temps are higher now??
#26
FREAK ALL OUT!!!
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you still have an air pump? I believe this may be part of the reason mine all of a sudden one day started running different. I can literally turn my water pump pulley easily with my hand. I am going to be getting either the pineapple or chadwick idler pulley set up to give more grip around it.
#29
All out Track Freak!
iTrader: (263)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Charlottesville VA 22901
Posts: 10,672
Received 412 Likes
on
250 Posts
when I was driving Brad Barbers old car w/ the GTC, ASP SMIC and killer ducting for both radiator and oil coolers his car wouldn't see 200 plus on water or coolant. I had to duct tape one complete oil cooler and ran with low water temps of 155 when it was cooler in the fall and spring.
When setup correctly these cars will run at 400 rwhp all day long even in 100 degree CA weather
#33
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Do you still have an air pump? I believe this may be part of the reason mine all of a sudden one day started running different. I can literally turn my water pump pulley easily with my hand. I am going to be getting either the pineapple or chadwick idler pulley set up to give more grip around it.
#34
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
so what did you end up doing? how did you fix it? did u get new fans?
also, guys i sprayed down my rad and oil cooler this weekend with forced water. but nothing. i really think its my fans especially given they werent designed to run as frequent as i have been running them for the past 7-8 yrs.
#35
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
why 94 though? what is significant about his exact degree? maybe we can find the solution if we know exactly whats happening at this degree.
i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
#36
¿¿What are pistons??
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Queens NYC
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why 94 though? what is significant about his exact degree? maybe we can find the solution if we know exactly whats happening at this degree.
i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
#37
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why 94 though? what is significant about his exact degree? maybe we can find the solution if we know exactly whats happening at this degree.
i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
i know its a meaningful level. on completely stock cars when u have your lights on the car will begin cooling at this level when the lights are off i believe it was 99 or 100. so something is happening @ 94.
Are you running stock fans?
#39
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
That really is the cheapest, easiest thing to try. My car on 1.5 year old coolant started doing the same thing. Just changed coolant and car is back to normal - less temp spiking and fluctuation. Drained the block, pulled and drained the rad.
Actually, now that I think of it... t-stat is new also so could have been either coolant or new t-stat in my case.
#41
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you guys tried the GReddy 1.3kg/cm2 (18.5 psi) higher pressure radiator cap?
I do not run this but was curious if higher pressures help keep water temps down and if anyone has had positive results from using this cap or facsimile thereof.
I do not run this but was curious if higher pressures help keep water temps down and if anyone has had positive results from using this cap or facsimile thereof.
#42
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
maybe there is a correlation to the air pump removal.
When my car was bone stock 2-3years ago, I could flip my fan switch on and my temps would come down quickly to 180F even in 105F temps.
Now, while cruising the car stays around 185-190 in hot weather sometimes sits at 200 even with fans turned on.
Come to think of it, I can turn my waterpump with my hand if I try.
When my car was bone stock 2-3years ago, I could flip my fan switch on and my temps would come down quickly to 180F even in 105F temps.
Now, while cruising the car stays around 185-190 in hot weather sometimes sits at 200 even with fans turned on.
Come to think of it, I can turn my waterpump with my hand if I try.
#43
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
maybe there is a correlation to the air pump removal.
When my car was bone stock 2-3years ago, I could flip my fan switch on and my temps would come down quickly to 180F even in 105F temps.
Now, while cruising the car stays around 185-190 in hot weather sometimes sits at 200 even with fans turned on.
Come to think of it, I can turn my waterpump with my hand if I try.
When my car was bone stock 2-3years ago, I could flip my fan switch on and my temps would come down quickly to 180F even in 105F temps.
Now, while cruising the car stays around 185-190 in hot weather sometimes sits at 200 even with fans turned on.
Come to think of it, I can turn my waterpump with my hand if I try.
Its called belt slippage. Your waterpump is not working as efficiently it should. That is why people developed the idler pulley for those that removed their air pumps.
#44
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have my air pump removed and have the bigger water pump pulley like this:
I remember putting this on thinking will this be enough to run the water pump?
#45
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/air-pump-deletion-idler-pulley-kit-807734/
Search for more info on that topic.
#46
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (83)
VERY important, never ever let your intake temps go to 70c no matter how well your car is tuned etc..... IMO you shouldn't go above 55c and this is just as important as worrying about your water and oil temps because your engine will die a quick death if it detonates.
#47
FREAK ALL OUT!!!
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can't be serious. I always thought 80 was a good temp. 70 is your high end temperature? I don't run my car on the track but I always flog it a bit on the highway at around 70 - 80. UGH. I'm glad I'm upgrading my IC to an M2 medium but I doubt I'll be getting a steady 55 or even 70.
#49
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
You can't be serious. I always thought 80 was a good temp. 70 is your high end temperature? I don't run my car on the track but I always flog it a bit on the highway at around 70 - 80. UGH. I'm glad I'm upgrading my IC to an M2 medium but I doubt I'll be getting a steady 55 or even 70.
#50
T O R Q U E!
iTrader: (24)
Pineapple idler pulley
I've had my not-so-track-prepped car on the track recently for two 20 minute sessions and had zero water cooling problems (oil was a different story)... but of course there are a lot of things that affect the outcome of your fluid temps... IMHO, if you ditch your airpump and really beat on the car you should have one of these, I would consider a must have if you track the thing.