Is there a product that will remove sediment from OEM turbo cooling passages ?
Is there a product that will remove sediment from OEM turbo cooling passages ?
While installing my turbos on a new 13B block I noticed a fair amount of white to tan colored sediment or residue inside coolant return lines + coolant feed lines. I think it's safe to assume there is similar sediment inside turbos that might impair cooling to some degree.
I was able to clean the banjo bolts by simply using penetrating oil.
Is there a product I can inject into the turbo passages + lines only
that will disolve most of this sediment so that I can flush it out with distilled water ?
I'm thinking in terms of CLR or a similar product, although I have no idea what the sediment is actually.
Broken down antifreeze and calcium perhaps ?
Unfortunately, I have no history from the previous owner.
I will probably try the same with the radiator or replace it,
if there isn't a product that works well.
Turbos are in good condition otherwise.
Thanks to anyone who's found a solution outside of replacement.
I was able to clean the banjo bolts by simply using penetrating oil.
Is there a product I can inject into the turbo passages + lines only
that will disolve most of this sediment so that I can flush it out with distilled water ?
I'm thinking in terms of CLR or a similar product, although I have no idea what the sediment is actually.
Broken down antifreeze and calcium perhaps ?
Unfortunately, I have no history from the previous owner.
I will probably try the same with the radiator or replace it,
if there isn't a product that works well.
Turbos are in good condition otherwise.
Thanks to anyone who's found a solution outside of replacement.
Last edited by BLK 93; Oct 23, 2015 at 04:33 PM.
Not sure if there's a good way to do it without the potiential of harming the coolant seals in the engine.
However, running 50/50 antifreeze and DISTILLED WATER makes a big difference. A gallon of distilled water is less than a dollar at the grocery store. Tap water has a lot of particulates and minerals in it that you don't want.
That said, most every set of turbos I've been through has had some funk on the banjo bolts. I don't know if that is truly representative of the rest of the coolant passages, as they see a LOT of high localized temps there. Also, I don't think that's causing a problem as long as they aren't fully plugged up or full of debris, the turbos are primarily oil cooled and they have a water jacket around the bearings.
Dale
However, running 50/50 antifreeze and DISTILLED WATER makes a big difference. A gallon of distilled water is less than a dollar at the grocery store. Tap water has a lot of particulates and minerals in it that you don't want.
That said, most every set of turbos I've been through has had some funk on the banjo bolts. I don't know if that is truly representative of the rest of the coolant passages, as they see a LOT of high localized temps there. Also, I don't think that's causing a problem as long as they aren't fully plugged up or full of debris, the turbos are primarily oil cooled and they have a water jacket around the bearings.
Dale
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 489
From: okinawa to tampa
clr works great on removing all that stuff. i used it on all the parts i could when my engine was apart. i wouldnt recommend using on a running engine. i would remove the part, soak it for no more than 24 hours, wire wheel or wire brush then a good rinse.
if you let it soak too long then all the stuff that falls off of it will actually reattach and become some harder mineral that clr cant get off. i actually have no idea how to remove it. i know because i made this mistake. it wont do this if you have some way of suspending the part in the liquid so that all the sediments fall to the bottom of whatever container youre using
if you let it soak too long then all the stuff that falls off of it will actually reattach and become some harder mineral that clr cant get off. i actually have no idea how to remove it. i know because i made this mistake. it wont do this if you have some way of suspending the part in the liquid so that all the sediments fall to the bottom of whatever container youre using
There is a product over here, used for descaling high nickel content materials, trade name is Ardrox 1873. It isn't very retail consumer friendly, coming in drums and normally used with heat...and definitely not the sort of thing you want on your skin or in your eyes. Turbos would have to be disassembled. You might find an aircraft maintenance place using it or similar - unless the passageways are really, really bad I'd leave well enough alone.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Thor 18
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
5
Sep 28, 2015 07:35 PM
BLUE TII
Single Turbo RX-7's
10
Sep 26, 2015 10:12 PM






