keep up the good work sir

Just finished the semi-race port, I'll be posting pictures tomorrow. Porting took almost 6 hours, ugh. Rebuilding will start tomorrow.

guys im having trouble accessing the factory service manual to pull the #s to see if my internals are in spec (eg. apex groove width, corner seal wear, etc.)

are these specs posted anywhere or does anyone have them available in text form? the only access i have to the internet is at the library and i have no means to download or read the FSM :(

============| hi

:bigok: looks good.

Glad to see an owner with a :D durring a rebuild.

Also, need more pics of the two garage mates together. That's one kick ass garage. 2 awesome cars, 4 seats total. less than 5,000lbs between the two of them :icon_tup:

:D

bad news though i need new F/R rotor housings which i was expecting, and also one of the rotors has damage. louie at RRR says will need to be repaired(thanks for inspecting the parts :)). looks like a gash caused from an ejected piece of apex when the rotor was in another motor. guess whoever put the reman together thought it was within spec.. i'll get pictures soon

i used a com along instead on the load leveler. just as good just not a professional as your way:) .

Sorry to hear about needing new rotor housings and rotor. I just took apart my block last week, I'll see if you can re-use my housings. As for a rotor, check the classifieds and see if anyone is selling rotors.

cool steve give me a call sometime if u're up 2 anything with the motor. have you clearanced your side seals?

I'm going to be doing the rebuild next weekend, let me know if you want to come. I need to make a stop by Mazdatrix to pick up the other 3 ceramic seals and gasket set.

update time
 

received most my parts for the rebuild:

F/R rotor housings ~ $550 each
2mm OEM apex 2-piece, both rotors ~$300
6 apex springs Long $30
6 apex springs Short $30
12 side seals $130
12 side seal springs $50
12 corner seals OEM w/inserts $70
12 corner seal springs $40
water pump, rebuilt $60
oil pump $120
oil pump chain $30
front cover gasket $20
8 oil control rings $150
4 oil control oring inner $60
4 oil control oring outer $60

side housing lapping @ racing beat $345 after tax

misc parts/tools for rebuild:
engine hoist ~$110
engine stand ~$30-40 (harbor freight)
feeler gauge set(to check seal clearances) $3 @hf
hyolmar (thanks steve) $15
crisco/petroleum gel - $3
2 1/8 inch socket $28 at sears
18 inch breaker bar $28
1/2->3/4 drive adapter $6
amemiya boost gauge and steering pod $180
sard oil pedestal for sensor placement $70


upcoming parts:

pineapple racing HD coolant seal set (complete inner and outer heavy duty water jacket pieces 4 outer 4 inner, w/ alignment dowel o's(4), front cover seal+o, oil pedestal o's(2)) ~$185 + ship

cleaning info
 

cleaning supplies:
3m paint respirator/filter mask $30
nitrile chemical handling gloves $4
scotchbrite pads $4
brass brushes (4) ~$4 (harbor freight)
old toothbrushes
bondo brand rubber sanding block $6 (from kragen, recommended for light cleaning/polishing of side housings with 600 - 1000 grit wetsand paper(4$), block has flat working surface. also good for rotor sides)
(castrol) super clean ~$6 one bottle is enough to degrease all internals and housings. works well on carbon buildup + brass brush
kerosene/mineral spirits $10 - degreaser + lubricant for sandpaper when wet-polishing
air compressor with blow attachment
old apex/side seals

cleaning was something like this--
Rotors: wet with kerosene, degreases well but not so great on buildup, scrub with brass brush. scotchbrite pad on bearings. wetsand sides.

spray with superclean, let soak 15 min. scrub with brass brush. run old seals through respective grooves to scrape out carbon buildup and gunk. repeat until cleared.

cleaning Lapped Side Housings: wet with kerosene. brass brush on outer surfaces. lightly polish surface with block+600/1000grit sandpaper keeping work area lubricated with clean kerosene.

Rotor housings: scotchbrite + superclean is good on the surfaces. brass brush the outer portions.

after cleaning all parts i rinsed with water (toothbrush works well at this point to scrub out grooves while rinsing) and blew dry with air compressor

https://img392.imageshack.us/img392/...5070282sn4.jpg
back to the issue of pulling, i took off the front wheels and lowered the car on jacks since the car tends to rise a couple of inches w/o the weight of engine and tranny. this helped a lot for clearance :)

also, whats the consensus as far as replacing eccentric shaft components like the pilot bearing / seal. what about thermal pellet? thrust plates? thrust plate washers?

Hey Alex, just saw this post up again. Cool, you got your parts. Let me know if you want a street port done, I can have my friend do it for you. I take my block down next week, I finally picked up my parts I forgot when I took the block apart. Can't wait for the fabrication to start.

im back in northern ca, dont think i'll be using a streetport in this engine. might do something with the wastegate though, but i doubt it. :)

do you still have those turbo / ex. mani gaskets left over from your engine? i might need a few or i can pick them up from malloy or graphite from pineapple.

Let me see because I'm going custom and a lot of those stock gaskets I probably won't use.

keep on rockin in the free world

need some advice. is it recommended to change the fpd and underhood fuel lines during a rebuild?

im already planning on getting the injectors redone.

i have never heard of replacing those with a rebuild:dunno: but if you got the money and want to do it go ahead.
but you also no what they say... if its not broke dont fix it.:ylsuper:

What kind of AST is that?

tripoint engineering. seams are super clean :)

well i definitely don't have the money.. lol

fuel leak = engine fire
 

^^^ That's terrible advice. If you look around this forum enough, you'll realize that there has been more than one engine fire attributed to the FPD taking a big huge shit and leaking all over the place. It sure doesn't help that the thing is located in a very hot part of the engine bay either.

Call Ray Crowe (1-888-533-3400) up at Malloy Mazda and order a NEW FPD and fuel lines. The FPD will run you $100+ and the fuel line kit is probably $50. Call him up and get current pricing. You could get away with skimping on both but why take the chance? Unless the pieces have less than 50k on them and look cherry, I'd change them out.

FWIW, I agree with mdpalmer. Our stock '94 developed a fuel smell at around 90K miles. We are the original owners, and the car was never raced, damaged, or abused in any way since new. The FPD just plain gave out. I replaced it, plus the injector and FPR O-rings, and the fuel lines in the engine compartment. Problem gone. The FPD is so hard to get to, that if it is old and you have the engine out, IMHO it is good practice to replace it.

i think i will replace the fpd and lines.

another question i couldn't find in archived threads.. how is everyone measuring corner seal groove wear? i see a special service tool in the factory manual but no measurements associated with that. same question regarding corner seal wear. i can't find any numbers..

also is there a preferred tool to measure inner diameters? or is a dial caliper with both larger outer and small inner jaws good enough?

Every one should buy the atkins or RA rebuild video, I can't vouch for the Atkins, because I haven't seen it but others do. I have the RA video it is nessesary to own a vid if you rebuild. End of story!

Terry7

i've seen the atkins video but there is no section on how to inspect parts or any measurements. other that than it covers teardown and reassembly really well.