Here have been a few threads on this and I know it's been done with some work, but I was wondering if anyone could elaborate on how they pulled it off.

I think I have room for the airbox, but the stock "snorkel" piece that carries air from the IC ducting to the airbox cannot fit. Looks like the IC is a bit too far forward, so there's no room for the little spout that comes down from the snorkel into the IC ducting.

I can start cutting things, but I wanted to hear what others did first.

 

If you think it will be too much work to add the "snorkel", you can modify your airbox to work without it. The greddy SMIC will fit with the stock intake. I have seen it, but not done it myself. Its a really tight fit.

PM me if you want a kit to modify your airbox to work with or without the snorkel.

 

I am not 100% sure what you're asking, but I'll tell you how I got mine to fit. I had to cut off one of the bolt tabs on my Air box to get the SMIC to sit right. Then I had to shave down the cooling plate because it was hitting the top of the intercooler and would not bolt down properly. (possibly what you're referring to...not sure. It's the two footish black plastic air guide panel that sits across the front of the engine bay).

Next, I modified the stock intercooler duct by trimming it. I also cut out the portion that goes around the A/C dryer and sealed it with a piece of plastic and RTV.

When you're done...check your clearances for the A/C Fan. Mine failed shortly after because it was hitting the SMIC. A quick adjustment will fix that though. Tight fit is an understatement lol.

It should also be noted that I have adam_c's intake mod.

Pic for enjoyment:

 

I did it myself with no issues, but it's been a few years and I don't remember what needed to be done
Stock intake, stock battery, Greddy SMIC + hard pipes

 

Tony, you've got it exactly. I've got interference between the cooling plate at the front and the top of the smic. How much of the cooling plate did you end up shaving off? Did it go all the way into the hollow tube?

Nice engine bay. I like the stock look of the airbox and cooling plate in place. Maybe I'm odd.

 

You're not odd at all. I prefer the "stock-ish" look. I believe I shaved off the entire portion that was hitting it. That is....I shaved it till it was flush with the panel. Just have to take your time fitting it on the car. A dremel is your friend here.

 

You are. What the hell kind of crazy talk is that? Who in the hell do you think you are? "I like the stock look"....should be banned for life. That whole 'it's your car' thing only goes so far.

 

I bought a Peter Farrel intake Duct for their IC, and altered it to fit the Greddy IC. So all the ducted air goes to the IC. I discarded the plasitc cross duct shown in the pic, and sealed the hole in the side of the stock air box. ( Note on the japan race tracks, Mazda found the engine intake stole all the intercooler air, and caused overheating. That is surprising as tests have shown th stock IC is useless on race courses. )

PF uses a special airbox that takes air from a gap on the passenger side of the radiator. You can use this location too, by adding holes to the bottom of the oem air box.

The oem ducting has a high resistance connection to the air box, causing a boost loss at high rpm.

The greddy SMIC has a big pressure drop at the cast intake elbow. It took a lot of porting to open up the restriction.

 

My PFS (medium) airbox scavenged air from the duct. I altered it to source air from underneath, at the gap at the side of the radiator just as you mentioned. That's also where adamc's "cheap-bastard' modification gets it.

 

You are right, PF had a cross tube, and no opening in the bottom. I was thinking about the Pettit intake:

Cold Air Intake TKT RX7

I think AdamC was a step up?

On my box, I opened up the passenger side of the box for intake air, and substituted a compact "race" overflow tank, and created a passage way from the right grill (single OC) to that opening.

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