chrisbergusmc

I posted on here last week that i had a fuel leak and that i had already changed out
the fuel pulsation damper. i did the test of the fuel system where you jump f/p and
ground in the diagnostic box and got no fuel leak this time so i put the engine back
together. when i tried to start it, the leak came spilling out yet again.......Any ideas?

ALNY93R1

iTrader: (12)

Did you try changing your o rings?..

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

I do not know how you went about changing the pulsation damper, but, if the injectors in the primary rail were pulled in the process, you can cause fuel to actually dump into the combustion chambers of the motor itself. Pulling the injectors triggers a siphon effect pulling fuel through the system. Are you sure that the fuel that came spilling out on the start attempt was not just fuel accumulated in the combustion chambers? Did the motor actually start on your attempt?

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

This is also a good possibility. Were the o-rings seated properly?

chrisbergusmc

i never pulled any injectors when i changed out the pulsation damper. the whole fuel leak problem started when i dropped the car back down after changing out the fuel filter.

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

I did not see your earlier post so maybe you explained this before, but where are you actually seeing fuel? Are you seeing raw fuel on the ground under the car? And is your fuel filter in the stock position or has it been moved to the engine bay? I'm thinking you are having some problem with the fuel lines holding the pressure, which means you need to check your fuel line connections. Keep feeding us info. It will get figured out.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I agree with JD - please give some details on where the leak is. Are you seeing fuel, or just going by strong odor?

chrisbergusmc

i am actually seeing the fuel on the ground. the point it is actually dripping off of is
the bottom of the turbos, dripping right off of the lower wastegate actuator arm, where it connects to the turbos. at least that is where it was last week. the fuel filter is at the stock location above the rear differential.

thanks for all the help so far.

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

This is consistent with what I described earlier as fuel build-up in the combustion chamber. When there is a large amount of fuel in the chambers it will dump out the exhaust ports and pour down around the exhaust/turbo manifold. Did you get the engine started when you made the earlier attempt? If not, do not try to start it now. I would suggest that you again jumper the fuel pump, making sure that you turn the ignition switch to the "on" position (but do not start the engine), and then look for any leaks in the fuel system. If it is the lines, or any other pressurized point, you should at least smell where fuel is leaking. One area that may have been compromised in replacing the pulsation damper is the rubber fuel line that goes from the primary fuel rail up to the secondary fuel rail. If you still have the rubber fuel line there it can crack and of course leak. If there are no leaks or odors after several minutes, then I would try to start the engine but not add any more fuel through pumping the throttle.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

To add to JD's approach, leaking injectors is what causes fuel to pool in the combustion chamber.

At the point you can reach the injectors, I'd simply send them out for cleaning. You'll get new o-rings and they will positively test for leakage.

Dave

chrisbergusmc

the injectors were actually services 1300 miles ago, which by now that was about a year. but that was done by pettit. i assumed that they would be good though

chrisbergusmc

im going to try and work on it again tomorrow. hopefully i can get some more pointers to look for before then.

FormerPorscheGuy

When I replaced my primary injector 0-rings, the Mazda OEM replacement 0-rongs were smaller then the origial one's that came out of the car.

Everyone kept telling me that the primary fuel rail was out of spec, this was not the case.

The OEM replacement o-rings DID NOT FIT. Thicker o-rings were needed.

I confirmed this trough a local Mazda shop here in Houston (MAZMAX)

The Mazda OEM Replacement o-rings are not the o-rings that were originally insalled in the car at the factory. Mazda changed the o-ring and didn't tell anyone.

chrisbergusmc

but at the same time, you would think with as many 7's as pettit works on they know this already.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you have a leaky o-ring or injector nozzle, you can detect it by unbolting the fuel rails from the engine and holding the rail in the air. Pressurize the fuel system and look for dripping.

Dave

chrisbergusmc

sounds good. so as a recap, if i do pull the rail and there is no leak from them then i should be good to try and start it, because i have already pressurized the system with it in and there were no leaks. but if there is a leak then i need to look into replacing the o-rings, and if that doesnt fix it suck it up and buy new injectors.

If i have missed anything please tell me.

chrisbergusmc

I did end up being an o-ring on the secondary fuel rail. only it was the oring on the bottom
of the injector, thought that was kind of odd. is there anywhere that i can get these o-rings other than sending them to get cleaned? also roughly how much does it cost to get them cleaned?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

You can get the o-rings from Mazda, but the price is crazy ($10/ea). If you really don't want to get them cleaned, you can call Witchunter or RC Engineering and ask if they'll sell you some o-rings separately. If these have not been cleaned/tested I strongly recommend it.

Dave