i just replaced the thermostat and the car keeps boiling over....the water temp on my power fc is flying up when i was told its supposed to be at a steady 87c When i turn the car off and go back 5minutes later to try n start it back up the temp reads even hotter! how is the car getting hotter when its off? !? i generally had to wait an hour to an hour n half in between startup, shut offf and restart...... i also have a petit air seperator but im not sure if its working right....is the cap supposed to be on when i fill the car with antifreeze? or do i open the little red valve or close it all the way.....im so confused help some1

 

Well, if the thermostat was stuck closed, no coolant would reach your radiator at all, and it'd just boil happily away inside the engine. Check the installation of your thermostat.

Check the radiator hoses and radiator itself, do they get hot after running the engine?

 

well this may be a stupid question but when installing the new thermostat the "handle **** switch" looking side goes towards the front of the car and the spring side where u push gets put in so that when u look at it all u can see is the **** side and not the spring correct....? or did i screw even that up

 

by the way i bought my thermostat from pepboys now that i think of it even though the guy sed it was for an rx7...i dont trust him....do i need a specific thermostat? ***plus that little metal peice that hangs through a hole on the new thermostat wasnt there...the silver disc had no small hole in it at all...im guessing that is some sort of valve......i am assuming the rx7 needs a different type of thermostat?

 

I have a power FC with the commander and I know what you are talking about.
The car will stay at a steady 87 C but when you shut the car off the coolant will stop flowing and the heat in the engine will start to accumilate in just one part of the coolant system and it will get hella hot in there.... as a result I will get 120-130 C right after the car is off for 1 min. So that is normal.... but when you start the car... it will go back to 87.
So... your safe~~~

 

You need to replace the "Pepboy" thermostat with a Mazda OEM one, the "silver disk" blocks a bypass when the thermostat opens. You'll need to burp the cooling system after your done.

 

There's your first problem, get the thermostat from the dealer, second sounds like it's in backwards. You want the thermostat with the little thingy hanging through the little hole in it. I'm looking for a picture that shows the orientation of the thermostata and will post it soon as I locate it. In the mean time go get a factory thermostat.

 

Here's what how the thermostat should go.

 

that is correct....i just did mine not to long ago...to recap what was stated...burp the system...air bubbles can cause that so ive heard...also was stated to disconnect the tb coolent line as u fill up the system...and my thermo is from autozone....(zzzziiiipppp!!!). havnet had any probz (yet)

-steve

 

no its not, the jiggle pin goes at the top (the little tiny hole at the bottom of the actual thermostat)

clsoe though! :oD Check the FSM's on iluvmyrx7

Im not sure how much difference it makes though.

 

oh damn...i think hes right dude...sorry bout that..didnt even notice u had one..mine didnt have one..

 

When troubleshooting, it's always best to see what was done last and look there. If you had no problem before the thermostat install, inspect it and any belts that may have been loosened or removed.

As someone else explained, when you shut the car off it heat soaks and you'll get spot temperatures very high. You don't need to open the air seperator to add anti freeze although I sometimes flip the lever to help "burp" the system. Also the picture of the thermostat is wrong as the jiggle pin should be towards the top.

 

also make sure you have your belts routed correctly, if the water pump is spinning backwards or not spinning at all youll have problems.

 

Your kidding right ? ? ? ? What difference does it make where the giggle pin is, I'm open to learning something new, so if there's a reason lets hear it.

 

The jiggle pin at the top will help to bleed the system of air, but it will not cause it to boil over constantly. Either your water system is blocked, your water pump isnt working or you have a huge airlock somewhere. Check these first.

 

Were assuming the thermostat isn't opening at all ? ? ? and the hole with the jiggle pin is doing all the baypassing ? ? ? I would think once the thermostat opens the jiggle pin is a mute point. I guess my biggest concern here is that i paid no attention to the orientation of this hole with the pin in it and have had no problems in two years.

 

The "jiggle pin" and its hole are also (in add'n to bleeding air) there to assure that some small amount of water flows through the thermostat when it is closed to assure that the wax cylinder (that opens the stat) sees water at engine temperature, and opens when it should.

 

No, not kidding. Jiggle pin oriented towards the 12:00 position allows air to flow past the closed thermostat. This makes it easier to refill the system with coolant, and reduce trapped air bubbles, after it's been drained. The shop manual has an installation note for the thermostat on page E-15.

 

Tom,
You have to burp the system after changing the coolant. Most of the time you'll get an air bubble that blcks coolant flow.
John

 

Do you know how to burp the system Tom?

 

helpful sites:

http://www.fd3s.net/table_of_contents.html

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com

 

ok 2 more questions...... is the ast supposed to be filled with coolant...if so how much....do i manualy fill it or should the car do it automatically?



and on a another note.....my rear directional lights r out as well as the arrows on my dash...no blown fuses any where that i no of where would the fuse be for that and wat else could the problem be....maybe falty wire? i still here a faint clicking sound for the arrows though

 

Well now this is great, this is some information that never would have come to light if I had to read the manual. I love it when I learn something new on here (even the trivial littlest thing) Thanks guy's Jack PS. This is the excuse I've needed to get that polished throttle body on. Drain some of the coolant, remove and double check thermostat orientation, change out TB and refill coolant (may or may not bypass the thermowax portion of the TB.

 

I just recently had a lot of mysterious boiling in my engine. I thought the coolant seals were bad. Then I started seeing coolant leaks near the upper radiator hose. Did an inspection and the hoses were fine. I looked over at the coolant reservoir and noticed coolant seeping out of the breather hole on top. I was like WTF. It turned out that my reservoir was over filled and fluid was blocking the breather hole. This didn't allow the AST to properly vent the air bubbles out through the reservoir. I had to siphon the coolant down to the normal level and now everything is fine again. So if you have excessive boiling noises, check the reservoir's coolant level.

 

oh, started to sound like a blown coolant seal there.

I used to have a problem where it seemed as thought my thermostat was stuck shut. so i ended up replacing it and i was still having the problem. And i finally accepted the fact my engine was blown.

so what i did for a couple of months was removed the thermostat completely. And i drove about 20 miles to school everyday and back and it would start to fully get real hot right when i got there. Til the point it got so bad it would eat the coolant up on like a 15 minute drive haha. dont try this at home kids.