ok... the procedure for adjusting TPS

Procedure:
1.Start and run engine until at normal operating temperature and the fast idle cam is at idle position.
2.Turn off engine.
3.Remove the AWS hose that connects to the long curved inlet pipe and to the 4.AWS solenoid behind the throttle body.
5.Remove the hose from the pressure sensor on the firewall and tuck it down out of the way. Procedures 3 & 4 are to make room to reach the 2 TPS bolts.
6.Using the 7mm socket, 3/8" to 1/4" adapter, and 3/8" rachet, 1oosen the lower TPS bolt.
7.Using the 7mm socket and 1/4" L handle, barely loosen the top TPS bolt.
8.Connect the negative volt meter lead to a good ground point. I used one of the ground points in the diagnostic connector.
9.Insert the safety pin point into the 3F or 3G TPS connector between the wire and rubber weather seal. Using the alligator tip, connect the volt meter positive lead to the latch end of the safety pin.
10.Turn on the ignition without starting the engine. If there isn't a voltage reading, then readjust your ground and TPS connections until you do.
11.Note the voltages at closed and fully opened throttle.
12.Do the same for the other TPS connector point.
13.If all four voltages are not within the specified ranges, loosen the top TPS bolt and rotate the TPS until all four voltages are correct.
14.Tighten the 2 TPS bolts and reassemble everything. Do not over tighten the two TPS bolts. Their listed torque is 14 to 21 inch pounds!
14.Drive the car then readjust the idle air bleed if necessary.

Can someone please explain step 14? How do you air bleed? Someone help me pleeaasseeee

 

the idle bleed is the minimum air the car recieves. if the tps is out of wack and the air bleed is adjusted to make the idle ok etc.. when you put the tps correct it will have an effect on the a/f ratio because the car looks at tps voltage to determine fuel spark etc.. set the tps correctly. you will only have to adjust the screw if the idle seems weird or there are deceleration driveability issues

 

hmm well ill be doing it soon, so ill post back on how things go. I just wanna make sure on everything so i dont end up crying when im done =). Thx for the info.

-J-

 

Some TPS are held on by two allen head screws instead of bolts.
These will require different tools, and maybe even taking the throttle body off and replalcing the fasteners. My TPS was held on by two bolts.

When I wrote up these instructions years ago, the PFC was not out. With a PFC and commander, you can read the voltages on the ETC screen.

 

man bad crap now guys... i just got my car back from the body shop... and i went upstairs to get the instuctions on how to do the adjustment, i go downstairs to move my into the middle of the garage(need alot of free space) and my car was straight dead. The body shop repaired some electrical and i think they wires something that wasnt supposed to be. Every damn damn i have to start my car i gotta use a jumper pack. im hella pissed, nice *** painted rx7 and then u see someone jumping it...... well i gotta get this problem solved first befor ei do the adjustment so fo the ppl waiting for how it goes... sorry for the wait. Cewrx7r1, thx for the info, i heard about that and ill make sure which type i have.

-J-