Hello,
I have a very taxing problem. I was hoping a transmission expert my come to my rescue. I just installed a new engine in the car. I added a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing and seal with a JDM transmission. Now the car has a very had time shifting into reverse or first gear. Almost like the clutch isnt releasing, becouse it slightly jerks forward or reward depending on the gear.
I have switched out the presure plate with another one and the trans with another JDM one I had. The problem still around and dont know what else it could be. My only other option is the slave but it seems to work well and it doesnt leak. I did bleed it at first to make sure there was no air.
Help a girl out guys.
Thanks,
Clara

 

check the play in your clutch pedal. it might not be allowing you to have full travel.

 

Already adjusted the slack out of it. Still have the problem.

 

do you have a manual on hand? or one u can dl? in it there might be specs to show the range of movement ur slave is supposed to show when going from fully release pedal to fully engaged pedal. if it shows too little movement than ur pressure plate cant fully disengage. ur going to need someone to help push down the pedal so u can measure. if its too little u kno its something to do with ur clutch hydraulics like the master cylinder. if its fine then it could be a bent clutch fork or something beyond the slave but before the trans. GL

 

theres no specs on the slave cylinder travel in the fsm. I know the fork isnt it. The JDM trans came with the thicker up graded one. Plus I put it up next to a couple of other ones and they all keep the same shape.

 

Check the slave cylinder...

 

sorry i couldnt be of any useful assistance. im an fc owner so i dont know my way around the fd as well. best bet i think would be to check out the troubleshooting section of the fsm and go from there. from what you've told me and all the things you've check'd seems to point to a hydraulic problem, either master or slave cylinder.

 

Well my bf just changed out the slave with one he had and its still acting up. The master cylinder is the only thing that hasnt been changed yet. I dont think it is that becouse there is plenty of movement.
I am wishing I would have never bought this car!

 

Don't say that now! THis is why owning an FD is sooo much fun hehe.

 

had the same problem and it was the clutch fork. Had a crack in one of the arms that i couldn't see and it finally broke. The guys at rx7.com says it happens all the time and they keep them instock. So check the fork real good....the crack will only open up when the clutch is being used....performance pressure plates bring this prolem out

 

Bingo

had the same problem and it was the clutch fork. Had a crack in one of the arms that i couldn't see and it finally broke. The guys at rx7.com says it happens all the time and they keep them instock. So check the fork real good....the crack will only open up when the clutch is being used....performance pressure plates bring this prolem out

 

I was hoping it was that when we took the trans out the second time. I am running a stock exedy clutch and I have the upgraded clutch fork. I took it for a drive after changing the slave and it when into 1st once easy but it didnt do it again.
I wish what ever it was would break that way I knew what it was and I dont want to keep jamming it into gear.

 

Take the inspection cover off of the bellhousing and have someone watch you work the clutch. If the fork is cracked and not fully releasing the clutch you might (should?) be able to see it.

Dave

 

Well we checked the clutch fork and and it looks fine. No cracks or bending. We even used a pry bar to try to move it back even further but it is all the way back. You can even see the presure plate move away from clutch disc. What else could this be?

 

is it possible u guys might have installed the clutch disc backwards? though i hear if thats done then the results are usually catastrophic so that might not be it. but something to consider. just keep the hope going bc when u finally fix it u take back all the times u threated to sell the car. but just incase u dont find the solution... i've got dibs!

 

obviously there still is not enough movement. borrow one from a local if ya have to, buy him lunch for his time.lol

 

Is the wire ring/wedge collar assembly perfectly engaged?

Dave

 

Installing one backwards is a pretty noob mistake. I would take a look at the clutch disc. If the diaphram is bad it will do what your discribing. If you can acctuall we the presure plate releasing the disc your hydroloic system is fine.

 

^firefox spell check is an awesome tool.

 

YOU ARE AN IDIOT! I think that was right. I am on a cell phone and my life will go on if things aren't spelled correctly. I got my point across.

 

^ see now you are using it to your advantage. good for you.

 

Yes I think so. It is fully seated and it doesnt pop out or anything like that. Can a bad clutch disc do this? I did get a lightly used stock one and it looked good. We did switch pressure plates with the ACT one and back to stock but made no differents. The flywheel was also reground. I took it to a good local shop but never used them before and they ground the stepped part and the surface that was not machined before. I dont think this is it becouse they more than likely to the same amout of material off of each so that the plate seating would not change.

I did drive it to work to day and I can get it in 1st gear pretty easy if the car is moving but if it is stopped it is hard.

 

does it start to feel spongier after a while of driving? or is it pretty consistent all the time?

 

pedal pressure is consistent

 

I think it could be alot of things off of the top of my head. I checked on alldata pro and they gave me a bunch of possible causes under hard to shift. The simple one is that you just forgot to bleed your slave cylinder. But you probably did, so another probablility is that you've got worn/damaged syncronizer ring which controls the (1st, 4th, 5th, and reverse) gears. There is another syncronizer assembly that controls the 2nd and 3rd gear. I'd suggest you test drive the vehicle and see if your 4th and 5th gear is working fine. if its having problems there and not in 2nd and 3rd then you probably got a bad syncronizer ring. Those 2 are the ones I think are most likely. I'll list the other possiblities too for your consideration.

bent shift rod
insufficient oil
deterioration of oil quality
wear or play of shift fork or shift rod
worn syncronizer gear cone
poor contact of syncronizer ring and gear cone
excessive longitudinal play of gears
worn bearing
improper disengagement of clutch
weak syncronizer key spring

good luck with your tranny