Ok, first time poster here. Hoping someone, or many people may be able to help. Problem is as follows:

Ok, i have just replaced my throttle body with a different one, that has had everything removed from it. So, i start her up, and she's now cold idling at 2400rpm, and the revs didn't seem to drop as she warmed up. I didn't let her fully warm up though, so i'm not 100% on this.

Throttle adjustment screw on the top is completely out, the idle valve is not plugged in, and the air bleed screw at the base has 3 half turns unscrewed from being screwed in fully.

Can anyone suggest what to adjust, and whether it should be clockwise or anti-clockwise?

 

Check to see if the fast idle cam adjust screw is to far in .It is on the firewall side below the hot wax rod .See if the lower plate is open to far with a flash light ,remove elbow , Is the cruise control cable adjusted with slack .Check for an air leak .See if the secondary plates are closed fully ,flash light .See if the throttle cable has slack .

 

you will probably also need to adjust the TPS sensor. there is a link for the procedure in the FAQ

 

What is a proper setting for fast idle cam? Mine is all way in I think (limited by spring) How do I set it up?

Here is my story.. I have PFC and I have idle set (in PFC) at 1000 rpm
Car used to hunt and I had oil leak at oil nozzle, so I had all intake out, did all vacuum hoses job, etc. I also cleaned out TB very good while it was out. No settings were changed though..

When I started car first - Idle was around 2000rpm and then it got up to 2200-2300. I see turbos glowing and coolant temp needle stays in a middle.

At the same time PFC WT only went from 7 to about 11 degrees which is weird. I thought this is air pocket because wax rod wasn't engaged all way out, but still weird - why temperature reading in PFC so low?

Anyway. I read bunch on this topic and started to check things. I did burp system few times, started car few times and still only got 23 degree water temp reading from PFC(air temp being the same?!).

Throttle adjustment bolt was too much in, RPM's dropped dramatically when I turned it out. Air screw on a bottom was also out like 3-4 turns. I got it in, took it out 1/2 turn and used adjustment bolt to get RPM's to like 850. Before that overhaul PFC would hold idle at 1000..

I checked TPS per PFS and have good numbers (0.02V off everywhere)

All looks good, but engine runs crappy. I think it should be like r-r-r-r-r-r and it's like r-r-r-br-r-r-r-br-r-r- - You get idea..

When it idles - if blip throttle - it surges (no immediate response) and when release - it does pop-pop-pop..

Also, what is correlation between PFC idle settings and those screws. Which should I set first?

I also tried to check for air leak past throttle body. UIM to LIM looks good (sprayed carb clean along seam), TB to UIM looks good.

How do I check LIM to block leak? Have no clue, there is no way to spray there. But I had surface clean and used new gasket, torqued starting in a middle in 2 stages up to factory torgue..

I'm attaching picture of TB, if someone can go through and explain once again?

Thanks a lot!

P.S. I did log like 4 idle sessions with PFC, if someone can tell by looking - I appreciate it..

 

Do you have 850's in the primary rail...because I have the same EXACT problem that I'm working on as well.

 

make sure you don't have the harness plug for your water temp sensor plugged into your fuel temp sensor. that might be part of it.

 

Yes, it was. I found it later. Didn't put it all back yet. Will see what happens