thewird

iTrader: (8)

What boost and how long does he stay on the track for . For some reason this seems unlikely but if he says he does, he does I guess.

thewird

djseven

iTrader: (56)

13-14lbs on the T78, 25 minutes sessions. He has done about 4-5 track days in the last 2-3 weeks in the car all in 90+ degree heat. If you search the forums he has videos of his track days, I think he even posted a video on this forum.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgUyU...e=channel_page

TEDDER1

iTrader: (1)

When i got my scoot hood the temps dropped dramatically. Ive always wanted to build a Vmount setup where when the hood closes, it seals behind the intercooler with a vacuum inducing backward scoop. Sitting in the car you would be able to look down the hood and see in the scoop...

Force it through, and then suck it out with aerodynamics.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Well, it seems like he's rarely on the throttle or not very high RPM, he's not pushing hard enough imo lol. And tell him he should raise his rev limiter on the powerfc to 8500 or 9000, he shouldn't be rev cutting like that, this isn't a Honda .

thewird

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

You need a diversion panel and you need to full duct your Rad/IC. Youre also running the stock front end apparently which had pretty bad flow. Not that it wont work. Just that mahor gains have been reported simply by switching to the 99spec bumper cover.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

i would like to know how the idea got started. i was only stating wat i was told since i, at one time, was set on useing water wetter. if you claim its hearsay then i trust you. i have no proof that it is or isnt but a test to show that its not would be great.

adam

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Adam,
Well ideas like this get started by someone at some time in history cracking open a 100k+ mile abused engine and finding degraded coolant seals that just happened to have used water wetter. Someone looks at the engine and jumps (incorrectly) to the conclusion that it was the wetter that caused the demise of the engine despite the myriad of other more likely potential causes. It's a shame that we, now, here, unfortunately have little to go on but "I knew a guy, who told a guy, that knew guy, who had a friend, whose brother bought an FD that used water wetter that...like...totally...effed up his engine." And so it is...myth.

I've had in excess of two dozen friends and long time owners of FD's bought when they were originally on the market in 1993 and I'd daresay nary a one would attribute any one of their engine failures to the use of water wetter, which many of them have used.

Use it with confidence. It will drop your coolant temps a few degrees across the operating band as it has done for me. Like I mentioned, I opened up my engine and no hint of any seal degradation and I've used wetter since I bought my car in 1996. And A few other engines that reportedly have used water wetter with no ill effects either.

Apologies for my rambling...and now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

Regards,
Crispy

PS I have no affiliation with Redline other than the fact that I've use water wetter in most of my cars for over a decade.

DaveW

One of the most common mistakes made using any anticorrosion additive is to use it with tap or softened water. Use whatever you decide to use with distilled water only.

Dave

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

^^^

Da man! Amen.

Crispy

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

Do you add the whole 12oz bottle of water wetter to your 70-30 mix?

Thanks for all the info Cripsy

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Per the instructions on the bottle and referencing the FSM for coolant volume I think at one point I determined it was about 3/4 of the bottle. You should double check though just to be sure.

Crispy

sp_amend

iTrader: (4)

This is a great thread, I'm learning a lot. Thanks to everyone here.

A few weeks ago, it was about 70+ deg.F outside.

I was stuck in traffic and realized my water temp went up to 129 deg.C., which is supposed to be way too hot and dangerous.

I shut off the engine, popped the hood in the shade and cooled it down.
My car was fine, but... dang... it was scary as hell.

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Thanks David. Been busy at the track and am now on vacation I don't really frequent this section anymore due to I can only take it in small doses. My Water Temp has never been above 87C on the track and my Oil Temp has never been above 220F and generally stays closer to 200-210F. I have the R Magic Oil Cooler ducts that still have to be put on the car, but I'm not in too big of a hurry to do that. Prob. this winter.

I've had plenty of people who have rode in my car at the track that can vouch for my temps. Fritz runs just as cool as I do if not more so... care to comment on his driving since his car runs cooler than yours? I run between 13-15psi and have stayed out before for almost an hour at TGPR. That was in Alabama when the outside temp was 95F and the humidity was horrible.



I have done 9 track days in the last 30 days. Of course some of those were in the MB FD.

I'm perfectly fine with my shift points and where my rev limiter is. As for my driving, anytime you want to come down to the track, I'll be more than happy to get on the track with you and have some fun. Where are you? Canada? and your car is running hotter than mine... better take it back to your mechanic. On a side note, your set up does look very well put together I see a couple of things I wouldn't of done, but no one asked for my opinion.

To the OP, as everyone has beat into the ground, ducting ducting ducting. I also drill my thermostats on twin turbo cars to help with cooling(Crispy's the man when it comes to great ideas like that), but not as much as Crispy. Although, I really think you could completely remove the middle piece(the actual thermostat) and leave the outer edge for sealing and a little regulation and you would be better off on the track. People will argue it will take longer to heat the car up, but it'll get to operating temp. in no time. All I know is that I grew up around racing and I know plenty of people that do this. I also think removing all of the stuff surrounding the radiator, whether it's on or off, makes a larger difference than alot of people think. Every car that I've owned that had the A/C and PS removed has ran cooler and more consistent.

Twin Turbo's are going to generate more heat than the single's do. The best set up twin turbo car that I've seen in regards to heat is SPICcnmFD's(Chris) car. His car doesn't get above 93C I don't believe on the track. We were both at the NASA event at Barber less than a month ago. He was racing TT that weekend as he normally does. I've never been able to get a twin turbo car to do that, but I've never put the time into that he has.

Just for good measure, here is my engine bay. It's dirty as always:

thewird

iTrader: (8)

In Toronto, gonna be at Mosport July 1st if your interested ^_^.

http://www.kensairacing.com/index.ph...id=track_event

I ran a similar setup to the above and ran slightly hotter then when I did my V-mount conversion. I run dual 25 row oil coolers too.

thewird

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Edit: Nevermind... it's not worth my time and the OP has the information he needs and that's all that matters.

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

update:
So tomorrow I will be going to Streets of Willow again and the temps are too be 100+.

I have done the following updates to my car:
-removed a/c condensor
-made ducting for I/C and Radiator
-Installed Pineapple Racing Idler pulley
-Installed EBC yellowstuff brake pads which replaced axxis ultimates

I will be running 10psi again and I will post my water/air temp results. Hopefully I dont go over 100c; that is my goal.

cabaynes

iTrader: (4)

Looks like you need some of our oil coolers:

https://www.rx7club.com/fdnewbie-imports-172/gb-93-95-99-spec-sakebomb-garage-oil-cooler-kits-839910/

/shameless plug

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Look forward to seeing your report. More importantly, I hope everything stays nice and cool so you can enjoy the weekend at the track

Sled Driver

iTrader: (9)

You have a second radiator in your cooling system that works great to stabilized your temps on the track.

Your heater core.

Since you normally have to run with the windowns down, I turn my heater **** to full hot & direct the heat to my feet.

It's amazing how stable & low my temps stay on 80+ degree track day. Granted, if your in the pits or waiting in line to start, you will feel the heat.

EviLPeNeviL

iTrader: (2)

Great thread and advices from everyone. I seriously need to do a track day....

Julian

iTrader: (14)

Must be real slow; I tested water water for 25 continues years on one of my FB rotaries and yes the engine gave out on year 25 due to a stuck apex seal not an o-ring failure.

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

So:

Well I def enjoyed the car more and focused more on learing the track and getting the line down versus tripping out over my water temps.

My car at first was steady at 97c in the morning but later on during the hottest part of the day (102f) I did hit 105c but I was really pushing my car. Im still not happy at all! Better tahn before, but I still want to make my car run alittle bit cooler. Maybe oil cooler kit? I already have dual ducted r1 oil coolers but I will research on that.

EBC yellowstuff brakes with motul 600 worked beautifully. NO fade at all.

------For those of you interested: My lap time was ~1:35 which is not too good. I still need to smooth out my braking and follow the line better. Tires became an issue also. (Im running 225/50/16 RE0-1R's) and I need more grip overall but more so in the back.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Sounds like good results for a 100* ambient day...

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Congrats Armen Not too bad at all for being so hot outside. But seriously... you need WIDER TIRES!!

TimeMachine

iTrader: (10)

nm