serbRX7

iTrader: (9)

finishing up my throttle mod

the post that got me started where incomplete
just need some things cleared up before i move forward....

also i am going to do write up on complete single turbo conversion for every one els because its just pain in a$$ to find all needed info everything is just in bits and pieces ....and igot plenty pic and vid...it will help every one ....as soon as i am done

i wanna keep everything in this thread

i am all so looking for some one that can help me finishing my conversion
over the forum in this thread ... just need some one that did this conversion...and can be like u need to do this next ...and i go and do it..not much more to it
pic #1
#1 i think this needs to be removed
#2 if #1 goes this one should go to ......right
#3 this is idle control or some thing that just stays there right

PIC#2
that screw that just gets left alone right

pic#3
FPR location

pic#4
diagram
-what do i need to do with #1 marked in diagram there are two things right on the block
-i am also only going to run 14-15 psi spring with caped off wastgate because i am staying with
4x850cc injectors for now welbro pump and i think thats all they can handle

V mount intercooler


also when i ordered gt35r kit from rx7 store they told me that they dont divert wastgate back to the exhaust ...would there be any problems with that

ok i think i covered every thing

94touringFD

iTrader: (30)

#3 is the TPS and yes it stays. If you messed with it you'll just need to adjust it when you put it all
back together. If you remove the plunger that prevents the throttle from slamming shut you can plug or remove the coolant lines. You get your GT35R yet?

94touringFD

iTrader: (30)

Oh, didn't see the end, lol! Not having it rerouted to the exhaust will make it kinda loud when the wastegate opens but Jason said that everything is included to route it back to the exhaust yourself if you can weld.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you know that most of the stuff you are pulling off (with the exception of the accelerated warmup system) was designed to keep your idle stable and improve driveability? #1 and #2 are there to make your car idle better when cold and warm up quicker (without the overkill of the AWS). They are part of the fast idle system. You blocked off your ISC valve, which can be a bit annoying to get working right, keeps your idle from dropping when the cooling fans or A/C come on. It also opens during cranking so that the car starts faster and easier. The dashpot is there to keep your car from stalling. The #1 in the 4th pic is for the oil metering pump injectors (if you are keeping them), they should be hooked somewhere before the throttle plates.


the Dashpot is not operated by engine coolant. It is a separate and unrelated component that is designed to keep your car from stalling on deceleration. It is akin to the dampers they put on doors in public places that keeps them from slamming shut.

I'm not saying that is automatically "wrong" to block all these off, or that nobody should ever remove these components from the TB. But a lot of owners don't understand what they do but they take them off because they read about it somewhere, and complain about driveability problems resulting from their removal. There are tradeoffs to pulling this stuff out, with the exception of the AWS which should always be blocked off.








the Dashpot is not operated by engine coolant. It is a separate and unrelated component that is designed to keep your car from stalling. It is akin to the dampers they put on doors in public places that keeps them from slamming shut.

94touringFD

iTrader: (30)

My bad on the dashpot relation to the coolant lines on the TB. My brother removed mine while I was
at Drum cause he said it wasn't allowing my throttle to close all the way and negatively effecting my
idle. He also removed the fast idle. The ISC was maintained due to it's importance for a smooth idle
and proper operation. Other than my rear turbo blowing a seal it ran just fine.

serbRX7

iTrader: (9)

no i didnt get my turbo....it should be here soon by next week i hope ....2 to 3 weeks i was told when i placed the order...

her in Rochester we got lil rotary club started ROCRotary we got like 3 2gen rx7,5-6 rx8,and 2 fd3s that are local and show up to all meets we also have some fd's that come down from NYC and surrounding aria we just working on web site and we got myspace started http://www.myspace.com/rocrotary check it out we take trips all over so if u interested when your fd gets done stop by....


back to the subject

thanks for the diagrams
that always helps

so i am just going to live them coolant lines alone and not mess with it...looks to me like they are needed for thermowax unit to work properly and fast idle machanism

i had some other people tel me that they remove them because they increase intake temp
witch i dont think it would matter for the street car...fd3s under hood temp is catastrophic to begin with ...

correct me on anything if i am wrong

emissions are not a problem for me my car is 94 and her in ny they just look at my tires and brakes

ok this is what i blocked of

1-avc
2-avc tube
3-aws
4-aws tube
5-double throttle
6-egr
7-isc ....---------------------------------------------should i put this back in ..i dont think my was working properly to begin with my idle was bouncing some times in neutral
8-split air...air pump
9oil return line to the back or the engine