So I've reluctantly decided that it's time to sell my 93 ssm touring after almost 10 years of ownership. I hate the idea of not having it, especially since I lusted after the damn thing since high school, but I just can't justify hanging on to it now that I'm divorced and facing a short sale and a move into the city.

With that said, the point of my post is an attempt to figure out a fair asking price for the car. I don't want to give it away, nor do I want to be an asshat and ask way too much. I'm hoping the great minds here can come through for me one last time and help me figure out what a fair asking price might be. ; )

Anyway, on to the details of the car....

It has just over 100k on the chassis, and less than 8k on a rebuilt engine w/stock seq twins. There are no issues with it and I've actually been driving it daily without trouble for a few months now. I'll post pics soon, but the car is in excellent condition both inside and out. Mods are as follows:

Medium streetport
Pfc, commander and datalog box
Wideband o2
Blitz sbc id boost controller
Various Greedy gauges
Tein coilovers
High flow water pump
Rx7store downpipe
Rb dual catback
Ported wastegate
Efini Y pipe
Lightened flywheel and new clutch (I'll verify manufacturer and specs on both)

It's been a while since I did it, but when I rebuilt the engine I replaced every gasket, seal and hose as well as all the things generally recommended in the forum (such as the fuel pulsation dampener). Things like the fc thermoswitch mod and oil pan brace were done and I sent the injectors out to be cleaned and flow tested (I have the sheet with the results). The car was never dynoed, tuned or tracked during my ownership. All stock parts were kept and come with the car.

I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things, but I kept all of the receipts so I'll go through all of them to make sure I'm not missing anything.

So what does the forum think?

John

 

Looks like some decent mods but a port and a light weight flywheel may actually reduce the value.

If everything works, the susp is good and there are no leaks etc....

13k fast sale

16k long sale

 

^Spot on.

 

First: Keep the car if you can. These things are finally starting to go up in value.

Second: Don't base the price of your car on what the forum thinks. This place is aka low baller central. What people think here has never reflected actual prices of fds within driving distance of my area.

Third: Do an internet search on fds that are currently for sale and then price your car according to what you find.

 

cars.com and autotrader.com both let you set up a search for RX7s.
You can sort the results by year so FDs will be at the top.

Once you have the search, you can make a shortcut to it and you can check it daily from your desktop and it will have current info. Simple way to keep up on the market.

 

You wont find anyone more knowledgeable than Fritz when it comes to FD values.

 

^^I agree.

 

Show me a rx7 for sale on cars.com

 

Word.


At the end of the day, a car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Semi-rare cars like the FD (not an exotic, not really a "collector's car") are one of the more difficult to set a sale price for. The o.p. indicates he has a fairly short time frame to sell the car in if I am reading his post correctly. Usually that means one is tempted to take an offer that meets the minimum price point the seller has in his mind.

If it were my car I'd put a $15K price on it, see what sort of interest it garnered.

 

1993 Mazda RX-7 , $27,800 - Cars.com

 

Why would a streetport reduce the value of the car? (not arguing but asking)

 

This car has a long list of issues: wrecked, completely disassembled, painted, many parts lost, many used parts bought to replace lost parts etc....

Because it's a modification that if not done correctly can cause damage. Also the car should be tuned for the port and the tune may also be a worry.

 

This is what I was referring to:

Montego blue, 100k miles, with mods for $25k.

http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/de...4692/overview/

If all possible you gotta go by what's in your area(emphasis on possible). For years I've seen prices in my area not reflect what the forum claims. Maybe it is a California thing. I dunno...


Lol! Well he did ask that you show him...

Edit-
Hey Fritz,

Just a out of curiosity how do you know? So I take it the dealer is straight out lying?

 

If it is a large port that takes out the option of the stock ecu, car will run terrible. I think Fritz will disagree with me here due to the often 3k hesitation but the FD is the most pleasurable to drive on a stock ecu. I dont like loud stinky cars or those that buck on decel or low rpm throttle. Few "tuned" fds truly run very well outside of high rpm and wide open throttle. I spent half a day to get my FD to idle smoothly at 850-900rpms on the PFC, even with all the tricks it still does some weird small idle bounces from time to time.

Stock port is generally most desired for guys who put a lot of street miles on their fd.

 

I was thinking of selling my R2 and going a different direction for a year or so but with prices jumping Im going to wait it out awhile.

 

in regards to carfax, and the Rx7, there are two problems.

the first is very simple, carfax was founded in 1997, and wasn't widely adopted until later, so anything before 1997 is not going to be there unless its public record, and anything before 99? 2000? is going to be spotty.

there is also the second part, which is that the accident needs to be reported. if you don't report an accident to the insurance/police, it never happened.

carfax isn't an absolute

secondly i typed the VIN of this cym into the Mazda computer and it had the brake recall, and the fuel recall 12-29-2011, which is fine, but they list 50,001 miles....

 

I can't speak for the dealer but I know the car.

It's a well known car that I considered buying a couple of different times so I know the history pretty well. The previous owner bought a new gauge cluster to match the title. The actual miles are unknown but it really does have low mileage I would guess under 10k on most of the car but who really cares at this point it's been wrecked pretty bad, entire interior ripped out and put back in, repainted blah blah it's worth 15k max in my book. LONG LONG History of crazy sh#t is tied to that car.

 

Gotcha. Well... That's the used market for you....

 

*shrug* He just said show me an RX-7 on cars.com, so I showed him the first one I came across.

 

Isn't odometer fraud a felony?

 

I'm pretty sure it is

My understanding is the owner had issues with the odometer matching the history so simply bought a brand new odometer and then matched it to the history

It's all just rumors and stories so maybe this is a legit car with legit mileage but that's not what I've been told. It's not hard to find out most of the history though if you know anything about cars the proof will be in the pudding.

I'm pretty sure the dealer has to record and odometer switch etc....

If anyone is interested in this car I'd check for odometer change, previous accident/paint work and bolts out of place, interior pieces looking older that others blah blah blah

 

when you buy a new speedo/odo, it comes with a sticker that goes in the door jamb where the mileage of the old cluster gets recorded, it also should be on the repair order from the shop.

i guess it wouldn't be surprising if the sticker was on the car and the guy selling it didn't mention it in the ad....

BTW Mazda's warranty history said it had 50,001 miles in 2012.

 

When I saw it for sale two years ago in AL the seats were worn more than the claimed 2000 miles at the time. The front end didn't line up, paint didn't match, and some pieces were missing. The guy in AL was asking $19k last time I saw him drop the price. The car is definitely not a legit 3k mile car. Sadly someone will likely get hosed on this FD.

 

Hmm... that dealer is only 20mi away, now I wanna go check out the car cause I'm curious lol.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. The car has a pineapple med streetport and I'm running the base map on the pfc. The original intention was to go small single and get any tuning done afterwards. Then life happened. Haha. I'm sure I'm leaving power on the table with the base map, but my *** dyno says it's stronger overall compared to stock. :-)

I don't have a particular timeline in mind, but I don't really want the car sitting with a for sale sign in the window for 6 months. Admittedly, my adhd (and the impulsivity that goes along with it) coupled with the suggestions ITT to keep the car are already making it difficult to stick with my decision to sell, lol.