stripped intake manafold -help?
#1
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stripped intake manafold -help?
Lower intake manifold , the rear stud by the firewall got stripped.
Here are the options that I know of
JBweld
drill and tap w/ a larger diameter (but I am concerned about going into the intake
“helicoil”
buy an used one (costly and waiting)
from EXPERIENCE what should I do with this?
Secondly should I replace the two gaskets if I pull it?
Anyone try/know about the PPP gaskets as sold on Ebay, by precision power parts?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-95...spagenameZWDVW
Thanks
D
Here are the options that I know of
JBweld
drill and tap w/ a larger diameter (but I am concerned about going into the intake
“helicoil”
buy an used one (costly and waiting)
from EXPERIENCE what should I do with this?
Secondly should I replace the two gaskets if I pull it?
Anyone try/know about the PPP gaskets as sold on Ebay, by precision power parts?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-95...spagenameZWDVW
Thanks
D
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If its one of the top 5 that bolt to the LIM you might have a few choices..
get a socket that may just barly fit (I mean just can go over the bolt) and get a extention and hammer it on and see if it can bite enough to turn it off. Also try geting a pair of vice grips. Last thing to try would be drill out the bolt from the top and gettting a stamp or somthing like that and hammer the hole you drilled through the bolt and it should colaps and take a pair of needle nose and pull the fragments out but only do that if NOTHING else works.
get a socket that may just barly fit (I mean just can go over the bolt) and get a extention and hammer it on and see if it can bite enough to turn it off. Also try geting a pair of vice grips. Last thing to try would be drill out the bolt from the top and gettting a stamp or somthing like that and hammer the hole you drilled through the bolt and it should colaps and take a pair of needle nose and pull the fragments out but only do that if NOTHING else works.
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I guess i was not clear last time i took the UIM off, i notice the stud was very loose and when i tried to tighten it, it looks like the threads in the LIM were stripped, i put a bolt in it with some washers that seems to have a better bite than the stud. Now i have a couple of weeks and thought it should be fixed right.
So it comes back to the start of the thread
should i
JB weld the stud into the LIM
hog it out and try to rethread the hole in LIM (risky)
put in some "helicoil" <sp> (never done before but hear it is a good solution but you still have drill it out and rethread.
Given this is aluminum i was wondering if the JB weld it the best first step, i guess if doesnt hold i can still do the other options.
Thanks
So it comes back to the start of the thread
should i
JB weld the stud into the LIM
hog it out and try to rethread the hole in LIM (risky)
put in some "helicoil" <sp> (never done before but hear it is a good solution but you still have drill it out and rethread.
Given this is aluminum i was wondering if the JB weld it the best first step, i guess if doesnt hold i can still do the other options.
Thanks
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#9
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Originally Posted by badddrx7
I would not jb weld anything. Look at the next size up, tap it out for that size and drill the hole out in the Upper manifold. Or remove the lower intake and weld up the hole and retap it original size. Or remove the lower intake and buy another one ( @ $50 used )
the next best solution would be a helicoil, i dont know the torque specs but they can't be that high...
if you are careful and make sure you are going the very next bolt size up you should be fine drilling it out and retapping it, but i'd really try the welding method or helicoil first...
buying a new manifold just seems a little extreme to me, i'd wait until the manifold isn't usable before replacing it, and try fixing the problem first...
#10
RX-7 Bad Ass
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Helicoil is the way to go. Do it right, and it'll be stronger than it was originally.
Dale
Dale
#11
Originally Posted by Razerx
Ok, where are the $50 used ones at?
#12
why go throught the hassle of inserting a helicoil? the stud is supposed to go in "relaxed" and it is not load bearing, it should be like 20nm or so, which is just hand tight.
it could prob be fixed as simply as changing the thread pitch to a larger coarse one. an insert would be overkill unless you are in love with keeping the stock hardware
it could prob be fixed as simply as changing the thread pitch to a larger coarse one. an insert would be overkill unless you are in love with keeping the stock hardware
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Originally Posted by mad_7tist
why go throught the hassle of inserting a helicoil? the stud is supposed to go in "relaxed" and it is not load bearing, it should be like 20nm or so, which is just hand tight.
it could prob be fixed as simply as changing the thread pitch to a larger coarse one. an insert would be overkill unless you are in love with keeping the stock hardware
it could prob be fixed as simply as changing the thread pitch to a larger coarse one. an insert would be overkill unless you are in love with keeping the stock hardware
#15
Originally Posted by JHew84
the hassle? it would take just as long to thread in a helicoil as it would to cross thread another stud into the hole, which would be a really stupid thing to do btw, he's trying to remedy the problem you are talking about making worse ... its not about "being in love with the stock hardware", its about doing the job the right way and not ghetto rigging your car....
If your on about doing the job right there is only one way....Thats new lower inlet manifold.
#16
All Spooled Up
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Like I said, drill up and retap next size. If the car were before me here, you'd be on your way inside 30 min time and with the original chromed accorn nut
Good luck and remember - keep shaving and trash out of the intake/engine or you'll be posting a " how to retrieve a tool from the engine" thread next
tom
Good luck and remember - keep shaving and trash out of the intake/engine or you'll be posting a " how to retrieve a tool from the engine" thread next
tom
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Originally Posted by BuckyFD3
If your on about doing the job right there is only one way....Thats new lower inlet manifold.
Last edited by JHew84; 06-12-06 at 08:45 PM.
#19
Slower Traffic Keep Right
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I suggest a helicoil. Cover your intake ports with tape so nothing falls in. Clean up any residue adhesive with some acetone before you button it back up.
I don't know about the gaskets. The LIM get's pretty hot being right next to the turbos. I think any claimed power gains are bogus because of that. They claim the gasket will withstand the heat, but it's a lot of work to replace if it fails.
I don't know about the gaskets. The LIM get's pretty hot being right next to the turbos. I think any claimed power gains are bogus because of that. They claim the gasket will withstand the heat, but it's a lot of work to replace if it fails.
#23
The Anti-Prius
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For all the guys that posted "get another lower intake manifold".
Are you all insane? A two day job compared to 30 minutes max???????
IM here to tell you next to completely rebuilding your engine that has to be hardest, most time consuming job known to man.
How do I know?
IM in the process of doing just that (for reasons other than a stripped thread)
What a ****.
You have to take everything off the engine to gain access to remove the POS........
Coils, rats nest, fuel injector rails, down pipe, turbos, air pump, alternator, airbox, intercooler & main cat. + drain both the coolant & engine oil
HELI-COIL. It takes a metric 8X1.25 kit. $20-$30 at any good auto parts store.
How do I know?
Been there & done that too. Only I stripped the hole out for the center long bolt.
Are you all insane? A two day job compared to 30 minutes max???????
IM here to tell you next to completely rebuilding your engine that has to be hardest, most time consuming job known to man.
How do I know?
IM in the process of doing just that (for reasons other than a stripped thread)
What a ****.
You have to take everything off the engine to gain access to remove the POS........
Coils, rats nest, fuel injector rails, down pipe, turbos, air pump, alternator, airbox, intercooler & main cat. + drain both the coolant & engine oil
HELI-COIL. It takes a metric 8X1.25 kit. $20-$30 at any good auto parts store.
How do I know?
Been there & done that too. Only I stripped the hole out for the center long bolt.