Im changing out the turbos due to one of the turbos pushing oil out of the charge air relief value on non sequential setup and wanting to make sure I have the right replacement parts to put it all back together since I dont think oil dripping out is normal. The parts I think im going to need/should replace are
1. Rubber water hoses
2. Oil return gaskets(change all 5 or just 2 going to block?)
3. New studs for manifold-turbo and turbo-downpipe
4. Turbo to intake and charge pipe gasket(How often do they go bad?)
5. Nuts for studs and bolts for oil drain lines

Any thing else needed I didnt think of/know I need since the motor was supposedly rebuilt back in Oct-Nov 2014 by Addicted Performance Unlimited and driven 3 months before flooding? After it flood was unflood by Rotary Sports Racing, flooded again with in a month and left to sit while previous owner deployed for 13-14 months. It stayed that way until I bought it and I have already got it back up and running. All parts will come from Mr. Crowe so trying to just place one order.
Thanks

 

I'd have new exhaust gaskets on hand just in case you need them while you're in there, can always return them. They're not cheap either. Pair of silver diamond shaped gaskets for the block, the two asymmetrical gaskets between the twins and brick manifold, and the downpipe gasket. You'll be out about $500 for all of those. Sometimes going single turbo doesn't seem like such a bad idea, right ?

 

I would love to go single just my car is damn near stock besides the non-sequential setup. Hell im so stock I dont have a boost or water temp gauge yet and if the car hadn't been 9k for a 95 with recent rebuild and 30 miles from home I might not have tripped back into a rotary.

 

If it is a spare set of twins, I would disassemble them on the hot side, port the primary waste gate, and ceramic coat all the exhaust parts. That's is what I did on my recent rebuild. If your metal gaskets are in good shape you can reuse them, and if your car has the emissions deleted you can buy the Cosmo block to manifold gaskets about half price from Atkins.

 

Are you tracking or auto crossing, or just simply taking a lot corners? If so, you may be getting oil sucked in through your PCV system. A catch can will help with that.

I highly recommend boost and water temp gauges. Ignorance is bliss until you blow your motor. Ask me how I know...

 

Some random P/Ns from when I swapped my stock twins:

block->manifold
m10x1.5x52mm stud / nut

manifold->turbo
8mm turbo to manifold stud 13-4560-N391
8mm turbo to manifold nut 13-461B-E5B6

turbo oil lines -> block
rear oil return pipe 14-2930-N3A1
front oil return pipe 14-2930-N3A2

turbo -> intake pipe
2xturbo outlet gaskets 13-7120-N3A1

You can get the nuts you need from here in bulk and they're still cheaper than OEM:
M10-1.5 Exhaust Lock Nut Copper Plated Steel 14mm Hex

 

I prefer the copper plated nuts over the Mazda oem hardware. The stock stuff is inconel which is super strong, but they get brittle from heat cycling and easily seize when removed. Never re-use the stock hardware. Its almost certain to break/seize next time.

 

I noticed the Oil dripping out on first and only start up since I had the car. I had to play with the gas pedal to keep it from dying with the rpms hitting 3.5k+(cable needs adjusting) a few times. Im figuring thats do to how flooded it was and no oil in chambers other the the ATF I put in getting it to start so low compression after sitting the last year. If I had oil on hot side I would say bad motor but this is oil on intake side which is why im changing turbos.

The gauge are on the to do list right after getting it running and drivable since they cant do any good if the car just sits.

 

Alright one more question, Since I need to undo hard line to port waste gate best place to buy the oil feed line crush washers other then mazda or will a normal copper crush washer work? Only asking because Mr. Crowe quoted $210 each. Might have been a typo but if not then thats $840 for just 4 crush washers and the single route is looking cheaper more and more.

 

I think he quoted you something else!

The crush washers are just plain standard metric crush washers. I just re-anneal crush washers - heat them with a propane torch until they glow red, then re-use. It expands the copper back out. Done it many times with zero problems.

Dale

 

That's what I was hoping to hear Dale since that was the original plan with the crush washers until I seen the price so I just wanted to make sure.

 

^ Beat me to it. And chase the holes with a tap. Even with the copper plate stuff I still use antiseize.
FWIW I also used DEI ceramic paint on all the heat shielding. Mine was getting scale and surface rust in places . Been holding up well over the years.

 

If you can show us a picture of the car in question maybe I could help you with some background info on the car. I am curious to see which car it could be!

 

When I was trying to find out some information about the car when I first looked at it I sent an Email using your website and never heard back which is why I posted supposedly rebuilt. The PO couldnt remeber the shop name at the time(told me name later) just near Knoxville, ran by guys are age(20-30's), and multiple RX-7's in parking lot. Yall sold him the car with the vin being 400074, P.E.P model, Montego Blue, 5 speed, black interior with tan leather seats(drivers side is bad). If you need more just ask.


How it was when I first seen it, pushed almost against the back wall with a jeep hardtop in front so you couldnt see it.

 

Man you rescued that thing!
FYI the twins I have replaced I must have been lucky or stupid but all my gaskets and washer were perfectly fine and reusable. Once you tear into that thing and start pulling stuff apart you can do it really quick the second time around. So...my personal thoughts, before laying down $500 for replacement gaskets, go ahead and try the old ones unless they look bad or are already failing parts. Of course if you are rich, by all means