7zoom

Okay I think I have the motor running pretty well so now it's time to address the suspension. I've notices two things some clunking and a wierd turn in when decelerating in those beloved on and off ramps. It's like as soon as I lift on the throttle the front end turns in hard. I dont really feel the rear end step out but I do feel the car turn in harder I never felt this that I can recall in any other car.

So I looked at the diff mounts and dont see any sign of cracks or leaks I also dont see anything odd with the toe links.

Should I see a problem or is it only visible upon removal?

I'm thinking of getting the Pettit $150 diff mounts and $200 toe links?

I'm wondering if I need the lower links "lauch kit"?

Also is this really a simple ordinary hand tools 1 hour job???

Suggestions appreciated
7zoom

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

To drop the diff is not a 1 hour job but is not all that difficult. I dropped mine and reinstalled it in about 6 hours.that's not including taking off the exhaust,drive shaft and PPF. I did the job by my self i am sure with a buddy or two things would be a bit faster. Basic tools nothing crazy. 14mm 17mm ect long *** extension to hold back on the diff nut and a lot of patience.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

you can swap the diff mount w/o dropping the diff in about 3 hours by yourself including putting it on jack stands etc....

Just loosen the PPF and take the two diff bolts out and it will lower down to the point where the axles rest on the sub frame giving you enough room to get to the top bolts. If the top bolts are really tight you'll need a long 17mm wrench and a fat pipe that'll fit over the end to add leverage.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

This sounds like normal effects of weight transfer. Off throttle the weight goes forward, front tires get more of the grip, and you will find yourself turning more.

Changing the toe links is an easy job. Trailing arm is not bad. Diff mounts is more work as you'll have to lower the diff, remove the mount bracket, and take them to get the actual mounts (bushings) pressed out and in.

While all of these pieces can and do wear out, the stock diff bushings tend to be first to go. I would begin there.

Dave

WaachBack

iTrader: (21)

Diff bushing will usually go before any other bushing. When I pulled my diff to change my LSD, mine was half gone. I now have a 1 peice bushing in there. Its much better.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

7zoom,

the first thing to do is check tire pressure. 30 fr and 27.5 rear set cold.

step two is alignment. see specs in my thread in the suspension section entitled "howard coleman's FS chassis/suspension setup.'" specs in post one.

if there is a major bushing failure in the front leading to your problem, or if you have lost a outer steering rod-end, it will show up during alignment when adjusting toe.

your problem, as you describe it, is w the front not the rear.

that said, i highly recommend that all performance FD owners replace two, and only two, bushing sets. the upper diff bushings, and Fritz is correct that they can be changed without messing w the gear housing, and the front large rubber bushing on the lower longitudinal link... that's in the rear of the car.

as long as your rear toe link bushings are in good shape, i e no clunking, i am fine w stock.

good luck and let us hear from you after alignment.

hc

7zoom

Not sure what happened to my last reply.
My plan is the diff mounts first then rear toe links and then alignment so I can learn the significance of each.

Thanks for the tips I'll certainly check out the suspension post I'd like to compare the set up to the one on Pettit's site.


I'll post up my findings

7zoom