Taking off Oil Sending Unit to clean:...will it work better afterwards?
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Taking off Oil Sending Unit to clean:...will it work better afterwards?
My oil pressure marks above 80psi when the car is first started every morning. But then the engine warms-up and the oil pressure drops to almost zero at idle. Only marks 15 to 20 when driving in town.
I was thinking of taking off the Oil Sending Unit in the morning for a good cleaning. It's my first time in doing this. Thinking of just "flushing" it out and cleaning it thoroughly.
Q.) Will it work as good as a new one after the cleaning, i.e., produce constant accurate oil pressure?
Q.) Or should I just buy a new OEM unit from Malloy?
Has anyone ever attempted to clean their O/S/U, if so, what was the result. Thanks for looking.
I was thinking of taking off the Oil Sending Unit in the morning for a good cleaning. It's my first time in doing this. Thinking of just "flushing" it out and cleaning it thoroughly.
Q.) Will it work as good as a new one after the cleaning, i.e., produce constant accurate oil pressure?
Q.) Or should I just buy a new OEM unit from Malloy?
Has anyone ever attempted to clean their O/S/U, if so, what was the result. Thanks for looking.
#2
Rotary Freak
Try it but I will bet that it will not be work better . That is an educated quess . It will not take lone to clean so try it . After several days use let us know what you learned .If it works you saved some money . If not you will be good at changing the sender .hehehehehe
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The only thing that you can 'clean' on the oil sender is the flat spade for the connector. Therefore, there's little value in removing. FYI - it can be removed and installed without getting under the car, but it's sort of a pain.
Checking and/or cleaning the spade and its mating connector with spray contact cleaner won't hurt, but for my money you're most likely looking at a failing pressure sender. Of course I'm assuming you've already verified the oil weight and level, etc.
Least likely but possible is that your engine's thermal pellet has failed. If you're not familiar with this little guy, it's installed behind the bolt that holds the front pulley in place and is designed to 'leak' oil away from the rotors until the oil temperature climbs above 140 F; thereby giving faster warm-up, etc. Whatever you do, don't just pull the bult out without reading up on this procedure becuase you can easily damage your engine.
Checking and/or cleaning the spade and its mating connector with spray contact cleaner won't hurt, but for my money you're most likely looking at a failing pressure sender. Of course I'm assuming you've already verified the oil weight and level, etc.
Least likely but possible is that your engine's thermal pellet has failed. If you're not familiar with this little guy, it's installed behind the bolt that holds the front pulley in place and is designed to 'leak' oil away from the rotors until the oil temperature climbs above 140 F; thereby giving faster warm-up, etc. Whatever you do, don't just pull the bult out without reading up on this procedure becuase you can easily damage your engine.
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Originally posted by FDjunkie
The only thing that you can 'clean' on the oil sender is the flat spade for the connector. Therefore, there's little value in removing
The only thing that you can 'clean' on the oil sender is the flat spade for the connector. Therefore, there's little value in removing
#5
Rotary Freak
The thing threads into the block , take it out and you will see the hole in the stud ,spray that out with carb cleaner . Clean the electrical contact and reinstall . ( Then go get a new one . I am quessing, and am willing to bet you need a new one .If I am wrong I will pay for one of the shipping cost on one of Garfinkles torque braces, If you buy one .If I am correct what will you do for me that is fun ? )
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Originally posted by duboisr
The thing threads into the block , take it out and you will see the hole in the stud ,spray that out with carb cleaner . Clean the electrical contact and reinstall . ( Then go get a new one . I am quessing, and am willing to bet you need a new one .If I am wrong I will pay for one of the shipping cost on one of Garfinkles torque braces, If you buy one .If I am correct what will you do for me that is fun ? )
The thing threads into the block , take it out and you will see the hole in the stud ,spray that out with carb cleaner . Clean the electrical contact and reinstall . ( Then go get a new one . I am quessing, and am willing to bet you need a new one .If I am wrong I will pay for one of the shipping cost on one of Garfinkles torque braces, If you buy one .If I am correct what will you do for me that is fun ? )