Still Idleing at 2200
10-12-02, 08:24 PM
#1
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Still Idleing at 2200
Okay, after a week of working on my 7 I still have no idea what the hell is going on. It still idels at 2200 and won't idle down. I check all of the vaccuum lines and I can't see any split or off. I started the car and let it idle for a minute, then I unplugged the MAP sensor and the car idle out and quit running. I also checked all of the connections on the idle control and those seem to check out. What else can I look at, I'm running out of ideas. I also reset the ECU and that didn't work either. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
10-12-02, 09:41 PM
#6
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My car idled at 2000+ rpm and I could not adjust it at all. It turned out my lower intake gasket was blown. I'll describe one thing I tried, although I don't necessarily recommend this, but it will eliminate leaking gaskets.
I removed the hose that goes from the IC to the intake elbow. I then started the car. I placed my hand over the intake elbow opening, competely covering it up. You will feel the engine vacuum trying to suck your hand in, but it should be ok. When I did this with a blown lower intake gasket, my idle speed still did change. All of the air that goes into the engine *should* go through the elbow, so I was effectively cutting off all the air, and the engine should have stalled. The fact that nothing even happened to the idle clued me in that I had a MAJOR leak somewhere. If you don't have any vacuum leaks, your engine will stall if you cover up the intake opening.
Just a thought, if you have nothing else to try.
I removed the hose that goes from the IC to the intake elbow. I then started the car. I placed my hand over the intake elbow opening, competely covering it up. You will feel the engine vacuum trying to suck your hand in, but it should be ok. When I did this with a blown lower intake gasket, my idle speed still did change. All of the air that goes into the engine *should* go through the elbow, so I was effectively cutting off all the air, and the engine should have stalled. The fact that nothing even happened to the idle clued me in that I had a MAJOR leak somewhere. If you don't have any vacuum leaks, your engine will stall if you cover up the intake opening.
Just a thought, if you have nothing else to try.
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10-12-02, 10:01 PM
#8
Senior Member
What manifold vacuum do you get?
Here's two quick test b4 you go ripping off the UIM.
1) Throw the car in 3rd on the road and slow down til you get to 1000rpm. What vacuum do you see? If it's anything less (closer to zero gauge pressure) than 20" you have a vacuum leak. However a faulty idle air solenoid IS a vacuum leak in itself.
2) Pull of the electrical connector for the idle control solenoid. This closes it. Does the idle drop? If so there's your problem.
In my experience, the idle control screw doesnt just go out one day. More likely is something jamming the accel cable/ return springs and stopping it from properly closing.
HTH,
-pete
Here's two quick test b4 you go ripping off the UIM.
1) Throw the car in 3rd on the road and slow down til you get to 1000rpm. What vacuum do you see? If it's anything less (closer to zero gauge pressure) than 20" you have a vacuum leak. However a faulty idle air solenoid IS a vacuum leak in itself.
2) Pull of the electrical connector for the idle control solenoid. This closes it. Does the idle drop? If so there's your problem.
In my experience, the idle control screw doesnt just go out one day. More likely is something jamming the accel cable/ return springs and stopping it from properly closing.
HTH,
-pete
10-13-02, 02:34 PM
#9
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I checked the thorttle linkage today, and it seems to be returning to place at idle...so it isn't out of wack. I'll check the others that were suggested later today and report back tonight.
10-13-02, 06:17 PM
#10
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I had a 3k rpm idle a couple weeks ago. This happened after i had the upper intake plenum off to remove the double throttle butterflies. It turned out that the cruise control cable was binding and preventing the throttle from closing. I simply disconnected it. I plan to remove the cruise control soon anyway.
10-13-02, 07:11 PM
#11
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I don't have cruise as its an R2. I did the 1000 rpm in third gear and the vaccuum on the boost gauge read 12. I take it that's good. So I don't have a leak anywhere. Any other ideas?
10-14-02, 12:00 PM
#13
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Where could I have a damn leak at. There are a million lines under the intake. I already checked those ones under there....and I couldn't see anything out of the ordinary other than a couple of metal lines that don't have vaccuum lines on them at all. Any other ideas of what I should look at?
10-14-02, 12:28 PM
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have you checked to make sure that the cruise controll cable isnt holding the throttle open. Mine got stuck that way one and took forever to figure out that the cruise controll cable had james slightly open.
10-14-02, 12:31 PM
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I have never tried this myself, but others have suggested it. Spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner or some other flammable sovlent around your gasket areas (lower intake to block, UIM to LIM, throttle body, etc.) I guess if you spray on a vacuum leak, the engine will suck in the solvent and your idle will change. I always thought this was a dangerous approach, since you'd be spraying very flammable solvent on an engine, but others have used it sucessfully. Have you ever tried unplugging you idle air control motor (valve)? That might cause a problem too.
10-14-02, 12:54 PM
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question
WHAT IS IDLE ANYWAYS, 800? BECAUSE MINE IDLES AT 1,500 AFTER ABOUT 30 MINS OF DRIVING IT COMES TO 1,000... WHAT CAN THIS BE?
AND ITS NOT THE CRUISE CONTROL BECAUSE I JUST CHECKED IT AND ITS FINE...
AND ITS NOT THE CRUISE CONTROL BECAUSE I JUST CHECKED IT AND ITS FINE...
Last edited by Juancm5483; 10-14-02 at 12:56 PM.
10-14-02, 02:10 PM
#18
It sounds to me like you may have an intake leak like others are suggesting.. I would check on the hot wax rod/fast idle cam and make sure that thing is working. Did you reroute the coolant line or do you still have coolant flowing through the TB?
Matt
Matt
10-14-02, 02:15 PM
#19
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Originally posted by paw140
I have never tried this myself, but others have suggested it. Spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner or some other flammable sovlent around your gasket areas (lower intake to block, UIM to LIM, throttle body, etc.) I guess if you spray on a vacuum leak, the engine will suck in the solvent and your idle will change. I always thought this was a dangerous approach, since you'd be spraying very flammable solvent on an engine, but others have used it sucessfully. Have you ever tried unplugging you idle air control motor (valve)? That might cause a problem too.
I have never tried this myself, but others have suggested it. Spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner or some other flammable sovlent around your gasket areas (lower intake to block, UIM to LIM, throttle body, etc.) I guess if you spray on a vacuum leak, the engine will suck in the solvent and your idle will change. I always thought this was a dangerous approach, since you'd be spraying very flammable solvent on an engine, but others have used it sucessfully. Have you ever tried unplugging you idle air control motor (valve)? That might cause a problem too.
10-14-02, 03:03 PM
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Re: question
Originally posted by Juancm5483
WHAT IS IDLE ANYWAYS, 800? BECAUSE MINE IDLES AT 1,500 AFTER ABOUT 30 MINS OF DRIVING IT COMES TO 1,000... WHAT CAN THIS BE?
AND ITS NOT THE CRUISE CONTROL BECAUSE I JUST CHECKED IT AND ITS FINE...
WHAT IS IDLE ANYWAYS, 800? BECAUSE MINE IDLES AT 1,500 AFTER ABOUT 30 MINS OF DRIVING IT COMES TO 1,000... WHAT CAN THIS BE?
AND ITS NOT THE CRUISE CONTROL BECAUSE I JUST CHECKED IT AND ITS FINE...
10-14-02, 03:11 PM
#22
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Originally posted by mjw
It sounds to me like you may have an intake leak like others are suggesting.. I would check on the hot wax rod/fast idle cam and make sure that thing is working. Did you reroute the coolant line or do you still have coolant flowing through the TB?
Matt
It sounds to me like you may have an intake leak like others are suggesting.. I would check on the hot wax rod/fast idle cam and make sure that thing is working. Did you reroute the coolant line or do you still have coolant flowing through the TB?
Matt
10-14-02, 04:54 PM
#23
Senior Member
OK I just tested mine for you on the way to work today,
At 1000rpm in 3rd I'm pulling 18" and my motor is not ported. So if you're not ported, then you're way off. Pull the electrical connector off the idle solenoid. It's connected to the throttle body, with the connector facing the firewall. Tell me what that does. 2200rpm is a wide open IAC valve.
Also check the fast idle.
-pete
At 1000rpm in 3rd I'm pulling 18" and my motor is not ported. So if you're not ported, then you're way off. Pull the electrical connector off the idle solenoid. It's connected to the throttle body, with the connector facing the firewall. Tell me what that does. 2200rpm is a wide open IAC valve.
Also check the fast idle.
-pete
10-15-02, 12:05 PM
#25
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Originally posted by mjw
The fast idle cam is located on the firewall side of the throttle body, it is really hard to see or inspect with the TB on the car. If you remove the TB you will see it easily.
Matt
The fast idle cam is located on the firewall side of the throttle body, it is really hard to see or inspect with the TB on the car. If you remove the TB you will see it easily.
Matt