Is this store trying to rip me off?
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,243
Likes: 42
From: Kennewick, Washington
And if you have a triple puck twin disk clutch... I'd recommend selling it. Buy a more streetable clutch package. The ZX3-HDSS by ACT works perfect for your application and will also hold up once you go for more power. There are other brands of clutches that will work great for you also. But you definitely want to get something with a full faced disk.
As far as unplugging the solenoid goes, Goodfellas hit the nail on the head. It doesn't matter what you do to try to control the boost. boost controllers only do one thing: open the wastegate. If the wastegate can't flow enough when fully open, then the boost will just start climbing. How much good can a boost controller do once the wastegate is fully open?
So now that you know that boost controllers (and the solenoid you unplugged) only control when the wastegate opens, you should be well on your way to saving your engine with the proper mods. There is a member on here that makes restrictor plates if you are worried about the weight and heat from the main cat. That would allow you to keep all the exhaust pieces you have. You current goal is to limit how much exhaust flow with hit the turbines. Porting your wastegate is also a great idea.
And definitely get your compression checked (as has already been mentioned, I am just reiterating as it is important. It will tell you what is going on as far as engine wear)
As far as unplugging the solenoid goes, Goodfellas hit the nail on the head. It doesn't matter what you do to try to control the boost. boost controllers only do one thing: open the wastegate. If the wastegate can't flow enough when fully open, then the boost will just start climbing. How much good can a boost controller do once the wastegate is fully open?
So now that you know that boost controllers (and the solenoid you unplugged) only control when the wastegate opens, you should be well on your way to saving your engine with the proper mods. There is a member on here that makes restrictor plates if you are worried about the weight and heat from the main cat. That would allow you to keep all the exhaust pieces you have. You current goal is to limit how much exhaust flow with hit the turbines. Porting your wastegate is also a great idea.
And definitely get your compression checked (as has already been mentioned, I am just reiterating as it is important. It will tell you what is going on as far as engine wear)
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 1
From: Canada
uve answered my questions. i dont want to bicker back and forth.
ive done all this except coolant hoses. they appear to be fine.
i havent done any modding to the car except the power fc and all the maintenance, they didnt recommend it to me but probably to the guy before me. he didnt seem like he knew much obviously.
idk its weird because its never gone past 7. maybe the cat is in there. ive never looked under the car to see, i just wrote that cause thats what the guy who owned it previously told me. ill have to look.
it looks like i might have to install the cat again, and get a compression test. the shop that i go to has a bad rep but its the only rx7 specialist within my province (i live in canada). so its my only option.
Do Oil, tranny oil, diff oil, brake fluid, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, coolant hoses, maybe Thermostat.
a triple puck twin plate clutch is just about the worst choice for your application. This shop recommended it to you?
Based on the above you don't understand boost creep. It will run at 7 psi until the exhaust gases and lack of backpressure overpower the stock wastegate. At a certain rpm the boost will skyrocket past 7 psi up to 10, 15, 20 psi depending on your setup.
it looks like i might have to install the cat again, and get a compression test. the shop that i go to has a bad rep but its the only rx7 specialist within my province (i live in canada). so its my only option.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 1
From: Canada
Mistake #1 - You don't buy a standalone ECU to fix a problem such as idle issues. You buy a standalone to be able to support running higher boost.
i dont want to bicker back and forth, thats not why im on here.
Do Oil, tranny oil, diff oil, brake fluid, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, coolant hoses, maybe Thermostat.
also, 14 inches mercury at -900 rpm on a stock port motor is not good, it sounds tired. I'd recommend getting a compression check before doing any more performance mod'ing of your car.
a triple puck twin plate clutch is just about the worst choice for your application. This shop recommended it to you?
i think that im going to replace the cat, get a compression test, and if all is well, i will get bigger injectors/fuel pump, etc. thanks for the help
I was not trying to bash or offend you in any way. I am sorry if I did. My intention was to get you to stop doing anything to the car. You were asking questions on how to run more boost and especially for someone new to the rotary engine this usually ends very badly and then the engine gets a bad rap. I understand it is nice to have a cool new toy, but take care of the problems first, the car is a blast to drive on 10psi. THEN after a while and much education start playing with it some more in terms of modification.
Another way (if you have a staight exhaust) to help with boost creep is a restrictor plate if you wish to keep the car cat-less. It is on here in some thread, I am sure you can find it.
I know you did not do all these things to the car save the maintenance and pfc (which was a good call, but not for the boost issue). When buying a modifed car you should always look at all the parts (if possible) that are supposedly on the car. Take some time, get it up on jackstands, crawl under it, open the hood and do and much snooping as possible. You have determined that the gentleman before you was not very intentional (nice way of saying careless and ignorant) about modding the car. Now you have to fix a small mess. Really, this one does not sound too bad.
-14 is not too good of vac at 900rpm. Make sure you boost gauge sits at 0 when the car is off. I know mine is off a little so I have to account for that. If it is the original motor, then that does not really surprise me and I would do the compression test as you have said you will and then I would surely not boost the car over 10psi. It will only quicken the motor's demise. If the motor compression is low, and you have the money, go ahead and pull it and get it rebuilt. This is MUCH cheaper than it going and possibly trashing not only the housings, but also your turbos.
What was mentioned above was right in the fact that no one (except for a few of coarse) are on here to bash you or insult you. Though it is frustrating when some questions are asked that have been discussed at length. Ex.."How do I run more boost?" Sometimes things are really hard to find when searching on here but odds are that it has been discussed at some point or another. You can do almost anything to that FD by just reading on here. I have gained SO MUCH knowledge over the past couple years by reading information posted by reliable members on here it is just amazing.
Another way (if you have a staight exhaust) to help with boost creep is a restrictor plate if you wish to keep the car cat-less. It is on here in some thread, I am sure you can find it.
I know you did not do all these things to the car save the maintenance and pfc (which was a good call, but not for the boost issue). When buying a modifed car you should always look at all the parts (if possible) that are supposedly on the car. Take some time, get it up on jackstands, crawl under it, open the hood and do and much snooping as possible. You have determined that the gentleman before you was not very intentional (nice way of saying careless and ignorant) about modding the car. Now you have to fix a small mess. Really, this one does not sound too bad.
-14 is not too good of vac at 900rpm. Make sure you boost gauge sits at 0 when the car is off. I know mine is off a little so I have to account for that. If it is the original motor, then that does not really surprise me and I would do the compression test as you have said you will and then I would surely not boost the car over 10psi. It will only quicken the motor's demise. If the motor compression is low, and you have the money, go ahead and pull it and get it rebuilt. This is MUCH cheaper than it going and possibly trashing not only the housings, but also your turbos.
What was mentioned above was right in the fact that no one (except for a few of coarse) are on here to bash you or insult you. Though it is frustrating when some questions are asked that have been discussed at length. Ex.."How do I run more boost?" Sometimes things are really hard to find when searching on here but odds are that it has been discussed at some point or another. You can do almost anything to that FD by just reading on here. I have gained SO MUCH knowledge over the past couple years by reading information posted by reliable members on here it is just amazing.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 1
From: Canada
I was not trying to bash or offend you in any way. I am sorry if I did. My intention was to get you to stop doing anything to the car. You were asking questions on how to run more boost and especially for someone new to the rotary engine this usually ends very badly and then the engine gets a bad rap. I understand it is nice to have a cool new toy, but take care of the problems first, the car is a blast to drive on 10psi. THEN after a while and much education start playing with it some more in terms of modification.
Another way (if you have a staight exhaust) to help with boost creep is a restrictor plate if you wish to keep the car cat-less. It is on here in some thread, I am sure you can find it.
I know you did not do all these things to the car save the maintenance and pfc (which was a good call, but not for the boost issue). When buying a modifed car you should always look at all the parts (if possible) that are supposedly on the car. Take some time, get it up on jackstands, crawl under it, open the hood and do and much snooping as possible. You have determined that the gentleman before you was not very intentional (nice way of saying careless and ignorant) about modding the car. Now you have to fix a small mess. Really, this one does not sound too bad.
-14 is not too good of vac at 900rpm. Make sure you boost gauge sits at 0 when the car is off. I know mine is off a little so I have to account for that. If it is the original motor, then that does not really surprise me and I would do the compression test as you have said you will and then I would surely not boost the car over 10psi. It will only quicken the motor's demise. If the motor compression is low, and you have the money, go ahead and pull it and get it rebuilt. This is MUCH cheaper than it going and possibly trashing not only the housings, but also your turbos.
What was mentioned above was right in the fact that no one (except for a few of coarse) are on here to bash you or insult you. Though it is frustrating when some questions are asked that have been discussed at length. Ex.."How do I run more boost?" Sometimes things are really hard to find when searching on here but odds are that it has been discussed at some point or another. You can do almost anything to that FD by just reading on here. I have gained SO MUCH knowledge over the past couple years by reading information posted by reliable members on here it is just amazing.
Another way (if you have a staight exhaust) to help with boost creep is a restrictor plate if you wish to keep the car cat-less. It is on here in some thread, I am sure you can find it.
I know you did not do all these things to the car save the maintenance and pfc (which was a good call, but not for the boost issue). When buying a modifed car you should always look at all the parts (if possible) that are supposedly on the car. Take some time, get it up on jackstands, crawl under it, open the hood and do and much snooping as possible. You have determined that the gentleman before you was not very intentional (nice way of saying careless and ignorant) about modding the car. Now you have to fix a small mess. Really, this one does not sound too bad.
-14 is not too good of vac at 900rpm. Make sure you boost gauge sits at 0 when the car is off. I know mine is off a little so I have to account for that. If it is the original motor, then that does not really surprise me and I would do the compression test as you have said you will and then I would surely not boost the car over 10psi. It will only quicken the motor's demise. If the motor compression is low, and you have the money, go ahead and pull it and get it rebuilt. This is MUCH cheaper than it going and possibly trashing not only the housings, but also your turbos.
What was mentioned above was right in the fact that no one (except for a few of coarse) are on here to bash you or insult you. Though it is frustrating when some questions are asked that have been discussed at length. Ex.."How do I run more boost?" Sometimes things are really hard to find when searching on here but odds are that it has been discussed at some point or another. You can do almost anything to that FD by just reading on here. I have gained SO MUCH knowledge over the past couple years by reading information posted by reliable members on here it is just amazing.
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