I purchased the eastwood fender rolling tool.

It made rolling the fenders a snap! With a heat gun, no chipping of paint!

The only trick I would advise is to remove the fender liner screws on the front wheels, otherwise you will push the tip of the screw into your sheet metal.

I have stock tires on right now so I can't tell...but how much should you roll the fender.

For the rears, the top lip is past vertical, but I am worried that I did not extend it enough down the sides....due to the shape of the well and tool its hard to get. Right now the folded lip starts to blend back around the 10 and 2 o'clock position.

Also, for the fronts...how agressively did you roll it? The reason I ask is that there isn't as much metal to roll. Also, you can only extend the roll so far until you hit the urthane bumper up front, and the stiffer sheet metal toward the rear.

I think I will be fine with the fitment on my new wheels, however, I wanted to get this all done as its going back to the body shop for another paint and don't want to risk rolling the fender in the future with the new paint. Thanks

 

I catch the front fender lip at about 10 o'clock on the driver side and 2 o'clock on the passenger side. This only happens on 245/45/16 race tires with a whole lot of steering input and the front end completely compressed.