Do you still have an air pump? I believe this may be part of the reason mine all of a sudden one day started running different. I can literally turn my water pump pulley easily with my hand. I am going to be getting either the pineapple or chadwick idler pulley set up to give more grip around it.

 

^^ Wow, those are some chilly water and oil temps for being on the track. Care to share your secrets

 

matty also check your fans are runing at capacity. The same thing happened to me a few years back. I went from a solid 85C to mid 90's for no reason. It turns out my fans where runing weak.

 

that's easy, GTC front bumper w/ well ducted v mount along w/ big 25 row unducted oil coolers but also remember I'm only making between 325 and 350 and maybe less these days because the engine is getting tired.

when I was driving Brad Barbers old car w/ the GTC, ASP SMIC and killer ducting for both radiator and oil coolers his car wouldn't see 200 plus on water or coolant. I had to duct tape one complete oil cooler and ran with low water temps of 155 when it was cooler in the fall and spring.

When setup correctly these cars will run at 400 rwhp all day long even in 100 degree CA weather

 

Stock thermostat is 190, which is too hot in my opinion. Here is some ducting I did

 

Hey some pics! Looks good, man and tastefully done.

 

Damn, that picture is from the reagan administration

 

i havent had my airpump for 5 yrs or more. the car runs awesome. it just runs hotter than it did. the car gets to 94 then it starts to drop back down to 87. this is constant not once in a while. it used to get to 88 and just sit there between 87 and 88. wierd. its gotta be something electronic (the computer). if the tstat was faulty i would see a range of numbers with flucuations and so on. this is constant up to 94 then back down to 87.

 

that sounds more like it. its almost like the fans cant do it alone anymore. i believe (i could be wrong) the tstat opens at 94 and prior to that its just the fans cooling it. so that would make perfect sense. how do i test them?

so what did you end up doing? how did you fix it? did u get new fans?

also, guys i sprayed down my rad and oil cooler this weekend with forced water. but nothing. i really think its my fans especially given they werent designed to run as frequent as i have been running them for the past 7-8 yrs.

 

why 94 though? what is significant about his exact degree? maybe we can find the solution if we know exactly whats happening at this degree.

i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.

 

94ºC is when my fans turn on in my car. Any temperature under 94ºC and they turn off.

 

Maybe you already mentioned this, but have you put in a colder T-Stat?
Are you running stock fans?

 

Not sure if you posted this already, but when was the last time you flushed your coolant, both from the rad and the block?

 

That really is the cheapest, easiest thing to try. My car on 1.5 year old coolant started doing the same thing. Just changed coolant and car is back to normal - less temp spiking and fluctuation. Drained the block, pulled and drained the rad.

Actually, now that I think of it... t-stat is new also so could have been either coolant or new t-stat in my case.

 

just drained it 3k miles ago. had this issue before i flushed as well.

ok np....i will do the t-stat.

 

Have you guys tried the GReddy 1.3kg/cm2 (18.5 psi) higher pressure radiator cap?

I do not run this but was curious if higher pressures help keep water temps down and if anyone has had positive results from using this cap or facsimile thereof.

 

maybe there is a correlation to the air pump removal.

When my car was bone stock 2-3years ago, I could flip my fan switch on and my temps would come down quickly to 180F even in 105F temps.

Now, while cruising the car stays around 185-190 in hot weather sometimes sits at 200 even with fans turned on.

Come to think of it, I can turn my waterpump with my hand if I try.

 

Its called belt slippage. Your waterpump is not working as efficiently it should. That is why people developed the idler pulley for those that removed their air pumps.

 

What idler pulley are you talking about, do you have a product name, part number ??

I have my air pump removed and have the bigger water pump pulley like this:



I remember putting this on thinking will this be enough to run the water pump?

 

Here is one:
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/air-pump-deletion-idler-pulley-kit-807734/

Search for more info on that topic.

 

You can't be serious. I always thought 80 was a good temp. 70 is your high end temperature? I don't run my car on the track but I always flog it a bit on the highway at around 70 - 80. UGH. I'm glad I'm upgrading my IC to an M2 medium but I doubt I'll be getting a steady 55 or even 70.

 

Something is wrong with your car, I can sit in traffic for an hour and not reach 70c with a greddy smic. Is your stock intercooler ducted?

 

Does he even have an intercooler with those temps

 

Fritz is talking Celcius. Are you talking Fahrenheit?

 

Check out this thread of mine: Pineapple idler pulley

I've had my not-so-track-prepped car on the track recently for two 20 minute sessions and had zero water cooling problems (oil was a different story)... but of course there are a lot of things that affect the outcome of your fluid temps... IMHO, if you ditch your airpump and really beat on the car you should have one of these, I would consider a must have if you track the thing.