For synthetic oil users only
12-10-01, 08:55 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: VA
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For synthetic oil users only
I have 58,000 miles and have always used castrol 10w 30 but after learning more about motor oil have decided to switch to synthetic. Will my engine possibly leak, loose compression, or have any other ill effects due to this switch.
12-10-01, 10:02 PM
#2
Man who sold his 7
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mechanicville, NY
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dude If I were you I would run some semi-synthetic. Conventional oil has some good stuff about it too.
If you dont have any leaks now then you shouldnt leak with the synthetic.
I run Torco T-4R semi synthetic. Works well.
If you dont have any leaks now then you shouldnt leak with the synthetic.
I run Torco T-4R semi synthetic. Works well.
12-10-01, 10:57 PM
#3
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Columbus,OHIO
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I personally wouldnt switch with that many miles on your car after using regular oil the whole time. I've heard that if you switch to syn. after using reg. with many mi (ie:58,000) that the syn. will actually clean everything out around your seals leaving them more prone to breakdown. Again this is just something i've heard.....no real proof.
12-11-01, 08:43 AM
#4
Passenger
Posts: n/a
that is BS, where do people get this stuff?????
synthetic will not hurt your engine, just run a high quality, low ash content brand (Redline, Mobil 1, or Amsoil)....steer clear of "cheap" synthetics
my car has 44 k and I just switched to synthetic (Mobil 1 15w-50) about 2k miles ago...car runs great and burns ALOT less oil at wide open throttle....warms up faster (less oil pressure when cold) and runs cooler
just do it, your car will thank you, but you still need to change the oil at frequent intervals, regardless of the oil you use, because particulate, gasoline, and blow-by contaminates synthetic just as fast as petroleum
synthetic will not hurt your engine, just run a high quality, low ash content brand (Redline, Mobil 1, or Amsoil)....steer clear of "cheap" synthetics
my car has 44 k and I just switched to synthetic (Mobil 1 15w-50) about 2k miles ago...car runs great and burns ALOT less oil at wide open throttle....warms up faster (less oil pressure when cold) and runs cooler
just do it, your car will thank you, but you still need to change the oil at frequent intervals, regardless of the oil you use, because particulate, gasoline, and blow-by contaminates synthetic just as fast as petroleum
12-11-01, 02:06 PM
#6
Passenger
Posts: n/a
12-11-01, 02:37 PM
#7
Re: For synthetic oil users only
Originally posted by rotarhead
I have 58,000 miles and have always used castrol 10w 30 but after learning more about motor oil have decided to switch to synthetic. Will my engine possibly leak, loose compression, or have any other ill effects due to this switch.
I have 58,000 miles and have always used castrol 10w 30 but after learning more about motor oil have decided to switch to synthetic. Will my engine possibly leak, loose compression, or have any other ill effects due to this switch.
At least everyone agrees to run synthetics in the tranny and diff.
Trending Topics
12-11-01, 05:04 PM
#8
no synthetics
This has been a huge debate for awhile. There was a news release a few years ago by Mazda saying not to run synthetics in rotories. The main reason is because a rotory motor injects oil into the combustion chamber to lubricate the apex seals. Synthetic oil dosn't burn as clean as mineral oil and it will leave depostits in your motor and it will clog you cats. I would just run a high quaility mineral oil 20w 50.
12-11-01, 05:14 PM
#10
Passenger
Posts: n/a
we already beat that horse to death in the link I posted above, you obviously didn't bother to read it
to all the synthetic/rotary naysayers, please refrain from posting baseless, speculative heresay, or Mazduh paranoid rhetoric (reportedly the result of ONE bad expereince with ONE synthetic brand out of at least five or six tested...note that no such rhetoric existed fro the 1st and 2nd gen 7s....hmmmm)
the long term testing by forum members and race organizations like Pettit has consistently shown that high quality synthetics like Redline, Mobil 1, and Amsoil DO burn cleanly, DO NOT leave deposits, and blow petroleum oils off the table in any test of performance
if anyone has something peer reviewed (ASME??) or based on good science (and logic), by all means post it, I'm all ears
to all the synthetic/rotary naysayers, please refrain from posting baseless, speculative heresay, or Mazduh paranoid rhetoric (reportedly the result of ONE bad expereince with ONE synthetic brand out of at least five or six tested...note that no such rhetoric existed fro the 1st and 2nd gen 7s....hmmmm)
the long term testing by forum members and race organizations like Pettit has consistently shown that high quality synthetics like Redline, Mobil 1, and Amsoil DO burn cleanly, DO NOT leave deposits, and blow petroleum oils off the table in any test of performance
if anyone has something peer reviewed (ASME??) or based on good science (and logic), by all means post it, I'm all ears
12-11-01, 06:36 PM
#11
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by Tommy
I personally wouldnt switch with that many miles on your car after using regular oil the whole time. I've heard that if you switch to syn. after using reg. with many mi (ie:58,000) that the syn. will actually clean everything out around your seals leaving them more prone to breakdown. Again this is just something i've heard.....no real proof.
I personally wouldnt switch with that many miles on your car after using regular oil the whole time. I've heard that if you switch to syn. after using reg. with many mi (ie:58,000) that the syn. will actually clean everything out around your seals leaving them more prone to breakdown. Again this is just something i've heard.....no real proof.
Makes sense doesn't it?
12-11-01, 07:52 PM
#12
The Man
Ah Hah, the age old "synthetic in a rotary" debate. Well, from lots of racing experience both personally and vicariously thru Pettit Racing, Rotary Performance and many others synthetics work just fine, even after 80K miles on my previous motor and a tear down after ping-Clean housings, rotors and bearings, virtually no evident wear at all. Only evidence of failure was two rear rotor apex seals fractured. Yes, properly maintained conventional oil will protect almost as well, the mineral (conventional) oils do not have the shear strength to withstand high temps, they just lose their viscosity too easily and can lead to less protection under these circumstances, especially when turbo(s) is/are involved. Just for added clarification also TWO manufacturers have the technology to make a 100% synthetic oil: Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Although other manufacturers claim synthetic on the container, they aren't true 100% synthetic, and if they are(Mobil 1 has been considering selling rights to some of its technology to other oil producers) they haven't mastered the art of the 100% synthetic race tested motor oil!
Just my 2 cents worth.
Just my 2 cents worth.
12-11-01, 08:23 PM
#13
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Coral Gables,Fla
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont think its worth changing over to synthetic, you still have to replace youre oil every 3 K or less.And at $4 or more a quart it adds up, vs $1.10 for GTX the only real plus with synthetic is that it can withstand higher temps that youre motor will never see unless you race.It will reduce oil temps but if you have a upgraded cooling system youre water and oil temps will be lower any ways.And its been proven that synthetic dosent reduce wear any better than mineral based if replaced at the same time.
12-11-01, 10:32 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why not just disengage the OMP and use premix instead, then you can run Synthetic if you want because it will no longer be injected into the combustion chamber?
12-11-01, 11:49 PM
#16
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: TX
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: dear god no
Originally posted by Tim Benton
I'm not posting about the oil question, but just wanted to say, I HOPE TO GOD THAT PICTURE IS A MISTAKE...AND SOMEONE DIDN'T PAINT THEIR CAR MARY KAY PINK!!!!!
Tim Benton
I'm not posting about the oil question, but just wanted to say, I HOPE TO GOD THAT PICTURE IS A MISTAKE...AND SOMEONE DIDN'T PAINT THEIR CAR MARY KAY PINK!!!!!
Tim Benton
thats gotta be the ugliest FD ive ever seen
12-12-01, 07:49 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hahaha....no, the car really isn't pink. I know that guy. His car sat at the shop for a long while and the sun faded it. Then someone was kind enough to photoshop that pic for him as an inside joke.
Love that picture, Tommy.
Love that picture, Tommy.
12-12-01, 09:27 AM
#18
Passenger
Posts: n/a
And its been PROVEN that synthetic dosent reduce wear any better than mineral based if replaced at the same time
bullshit....
under what conditions? for what oil change interval? let's see the proof! where's the beef??? like I said, speculation and heresay, this topic really brings it out of the woodwork, I'm waiting for someone to say Slick 50 outperforms synthetic
I'm convinced 98% of people are just too lazy to do any research about anything, they just listen to what someone else says/thinks
bullshit....
under what conditions? for what oil change interval? let's see the proof! where's the beef??? like I said, speculation and heresay, this topic really brings it out of the woodwork, I'm waiting for someone to say Slick 50 outperforms synthetic
I'm convinced 98% of people are just too lazy to do any research about anything, they just listen to what someone else says/thinks
12-12-01, 09:28 AM
#19
I don't know if someone botherd to say this or not, but when running my pp, i used 15-50 mobil 1. What i noticed was after a hard run, the oil tempatures would not go up as high, and would come back down faster. when i had it torn down, (because a nut and lock washer went through the rear rotor.) the bearings looked mint. This was with about 15k miles with 50-150shots of nos sometimes. CJ
12-12-01, 11:04 AM
#20
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Columbus,OHIO
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Pressurized
Hahaha....no, the car really isn't pink. I know that guy. His car sat at the shop for a long while and the sun faded it. Then someone was kind enough to photoshop that pic for him as an inside joke.
Love that picture, Tommy.
Hahaha....no, the car really isn't pink. I know that guy. His car sat at the shop for a long while and the sun faded it. Then someone was kind enough to photoshop that pic for him as an inside joke.
Love that picture, Tommy.
12-12-01, 10:07 PM
#21
The Man
"the only real plus with synthetic is that it can withstand higher temps that youre motor will never see unless you race."
posted by juliof:
Um, how many here have an FD and haven't raced it at some point? Drag strip? ever do a couple dyno pulls? Ever raced a Chevy Camaro.
That's the idea, and trust me from personal track experience, synthetic oils stay cooler than conventionals, their ability to dissipate heat is far greater than any conventional. Sustained boost on a full imsa GT road race will get oil temps into the 220-230 degree range, and you'd better hope that the oil is holding up. Wouldn't it be nice to know that your oil has the ability to withstand these conditions, just think of the protection you'll get under "normal" street conditions(be it racing that camaro or running on the dyno). Case closed
Art
posted by juliof:
Um, how many here have an FD and haven't raced it at some point? Drag strip? ever do a couple dyno pulls? Ever raced a Chevy Camaro.
That's the idea, and trust me from personal track experience, synthetic oils stay cooler than conventionals, their ability to dissipate heat is far greater than any conventional. Sustained boost on a full imsa GT road race will get oil temps into the 220-230 degree range, and you'd better hope that the oil is holding up. Wouldn't it be nice to know that your oil has the ability to withstand these conditions, just think of the protection you'll get under "normal" street conditions(be it racing that camaro or running on the dyno). Case closed
Art
12-13-01, 01:25 AM
#22
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Coral Gables,Fla
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
12-13-01, 05:04 AM
#23
I was running Royal Purple blend for a while and it seemed to work well in that it kept my oil pressure up higher at idle when the car was hot than the Havline that I was running before did. But it seemed to get "dirty" at about the same rate.
I recently switched to Royal Purple Racing oil (full synthetic) and it seems to stay cleaner much longer.
I am not speculating why this is true, just relaying my observational experience.
Also, my 88 T2 Owner's Manual also said not to use synthetic oil, so the recommendation existed before the third gen was produced. I ignored it then, too.
-Max
I recently switched to Royal Purple Racing oil (full synthetic) and it seems to stay cleaner much longer.
I am not speculating why this is true, just relaying my observational experience.
Also, my 88 T2 Owner's Manual also said not to use synthetic oil, so the recommendation existed before the third gen was produced. I ignored it then, too.
-Max
12-13-01, 10:13 AM
#25
Passenger
Posts: n/a
PROOF www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil.html
as good as that website is, there is nothing there proving anything about synthetic oil, just more speculation....we already presented information in the previous link I posted confirming that high quality syntheitcs such as Redline and Mobil1 have a LOWER ash content (essentially zero) then petroleum oils, so, again, the ash content/deposit argument is bullshit....pure speculation without credible evidence
next??
as good as that website is, there is nothing there proving anything about synthetic oil, just more speculation....we already presented information in the previous link I posted confirming that high quality syntheitcs such as Redline and Mobil1 have a LOWER ash content (essentially zero) then petroleum oils, so, again, the ash content/deposit argument is bullshit....pure speculation without credible evidence
next??