I was just wondering how hard is it to remove the turbos I need to replace my boost control actuator so i need to take the turbos out. Like time wise for someone that has the proper tools and everything how long should it take and how hard is it to replace the actuator.

 

Taking them out is not hard just putting them back it is a pain. your going to need to soak all the bolt and I would recommend to have some new bolts and stud to replace the old ones.

 

By yourself? You should plan a whole saturday to take them out and a whole sunday to put them back in. You should start spraying all the nuts and studs with liquid wrench or something similar. It will take a few days to eat the rust away. If you don't have power tools then you will want a 1/2" socket wrench or breaker bar and the nuts should be torqued when reinstalled. You may only have a bolt missing or a broken C clip. Any metal gaskets that you can see the layers sperating, have dents, bends, etc should be replaced. You may end up having to buy new studs and/or nuts. You should have bought a few ahaead of time if this is your only car. Change the top water line (if not both) to the turbo (very cheap and they burst over time).

Putting the turbo back is a pain because it's heavy and you have to wiggle it and move it around to get all the studs in the holes at the same time. Mechanics glove would help or at least some rubber ones but they will break.

 

i've done it in my autoshop class just recently. honestly, it was harder getting them off than it was putting them back in. the only bolts that were hard getting off were the bolts on the down pipe and the turbos as a whole unit. 3/8" drive ratchet worked the best because there isn't much room in there (mine's stock with a complete engine bay)

anyway...here's a few tips that i have to give you from when i did it. and these tips were my stumps and "blocks"

• you will need a swivel head ratchet (3/8" drive). the top-most bolt on the down-pipe is a tricky bastard to get to. i couldn't do it from under the car, and it was a bitch to get from the top. my shop teacher said "get a swivel head"
• do use penetrating oil (liquid wrench, wd-40, ect).
• use a digicam frequently. it'll help putting things back together.
  Quote:

  Originally Posted by Force13B

  Diagrams can only help you so much
• label all the hoses and connecting points with MASKING TAPE AND A SHARPIE (marking the tubes themselves sucks cause your oily hands rub off the markings)
• mark your alternator and air pump bolts (if you still have one) with Liquid Paper (white-out). tensioning your serpentine belts too tight WILL cause a disaster down the road (and you'll be stuck on the road when it happens)
• use sandwich bags to put the nuts & bolts into as different units come off. it'll also keep you from losing bolts and having "left overs" when you think everything's back together
• have new fluids ready. since you're changing out the units, might as well give them fresh fluids. (oil change & new ethylene glycol [anti-freeze])

i can print up and scan the directions for you using the shop's computer program (OnDemand5 by Mitchell1) if you want. good luck!

 

First, there is no "boost control actuator". It is the wastegate control actuator. What have you identified as the problem with the wastegate control actuator? In addition, it may not be necessary to remove the twins to repair the wastegate actuator.

 

thanks for all the help guys!

 

A few things I learned. Get a 3/8" swivel extension in 10mm, and soak every bolt/nut in PB blaster overnight.