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temps are higher now??

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Old 06-07-09, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by matty
also i should add that this only happens when its warmer out, say 75 plus. the car will get up to 94 then cool back down to 87. the thing is this it used to NEVER get to 94. it would just get to 88 and sit there. does that sound like a failing t-stat?
Do you still have an air pump? I believe this may be part of the reason mine all of a sudden one day started running different. I can literally turn my water pump pulley easily with my hand. I am going to be getting either the pineapple or chadwick idler pulley set up to give more grip around it.
Old 06-07-09, 11:06 PM
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Question "cool" oil temps on track

Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
My current car will run 190 water and 225 oil on a 100 degree day which I'm ok w/ but I really need to duct my oil coolers asap.
^^ Wow, those are some chilly water and oil temps for being on the track. Care to share your secrets
Old 06-08-09, 11:00 AM
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matty also check your fans are runing at capacity. The same thing happened to me a few years back. I went from a solid 85C to mid 90's for no reason. It turns out my fans where runing weak.
Old 06-08-09, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mdpalmer
^^ Wow, those are some chilly water and oil temps for being on the track. Care to share your secrets
that's easy, GTC front bumper w/ well ducted v mount along w/ big 25 row unducted oil coolers but also remember I'm only making between 325 and 350 and maybe less these days because the engine is getting tired.

when I was driving Brad Barbers old car w/ the GTC, ASP SMIC and killer ducting for both radiator and oil coolers his car wouldn't see 200 plus on water or coolant. I had to duct tape one complete oil cooler and ran with low water temps of 155 when it was cooler in the fall and spring.

When setup correctly these cars will run at 400 rwhp all day long even in 100 degree CA weather
Old 06-08-09, 03:06 PM
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Stock thermostat is 190, which is too hot in my opinion. Here is some ducting I did
Attached Thumbnails temps are higher now??-shark-mod.jpg  
Old 06-08-09, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotary Experiment Seven
Stock thermostat is 190, which is too hot in my opinion. Here is some ducting I did
Hey some pics! Looks good, man and tastefully done.
Old 06-08-09, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotary Experiment Seven
Stock thermostat is 190, which is too hot in my opinion. Here is some ducting I did
Damn, that picture is from the reagan administration
Old 06-08-09, 07:32 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by FearNoPiston
Do you still have an air pump? I believe this may be part of the reason mine all of a sudden one day started running different. I can literally turn my water pump pulley easily with my hand. I am going to be getting either the pineapple or chadwick idler pulley set up to give more grip around it.
i havent had my airpump for 5 yrs or more. the car runs awesome. it just runs hotter than it did. the car gets to 94 then it starts to drop back down to 87. this is constant not once in a while. it used to get to 88 and just sit there between 87 and 88. wierd. its gotta be something electronic (the computer). if the tstat was faulty i would see a range of numbers with flucuations and so on. this is constant up to 94 then back down to 87.
Old 06-08-09, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by montego
matty also check your fans are runing at capacity. The same thing happened to me a few years back. I went from a solid 85C to mid 90's for no reason. It turns out my fans where runing weak.
that sounds more like it. its almost like the fans cant do it alone anymore. i believe (i could be wrong) the tstat opens at 94 and prior to that its just the fans cooling it. so that would make perfect sense. how do i test them?

so what did you end up doing? how did you fix it? did u get new fans?

also, guys i sprayed down my rad and oil cooler this weekend with forced water. but nothing. i really think its my fans especially given they werent designed to run as frequent as i have been running them for the past 7-8 yrs.
Old 06-08-09, 07:44 PM
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why 94 though? what is significant about his exact degree? maybe we can find the solution if we know exactly whats happening at this degree.

i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
Old 06-08-09, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by matty
why 94 though? what is significant about his exact degree? maybe we can find the solution if we know exactly whats happening at this degree.

i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
94ºC is when my fans turn on in my car. Any temperature under 94ºC and they turn off.
Old 06-08-09, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by matty
why 94 though? what is significant about his exact degree? maybe we can find the solution if we know exactly whats happening at this degree.

i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
Maybe you already mentioned this, but have you put in a colder T-Stat?
Are you running stock fans?
Old 06-09-09, 07:10 AM
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Not sure if you posted this already, but when was the last time you flushed your coolant, both from the rad and the block?
Old 06-09-09, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Not sure if you posted this already, but when was the last time you flushed your coolant, both from the rad and the block?

That really is the cheapest, easiest thing to try. My car on 1.5 year old coolant started doing the same thing. Just changed coolant and car is back to normal - less temp spiking and fluctuation. Drained the block, pulled and drained the rad.

Actually, now that I think of it... t-stat is new also so could have been either coolant or new t-stat in my case.
Old 06-09-09, 09:40 AM
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just drained it 3k miles ago. had this issue before i flushed as well.

ok np....i will do the t-stat.
Old 06-09-09, 03:09 PM
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Have you guys tried the GReddy 1.3kg/cm2 (18.5 psi) higher pressure radiator cap?

I do not run this but was curious if higher pressures help keep water temps down and if anyone has had positive results from using this cap or facsimile thereof.
Old 06-09-09, 06:57 PM
  #42  
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maybe there is a correlation to the air pump removal.

When my car was bone stock 2-3years ago, I could flip my fan switch on and my temps would come down quickly to 180F even in 105F temps.

Now, while cruising the car stays around 185-190 in hot weather sometimes sits at 200 even with fans turned on.

Come to think of it, I can turn my waterpump with my hand if I try.
Old 06-10-09, 01:21 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
maybe there is a correlation to the air pump removal.

When my car was bone stock 2-3years ago, I could flip my fan switch on and my temps would come down quickly to 180F even in 105F temps.

Now, while cruising the car stays around 185-190 in hot weather sometimes sits at 200 even with fans turned on.

Come to think of it, I can turn my waterpump with my hand if I try.

Its called belt slippage. Your waterpump is not working as efficiently it should. That is why people developed the idler pulley for those that removed their air pumps.
Old 06-10-09, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
Its called belt slippage. Your waterpump is not working as efficiently it should. That is why people developed the idler pulley for those that removed their air pumps.
What idler pulley are you talking about, do you have a product name, part number ??

I have my air pump removed and have the bigger water pump pulley like this:



I remember putting this on thinking will this be enough to run the water pump?
Old 06-10-09, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rollogic
What idler pulley are you talking about, do you have a product name, part number ??
Here is one:
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/air-pump-deletion-idler-pulley-kit-807734/

Search for more info on that topic.
Old 06-10-09, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
VERY important, never ever let your intake temps go to 70c no matter how well your car is tuned etc..... IMO you shouldn't go above 55c and this is just as important as worrying about your water and oil temps because your engine will die a quick death if it detonates.
You can't be serious. I always thought 80 was a good temp. 70 is your high end temperature? I don't run my car on the track but I always flog it a bit on the highway at around 70 - 80. UGH. I'm glad I'm upgrading my IC to an M2 medium but I doubt I'll be getting a steady 55 or even 70.
Old 06-10-09, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Supernaut
You can't be serious. I always thought 80 was a good temp. 70 is your high end temperature? I don't run my car on the track but I always flog it a bit on the highway at around 70 - 80. UGH. I'm glad I'm upgrading my IC to an M2 medium but I doubt I'll be getting a steady 55 or even 70.
Something is wrong with your car, I can sit in traffic for an hour and not reach 70c with a greddy smic. Is your stock intercooler ducted?
Old 06-10-09, 04:58 PM
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Does he even have an intercooler with those temps
Old 06-10-09, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Supernaut
You can't be serious. I always thought 80 was a good temp. 70 is your high end temperature? I don't run my car on the track but I always flog it a bit on the highway at around 70 - 80. UGH. I'm glad I'm upgrading my IC to an M2 medium but I doubt I'll be getting a steady 55 or even 70.
Fritz is talking Celcius. Are you talking Fahrenheit?
Old 06-10-09, 10:39 PM
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Lightbulb Pineapple idler pulley

Originally Posted by Rollogic
What idler pulley are you talking about, do you have a product name, part number ??

I have my air pump removed and have the bigger water pump pulley like this:



I remember putting this on thinking will this be enough to run the water pump?
Check out this thread of mine: Pineapple idler pulley

I've had my not-so-track-prepped car on the track recently for two 20 minute sessions and had zero water cooling problems (oil was a different story)... but of course there are a lot of things that affect the outcome of your fluid temps... IMHO, if you ditch your airpump and really beat on the car you should have one of these, I would consider a must have if you track the thing.


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