Throttle body coolant removal idle issue
#1
r074r'/ |\|00B
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Throttle body coolant removal idle issue
Saturday I did the throttle body coolant bypass.
http://robrobinette.com/throttle_body_coolant.htm
Instead of doing the safety wire I removed the spring and tightened the screw all the way down.
Now my car idles at 1300 whethe it is a cold start or warm or hot.
Did I overtighten or undertighten the screwn by chance? A problem related to something else?
I checked my powerFC and it is supposed to idle at 900/950/1000 (AE/EL/AC)
http://robrobinette.com/throttle_body_coolant.htm
Instead of doing the safety wire I removed the spring and tightened the screw all the way down.
Now my car idles at 1300 whethe it is a cold start or warm or hot.
Did I overtighten or undertighten the screwn by chance? A problem related to something else?
I checked my powerFC and it is supposed to idle at 900/950/1000 (AE/EL/AC)
#3
rotorhead
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I can't see your throttlebody of course, but try physically rotating the fast idle linkage by hand. Does the idle go down? Under etc--> sensor/sw check in the commander, what does your VTA1 (full range TPS) and VTA2 (narrow range TPS) say? Does rotating the fast idle change the voltage?
#4
r074r'/ |\|00B
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When I push the linkage by hand nothing changes.
vta1 = .44
vta2 = 1.06-1.07
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f-W9Qoy3Co
at :26 you should hear me say "down", which means I am holding fast idle open all the way
vta1 = .44
vta2 = 1.06-1.07
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f-W9Qoy3Co
at :26 you should hear me say "down", which means I am holding fast idle open all the way
#5
rotorhead
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Double check the throttle and cruise cables, there should be 1-2mm freeplay in them. Check for vacuum leaks though. Your TPS voltages are still in spec. If all that checks out then you just have typical PFC idle speed frustration. See this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-make-your-untuned-pfc-basemap-safer-idle-better-no-datalogit-needed-841706/ posts #1. #27. and #28
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