the whole under the elbow facing the drivers side, close the firewall.

is that supposed to be closed by something? i think i have a slight oil leak originating from that point.

 

i think you are thinking of the air bleed. there should be a flat head screw in there.

 

might also be thinking of the throttle body coolant lines?...but there shouldn't be any oil in there.

 

That's the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS).

If it's the hole/bung on the actual intake elbow then you'd want to plug that hole.. that would be a pretty major boost leak. If it is the pipe that used to feed that hole before someone disabled the AWS then you'll have to vent it.. and you may get a little oil out of it. Alternatives could be to stick a small breather filter on it or completely eliminate it by removing the AWS plumbing and blocking it off.

..Dave

 

Is she talking about the air mixture screw hole? Meio, is it the hole just under where the elbow mates to the TB, on the right hand side as you look at the TB face? If so, there is no "plug" for this other than the air mixture screw. If you are seeing oil from there, it might be the O-ring on the elbow face is old and worn, allowing oil from the intake (the stuff that's always there!) to leak down, looking like a leak from that point.

 

thanks guys. sparvo gave the closest description as to the hole i am talking about.
its not alot of oil but enough to make 2 or 3 drips on the ground in a 48 hour period (it never drips during the 8-10 hour duration I'm at work).

how far in should it be screwed, is it something similar to doing the air/fuel on a carborator?

 

Right. Flat bladed screwdriver turns the screw. If I recall, you start the engine fully warmed (around 180F) with NO accessories on, including the fans (so do this a little quick before temp rises to turn on fans). Ground the TEN connector on the diagnostics box (little black box near the battery if you haven't done this before). The idle should drop to ~ 750 rpms (technically, I think it's 720, but who can really tell with our tach?). If it is anything OTHER than ~750, you change the position of the screw (dig under the elbow with the screwdriver until it engages the screw...) to get it where it is supposed to be. If you can't get the idle to ~750 with the air bleed screw (yes, it is EXACTLY like the same thing on a carb), turn it out 2 full turns, then start playing with the throttle plate adjuster (straight up and down screw on the front side of the TB) until you get the correct idle. Unground the TEN connector and make sure idle more or less is correct. Turn on lights to see if idle raises to ~850 rpm to check E/L sensor and ISC operation.

About the oil, pull your elbow. Look at the O-ring that is embedded in the face that mates with the TB. Is it flattened? If so, replace it. Cheap fix.

Oil really shouldn't be coming from the air mix screw location. If it was, you would have some idle problems I think.

If you have a non-stock ECU, I can't help you, as I have NO IDEA what the procedures are for setting the idle there, though the principle ought to be similar...

Hope this helps any!