Synthetic Oil or non synthetic for oil changes?
#1
New West Capital
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southern Cali, Diamond Bar
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Synthetic Oil or non synthetic for oil changes?
Hey everyone,
I've been doing some research for this and I'm still confused. The manual for the FD states that synthetic oil is bad for rotories and shouldn't be used. But then I did a search and people on the forum are suggesting to ONLY use synthetic oils like Mobil 1...
who's right??
also, I'm going to be flushing my car out with new everything right now.. which brands are the best to use for diff, transmission, motor oil, and oil filter???
thanks
mike
I've been doing some research for this and I'm still confused. The manual for the FD states that synthetic oil is bad for rotories and shouldn't be used. But then I did a search and people on the forum are suggesting to ONLY use synthetic oils like Mobil 1...
who's right??
also, I'm going to be flushing my car out with new everything right now.. which brands are the best to use for diff, transmission, motor oil, and oil filter???
thanks
mike
#3
Yes it is for sale.
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: The Houston Club's Resident Lush.
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Answer 1:
This has been discussed a lot on this forum. One thing is for sure though, no one has had an engine failure becasue of a synthetic.
Answer 2:
Mobile 1
SEARCH AND READ NEXT TIME!!!!!!!!!
This has been discussed a lot on this forum. One thing is for sure though, no one has had an engine failure becasue of a synthetic.
Answer 2:
Mobile 1
SEARCH AND READ NEXT TIME!!!!!!!!!
#4
Rebreaking things
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: 1 foot in Boston 1 in NJ
Posts: 2,586
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also check the Rx8 forum. This is a hot topic over there and a couple people have corresponded with mazda's customer service department about it.
#5
BOOOYAHHHH!
i used mobil1 sythentic for my diff and tranny fluid.. works great. smooth out my shifts ALOT. if you can get redline MTL then i would reccomend that for your tranny fluid... if not.. mobile 1 or RP
#6
I use regular oil because it is made to burn a little. Sythentic is made not to burn, I still use Mobil products and I like them. I change the oil every 1500-2000 miles so that is another reason I dont use sythentic. as for pros and cons I really dont care. I just know that mine runs fine.
Trending Topics
#8
Power Trippin'
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by FormerPorscheGuy
One thing is for sure though, no one has had an engine failure becasue of a synthetic.
One thing is for sure though, no one has had an engine failure becasue of a synthetic.
If you drive normally, changing with regular oil every 3K miles/3 months is just fine. I've been using Castrol GTX in all my rotary cars for years without issue. As for tranny, diff. fluid, and oil filters, I use regular Valvoline gear oil and Mazda OEM filters. Regarding the former, some people with bad synchros or other transmission issues find that synthetics smooth out their shifts, others report no difference. IMO, synthetics are overrated. That's not to say that they aren't useful. I just feel in the long run, they don't offer any real benefit over the regular stuff and isn't worth the extra money.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Redline says they've used their synth. oil in rotarys from day one without probs. I think how often you change your oil and filter means more than the type (except for a Safeway brand or something, don't use that!)
#10
Lives on the Forum
I have yet to hear of any rotary motor, even a racing motor, that had wear or failure issues due to the fact it had dino oil or synthetic oil in it. Only oiling issues I have ever seen were due to loss of oil pressure.
Fact is when the motor or turbos go it will be from something other than the oil
FWIW I run Castrol 10W-30 motor oil and change it and the filter every 3000 miles or every two race events; whichever comes first. That's still a very conservative schedule for a modern oil. Mazda recommends changing the oil every 5000 miles for normal use or every 3000 for aggressive use. The only reason I change early if I have raced the car twice is to be certain the oil isn't dilluting due to fuel, but honestly I haven't had that problem with the new motor (now 25K on it). My car is still on the original stock turbos with 125,000 miles on them and the shaft play is still well within spec.
I run NEO synthetic in the trans and diff. I haven't tried anything else but have really liked the NEO. If it's good enough for a bunch of race teams it's good enough for me (but it's pricey!).
Fact is when the motor or turbos go it will be from something other than the oil
FWIW I run Castrol 10W-30 motor oil and change it and the filter every 3000 miles or every two race events; whichever comes first. That's still a very conservative schedule for a modern oil. Mazda recommends changing the oil every 5000 miles for normal use or every 3000 for aggressive use. The only reason I change early if I have raced the car twice is to be certain the oil isn't dilluting due to fuel, but honestly I haven't had that problem with the new motor (now 25K on it). My car is still on the original stock turbos with 125,000 miles on them and the shaft play is still well within spec.
I run NEO synthetic in the trans and diff. I haven't tried anything else but have really liked the NEO. If it's good enough for a bunch of race teams it's good enough for me (but it's pricey!).
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Indy
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have always heard that rotaries burn oil so if you use synthetic it doesnt burn completely and builds up eventually and snags the apex seals and causes a blown a motor whereas regular oil burn completely i use castrol gtx as well.... and a very important mod for oil is the thermal pellet you can get an aftermarket one from atkins for 8 dollars and they replace the stock one whcih fails frequently and causes loss of oil pressure very good idea for reliability
#13
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#14
Rotary Freak
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Custom
I use regular oil because it is made to burn a little. Sythentic is made not to burn, I still use Mobil products and I like them. I change the oil every 1500-2000 miles so that is another reason I dont use sythentic. as for pros and cons I really dont care. I just know that mine runs fine.
I use regular oil because it is made to burn a little. Sythentic is made not to burn, I still use Mobil products and I like them. I change the oil every 1500-2000 miles so that is another reason I dont use sythentic. as for pros and cons I really dont care. I just know that mine runs fine.
#15
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by PVerdieck
Ignore the above, some synthetics are made to burn.
Ignore the above, some synthetics are made to burn.
Does the engine need to actually burn the oil? Or does it just need to lube internal componenets?
If it is just a matter of lube, then burning is not an issue.
#16
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally posted by FD3S94Adam
I have always heard that rotaries burn oil so if you use synthetic it doesnt burn completely and builds up eventually and snags the apex seals and causes a blown a motor whereas regular oil burn completely i use castrol gtx as well.... and a very important mod for oil is the thermal pellet you can get an aftermarket one from atkins for 8 dollars and they replace the stock one whcih fails frequently and causes loss of oil pressure very good idea for reliability
I have always heard that rotaries burn oil so if you use synthetic it doesnt burn completely and builds up eventually and snags the apex seals and causes a blown a motor whereas regular oil burn completely i use castrol gtx as well.... and a very important mod for oil is the thermal pellet you can get an aftermarket one from atkins for 8 dollars and they replace the stock one whcih fails frequently and causes loss of oil pressure very good idea for reliability
#21
Rotary Freak
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by BLKTOPTRVL
Even if it didn't burn...
Does the engine need to actually burn the oil? Or does it just need to lube internal componenets?
If it is just a matter of lube, then burning is not an issue.
Even if it didn't burn...
Does the engine need to actually burn the oil? Or does it just need to lube internal componenets?
If it is just a matter of lube, then burning is not an issue.
#22
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by PVerdieck
Ouch. With 614 posts you should have read by now that rotaries burn engine oil with the gas. Or have you just been looking at bodykits for almost 3 years?
Ouch. With 614 posts you should have read by now that rotaries burn engine oil with the gas. Or have you just been looking at bodykits for almost 3 years?