affect the position of the pulleys.

In your time of ownership were those pulleys ever puled of and replaced?

 

Not to send you on a goose chase about needle bearings, but it is likely worth bearing in mind:


When the front pulley are loosened off, say to replace a main seal, there is a risk the needle bearing will fall out of place. I am not sure what is necessary to avoid this.

But if you go exploring to see why your CAAS has an out of spec gap, be mindful of the risk of lossening off the pulleys.

 

The FSM does not seem to say what the consequences of being out of spec are.

 

The FSM is kind of useless. You have to turn to the parts catalogue to get a full picture of what is going on at the front end of the e-shaft..

Basically that whole jumble of parts is held in place by bolt 11-376,

 

OK. Here is some more detail from the FSM:

Here is how you adjust the position of the boss the pulleys are attached to. Read about the needle bearing issue on this page.

 

Appreciate all the sending over on this with photos and explanations...yeah FSM doesn't give any guidance if it is out of spec. Pulleys have never been touched during my ownership period and I have never had any issues starting or running bad one bit until this little endeavor I have put myself in. This makes me not really want to touch anything with the plate or CAS sensors yet. Save that for last if all else fails.

Once I get the primary injectors cleared up, I may try my old plug wires and I also have a new igniter that is supposed to go with FC Tweak. Haven't installed it yet...but may just do that as an option. Recently saw a video of an igniter swap and that helped a non-start issue on an FD.

-milly

 

To keep the needle bearing from falling, an old school trick is to keep the clutch pressed down the whole time while removing the front e-shaft bolt. This is just a note for anyone in the future wondering. Make sure you do your own research and verify, I'm going off memory. Good luck with starting the FD.

 

After reading through the thread, it seems like a sensor is not giving the ECU the correct input since it’s either not calibrated right, out of spec, or has no connection.

I would check the following:

• Double-check that the coolant temp and fuel temp sensors are not swapped; both look exactly the same and are easy to mix up, as mentioned above.
• Give it a little throttle while you are trying to start it so you can eliminate any of the adjustment screws on the throttle body from the equation.
• Check if your throttle position sensor (TPS) is within spec; you need a multimeter, or you can just use the Power FC after you reset it back to factory settings.

There is probably more stuff that I’m missing, but you are right, it is most likely something simple. If it were me, I would not keep swapping parts, praying, putting it back together, and repeating. OEM FDs are a PITA to take apart.

On that note, I see that you mentioned installing an FC Tweak igniter, so I assume you are eventually going to be running FC Tweak with the Power FC. I would start there first so you can take advantage of the FC Tweak’s polished interface for all the live data, switches, and sensors. Right away, you would see if something is not right. You can technically use the OG Power FC Commander to see what is listed, but you really have to pay attention to what you are looking at, while the FC-Tweak interface is way easier to read. See below.




After getting a readout on what the your ECU is receiving, I would then tackle it from there, good luck.

 

Guy with a very similar starting problem to you found he was getting wacky readings in the coolant temp box indicating the sensor was malfunctioning. Be mindful that there may be two coolant temp sensor so you have to figure out which sensor the ecu is reading.

Comments at the time were that such fault could only have been seen by FC tweak and likely the issuie would otherwise have been way down the list of possible problems.

 

Put the PFC in, reset it, and do a sensor check. See what the ranges are with the key on.

Is there any chance you pinched wires somewhere when you put the UIM back on?