For those of you with non-original motors
For those of you with non-original motors
Yo, yo
Delurking ...............
First of all, let me say this is a fantastic site - some of you guys really know what you are talking about.
Just purchased a 93 R1 about a month ago (after some lil bastard stole my Type-R). The car is pretty much stock, except for the some reliability mods (silicone hoses, new radiator) and pod air filters (the ones that suck hot air - soon to be changed).
The motor is original and has 78K on it, so I know that it is only a matter of time before some sort of rebuild / replacement is necessary (hopefully at leat 20K). The thing is, as this car is a DD, I would like to have downtime in the shop kept to a minimum.
Still debating on which direction to go - get a reman, have the orig rebuilt, or get a used J-Spec.
The car would continue to be used as a DD, but I am considering a mild street port, DP, Cat back, ECU, and the other laundry list of mods that would "free up" HP (not really interested in more than 12lb boost).
Curious as to the direction some of you have went when your engine blew - reman, rebuild, Jspec; how long was your down time (I will have to borrow or rent a car during downtime); overall price - for engine and installation; overall level of service. Also, if there was something that you wish you had done but didn't, include that too. Any opinions on the pros / cons of each path chosen, feel free to include.
Thanks in advance,
Michael
Delurking ...............
First of all, let me say this is a fantastic site - some of you guys really know what you are talking about.
Just purchased a 93 R1 about a month ago (after some lil bastard stole my Type-R). The car is pretty much stock, except for the some reliability mods (silicone hoses, new radiator) and pod air filters (the ones that suck hot air - soon to be changed).
The motor is original and has 78K on it, so I know that it is only a matter of time before some sort of rebuild / replacement is necessary (hopefully at leat 20K). The thing is, as this car is a DD, I would like to have downtime in the shop kept to a minimum.
Still debating on which direction to go - get a reman, have the orig rebuilt, or get a used J-Spec.
The car would continue to be used as a DD, but I am considering a mild street port, DP, Cat back, ECU, and the other laundry list of mods that would "free up" HP (not really interested in more than 12lb boost).
Curious as to the direction some of you have went when your engine blew - reman, rebuild, Jspec; how long was your down time (I will have to borrow or rent a car during downtime); overall price - for engine and installation; overall level of service. Also, if there was something that you wish you had done but didn't, include that too. Any opinions on the pros / cons of each path chosen, feel free to include.
Thanks in advance,
Michael
Welcome to the forum
Hermosa Beach eh? That makes about 14 of us all in the same little area of the South Bay
have you had a compression check done yet? That's a good sign of how long you have left, also, a boost gauge will let you know as well. If your vacuum starts getting lower and lower after time...it's a sign of lost compression.
Expect at least a month of downtime if your engine goes on you (and it will) I've been down for almost 2 months now, with my car needing maybe another 2-3 weeks of work before the rebuild/streetport is completed. Im having a hard time getting to work and I wish I had bought a cheap daily driver "just in case"-- the aftermarket warranty I had gave me a false sense of security that my car will be fixed quickly after it goes. Not really the case.
If your motor goes, go with a rebuild and get a lot of stuff done while the engine is out. Dont bother with getting a reman or jspec because one of the better (if not best) rebuilders is right in our area (5-10 mins away)-- while it's out, replace your o2 sensor, thermostat, pulsation damper, downpipe, and get a streetport... you'll save a lot on labor.
you might want to get your fuel injectors cleaned and balanced as well.
thermostat and pulsation damper are two really important ones...the latter causing a good amount of engine fires in 3rd Gens, and the former causing overheating if it fails.
Hermosa Beach eh? That makes about 14 of us all in the same little area of the South Bay
have you had a compression check done yet? That's a good sign of how long you have left, also, a boost gauge will let you know as well. If your vacuum starts getting lower and lower after time...it's a sign of lost compression.
Expect at least a month of downtime if your engine goes on you (and it will) I've been down for almost 2 months now, with my car needing maybe another 2-3 weeks of work before the rebuild/streetport is completed. Im having a hard time getting to work and I wish I had bought a cheap daily driver "just in case"-- the aftermarket warranty I had gave me a false sense of security that my car will be fixed quickly after it goes. Not really the case.
If your motor goes, go with a rebuild and get a lot of stuff done while the engine is out. Dont bother with getting a reman or jspec because one of the better (if not best) rebuilders is right in our area (5-10 mins away)-- while it's out, replace your o2 sensor, thermostat, pulsation damper, downpipe, and get a streetport... you'll save a lot on labor.
you might want to get your fuel injectors cleaned and balanced as well.
thermostat and pulsation damper are two really important ones...the latter causing a good amount of engine fires in 3rd Gens, and the former causing overheating if it fails.
I went the reman route on my 93 touring DD but during the 3 month down time I had the use of a loaner T-II from the shop. If I had it to do over I would get a used (Salvage or Jspec) engine and have it rebuilt at the first sign of impending failure. - My car had low compression & vacuume for 3 months befor popping a water seal. I plan on buying a spare motor and buildig it up within a couple years as a spare -I plan on keeping my FD for a LONG LONG TIME.
or until I can afford a Ferrari 550 Maranello
or until I can afford a Ferrari 550 Maranello
blew my first motor on 86k (not my fault i swear). went the reman route, they seem to get cheaper and cheaper every year. took it to a place in san clemente (auto medix rotory specialist), did a reman and brand new turbo install in 8 days for a great price. i was pretty impressed. ive had intake/DP/catback/ECU at 12psi for 47k on that reman with no problems at all. driving 600 miles a week so it daily drives great. but next time im definatly getting the street port
I went the rebuild route so I could improve on some things. I had the rotors lightened and ballanced and ceramic apex seals installed. Also some oil and water passage work done. One thing you can think about if you go with a rebuild is to do the job before the engine goes. The reason is that sometimes when an apex seal goes it takes other parts with it.......like housings, rotors, turbos, end plates. A broken apex seal hacks its way out of the engine. If you rebuild before a melt down you may save $ on engine parts. I say may because these parts could be out of there service limit anyway.
Kevin
Kevin
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Originally posted by BlackR1
If your motor goes, go with a rebuild and get a lot of stuff done while the engine is out. Dont bother with getting a reman or jspec because one of the better (if not best) rebuilders is right in our area (5-10 mins away)--
If your motor goes, go with a rebuild and get a lot of stuff done while the engine is out. Dont bother with getting a reman or jspec because one of the better (if not best) rebuilders is right in our area (5-10 mins away)--
Later, Jeff
locally...
the best local engine builder is Nick at Rotary Reliability and Racing in Santa Ana. Period. Hes been doing rotaries for 20 years and knows third gens like the back of his hand.
my engine is being finished up by him and he does all my work when i do not have the time to do it myself.
rotary reliability and racing 714-839-8018
he is the most reasonable as well in terms of pricing.
you'll need to do the streetport for sure...it wakes that little engine up....and get your injectors, the Power FC, and Fuel pump done at that time if you can afford it...as well as the Downpipe and Catback....most likely though..your turbos will be cracked to bits so youll have to do them if they are...of course the radiator and IC upgrades will be musts...gosh the list is long.
you have a lot of fun ahead of you....
jason
my engine is being finished up by him and he does all my work when i do not have the time to do it myself.
rotary reliability and racing 714-839-8018
he is the most reasonable as well in terms of pricing.
you'll need to do the streetport for sure...it wakes that little engine up....and get your injectors, the Power FC, and Fuel pump done at that time if you can afford it...as well as the Downpipe and Catback....most likely though..your turbos will be cracked to bits so youll have to do them if they are...of course the radiator and IC upgrades will be musts...gosh the list is long.

you have a lot of fun ahead of you....
jason
Let's not turn this into a "this guy is the BEST rebuilder ever" - there are other threads for that.
I like the idea of having an engine ready to drop in once this one goes. Hopefully, it will have all the goodies in place (streeport) before this one dies.
Let me list my understanding / questions of the 3 options -
Option I - Reman
questions - can a streetport be done prior to installation? or do the Maz dealers require that they drop in the engine for warranty purposes?
Core return required - how long before I have to return core?
Decent warranty
Option II - JSpec / Salvage
No core return required
Streeporting / other porting an option
Minimal warranty / crapshoot on reliability
Option III - Rebuild
Core return required
Streeporting / other porting an option
Decent warranty (depending on machanic)
Thanks for all your help guys,
M
I like the idea of having an engine ready to drop in once this one goes. Hopefully, it will have all the goodies in place (streeport) before this one dies.
Let me list my understanding / questions of the 3 options -
Option I - Reman
questions - can a streetport be done prior to installation? or do the Maz dealers require that they drop in the engine for warranty purposes?
Core return required - how long before I have to return core?
Decent warranty
Option II - JSpec / Salvage
No core return required
Streeporting / other porting an option
Minimal warranty / crapshoot on reliability
Option III - Rebuild
Core return required
Streeporting / other porting an option
Decent warranty (depending on machanic)
Thanks for all your help guys,
M







