Donovan

OK so I got my Supra TT fuel pump (Thanks Kris!!) and now I need to install it. I realise it is a drop in install, so is there anything I'm going to need in addition to the new pump or is it just unscrew the old parts and replace with the new pump?
Also I am running stock injectors and turbos currently and the pump is for safty and later mods. Is there going to be any tuning I'm going to need to do with this new pump or should the fuel delivery still be the same as I have yet to upgrade the injectors? thanks hombres.

suprfast

the only thing needed with this fuel pump is a GT35/40. okay, honestly no tuning is needed with this fuel pump. it really is just a drop in deal with nothing more to do. you shoudl wait(till i come over) so i can check out the install. give me a call. dont forget to vacuum around the fuel pump so you dont drop anything in the tank.
kris

Donovan

OK great. Anybody care to comment that actually has done one of these
The tuning question is pertaining to the increased level of fuel comming from the pump not the actual pump.

Street King

No it wouldn't matter the fuel pump if you are keeping stock injectors, you don't need to tune it. Drop it in and put it in your sig.

suprfast

the pump regulates the amount of fuel going to the injectors but the injectors will not put out any more fuel(inturn, no tuning needed). see what happens when you hook up a buddy, they say things like, "OK great. Anybody care to comment that actually has done one of these". i might stop by right now
kris

brads

Very, very easy job. Unplug the connectors ontop of the tank. Undo the fuel lines. Take the top off, and pull the pump apparatus out. Undo the stock pump....switch the filter over to the Supra pump...reinstall. Oh yea, you might want to release the fuel pressure by taking the gas cap off.

shawnk

It is very simple- took 30 min from start to finish. Biggest deal is to release pressure (I do that with a deep socket at the bolt on the front of the secondary rail with a towel wrapped around it to catch the gas - may not be accessible on stock though - cant remember...) from the system and then make sure rear is higher than front -my driveway is sloped and the tail was down and it seemed like tons of gas came back at me when I broke the hose loose at the tank. Otherwise just have a couple rags handy to catch the gas. Once you are past there you switch them out and tighten everything back. And finally pressurize the system by jumping the fp and g in the diagnostic box in the engine (1 and 3 or 4 on the inside row) and then turn the ignition to on a couple times (not start). Remove jumper and start your car.

Shawn

Donovan

I put a smilie face!

apneablue

If the injectors aren't putting out any more fuel, what's the sense of doing this mod without upgrading the injectors in the process?

this is a legitimate question BTW

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

The idea is that this pump can supply more fuel per/min, and therefor won't be at the ragged edge of its ability to supply what the injectors need (possibly causing a momentary fuel deficiency ands lean condition).

Its the same for the injectors. Plenty of folks will say "gee, i've been supporting 3xx rwhp, on the stock injects no problem"... but if you look at the duty cycles, they are at 95% +!!

The problem will occur when there is a hiccup... you cant ask any system to perform reliably at 95-100% capacity.

Radical Rotary Avantgard

Very important!!!!
Make sure you are not smoking when you change the pump.

apneablue

Ok, so what you are saying is that the stock injectors can outperforming the stock fuel pump?

So by upgrading the fuel pump you supply the injectors with more fuel...But the injectors themself will not start spraying more fuel just becasue the pump was upgraded....Do I have that right?

So there is a benefit to upgrading the stock pump if you still have the stock injectors? I am still a little confused but getting there...

suprfast

the fuel pump will help the injectors. you can run the injectors at the higher boost without the fuel pump starving them. the injectors will still get hot, but you wont have to worry about fuel getting to the injectors. you know i was playing donovan, i meant that i might stop by later, but forgot it was EASTER. family stuff today, car stuff tomorrow. let me know how it went if you finished.
kris

cavellm

If you're already near the top of your injectory duty cycle, a bigger fuel pump won't help ya. It just has the *capacity* to flow more fuel.

Unless for some reason the stock fuel pump is dying and it is the bottleneck. If that's the case, I'd think that the injectors would be at a high duty cycle, but aren't giving the correct fuel indicated say on the PFC. Hooking up a fuel pressure gauge would probly be a good idea if that's the case.

apneablue

What would be considered "the top of your injector duty cycle" for the stock injectors?...I usually see around 82-85% at WOT (PFC reading)...

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

85% is the top of the "safe" level. any higher and they are basically not pulsing anymore and just dumping in fuel like a spigot. I was seeing 94% with my 850's, and now its at 74% with the 1300's

cavellm

I agree. If you're seeing more than 85% on the PFC, it's not accurate. At 14 psi on a cold night I got up to 98%.

I was originally gonna go 850/1300cc, but a friend was saying how he blew 3 motors on rc engineering ported 1300's... I might just do the 850 all around and see how close I get to ~80% around 400rwhp. Rather not spend the $$$ to get the bigger rail to get up to 1600's

apneablue

If your friend blew 3 motors on 1300s why would you go with 850s all around...wouldn't you want to go with the 1600s? I guess it depends on your mods vs. his but why not just do 1600 and be done with it?

jpandes

I installed a Supra FP and my car ran really rich, to the point that I was getting 5-6k hesitation. I ended up buying and installing an HKS Twin Power ignitiokn amp that cleared up the problem.

maxcooper

The fuel pressure regulator regulates the pressure, which along with injector duty cycle determines how much fuel is delivered. If the pump can't supply enough fuel, the pressure drops. If your pump was supplying enough fuel that your pressure didn't drop before, increasing the flow of the fuel pump will not change the amount of fuel delivered, so you won't need to re-tune.

If you are losing fuel pressure at high boost and high RPM, you can't tune very effectively because the electrical load on the car (headlights, stereo, HVAC fans, etc.) will determine your fuel pressure. Upgrading the pump will put the FPR back in control of the fuel pressure, allowing precise control of the amount of fuel delivered. If you were losing fuel pressure before, you will probably run richer at high RPM and high boost.

-Max

cavellm

He was saying the root cause was the RC Engineering ported 1300's. Showed on the PFC that they were delivering enough fuel, but were in fact leaking and not all fuel indicated was getting into the motor.

7racer

well I installed the pump and it took me 1 and 1/2 hours. All I have is my measly kmart bluelight special tool box (35 pieces)

I have a touring with a Bose system

1) undo latch on Bose system (on right). Undo four nuts on left side of the snake (lift carpet). Lift the snake so it is loose. underneath the left side is the connector for the Bose unit (remove this..male/female connector type)

2) remove the four 9I think) screws for the covering plate...underneath covering plate there is a connector and a ground. The connector is again male/female, undo this first as it gives you more play to get at the ground; loosen the bolt for the ground.

3) Now you will see the top of the fuel tank and the top plate of the fuel pump apparatus. On the left and right there is a bolt and hose that meet at a connection. The bolt just seems to hold things into place.
Instead of trying to pull the tubes off, I undid the bolts then pushed the tubing out of the way(the right to the right, left, left). This leaves two right angle connections with tubing to them. I removed the leftmost one and then the right. Even after opening the gas cap I got back pressure and gas squirted all over me I ended up sticking a allen wrench in there to temporarily cap this tube. *NOTE* becareful because if you cap this and it is at all loose, it could fall into the fuel tank, then you are SOL

4) remove the many screws holding down the top plate for fuel pump system.

5) pull assembly out. Becareful as the fuel level apparatus is connected and it is at a right angle (the same angle as the filter)...I accidently bent it back and thought I broke it!!

6) undo screw on bottom of pump, this releases the pump, pull pump down to release from the apparatus and hard tube coming down, then unscrew the (-) and (+) wires. The filter is attached with a crush washer which I removed with a small screw driver.

7) Place new pump on and reverse order.

8) I turned the ignition to on and left it for about 1min...I thought I read that this turns the pump on?? then I started her up...vrrrrooooooom vrrrrooom....no stalling, let it idle for about 5 mins, then took it for a drive...everything ok, I was only at a 1/4 tank so went to gas station and fill'd her up....good gauge works! back to "F"....everything seems good. Good luck!

kung stew

Nice write-up! I'll be doing this as soon as I fix my idle problem...and track down that coolant leak...and finish breaking in the motor...and install elec. boost control...(the list is ENDLESS)

-Stew

cavellm

Guess this is something I can do while my car is sitting lifeless in the driveway...

shawnk

Add a step 0) Disconnect battery.


Also there is a better way to bleed the pressure and prime the system when you are done that I described above.

Shawn