4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

Is it possible to have a stiff enough powerplant as to not have wheelhop, have tight shift, and not destroy the 5th gear synchro?

Unobtanium diff bushings, and solid or urethane motor mounts. would this be enough?

does the stock PPF need to be reinforced?


the car will be street driven almost daily but I can handle some extra vibes.





P.S. I have checked the artchives and have foudn mixed reviews, and some of the threads are so old they offer no long term trials and don't include new items that have come out.

Godzilla-T78

Ok, ive used everything under the sun.. you do a dif brace, engine torque brace, and urethane motor mounts with a mazdaspeed ppf *my last setup* you will have all of your teeth broken from vibrations... seriously its rediculous... everything in your car will rattle... dont do it unless you are a track driver the majority of time..

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

the aftermarket ppf wouldn't make a difference would it? it is just a stronger piece.

RxSeven1

iTrader: (2)

so what is the most effective brace or combination of braces? if you do only the torque brace you still get wheel hop, if you do only the diff brace your motor mounts are going to continue suffering, if you do the tranny brace you get tighter shifts but still get wheel hop. i dont want to rattle my teeth out but i would like tight shifts and no crazy wheel hop.

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

my sentiments exactly

soru81

Probably the best compromise between tightness in streetability is:
-unobtanium diff bushings
-unobtanium trailing arm bushings
-stiffer (not solid) motor mounts

At least that's what I came up with theory, but someone that has this setup should confirm/discard this hipothesis I don't have this setup, at least not yet.

rxrotary2_7

first before any of this.... having everything in good condition is the first priority. good motor mounts and diff bushings FIRST. after that IMHO a trany brace is not "needed". it will also be the loudest and most annoying of them. hence all the for sale adds i have seen recently for them, and never making/selling them. also take a look at the recent thread about "mods you regret" and you will see a few trany brace quotes. people say the diff brace is a little loud, but bearable.

i have a full-proof way to NEVER miss 3rd gear coming out soon. i dont want to say what it is just yet, but there are a few people that know already. just have to perfect the electronics of it for a street car. the full race one is much more simple, but not everyone has JUST a race car and their cars see the street often.... thats about all i will say at this time.

DamonB

I completely agree. Do all these things and you will have few driveline problems. People are too soon to bolt on a "new and improved" aftermarket part rather than fix what's really wrong: worn out parts. The trailing arm bushings alone make a big difference.

jimlab

If you get the right bushings, anyway.

BTW, the machinist tried to blame that one on me. He said "I don't know from trailing arm bushings or shock mount bushings, I just know part numbers." and then got all huffy that I'd even imply that the screw-up was on his end. RB-300 was the trailing arm bushing in my information, but when we compared dimensions, RB-200 corresponds to the trailing arm bushings on his schematics, so he said that I ordered the wrong part number. Well, I went back and double-checked my price quotes from him, and they're labeled "RB-300 - TRAILING ARM BUSHING" and RB-200 is the shock mount bushing. Gee, I wonder where I got the idea that RB-300 was the trailing arm bushing... Bastard.

spoolin93r1

i've got solid aluminum motor mounts, solid diff bushing and a diff brace. i seriously don't see how people can say it's too harsh. it's not really that bad. the only thing i don't like is my diff brace rubs my exhaust and it's kind of annoying

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Which Diff Brace...?

RxSeven1

iTrader: (2)

where can one obtain
-unobtanium diff bushings
-unobtanium trailing arm bushings
-stiffer (not solid) motor mounts

pugg57

ok... i feel like a twit, but i have to say it... for a while... i thought that "unobtanium" was a joke, you know like adamantium thought it was some ficticious unbreakable metal boy am i a doorknob... anyways, yes, where can we get those from?

come on, as a newbie... unobtanium? unobtainable?
and yes, i'm prepared to be flamed

jimlab

Me. Or more accurately, through me during the next group buy.

spoolin93r1

i can't remember the guy's name, but he's on the forum. he makes them and gotham sells some of them. i got mine thru gotham, but it's the same one

jimlab

rxrotary2_7

maxcooper

I'm not a drag racer, but I never get wheel hop anymore. All I have are new pillow *****, aftermarket toe links, GAB super-R shocks with 350 lbs/in springs in back, and an Unobtanium bushing set (suspension only -- I have stock diff bushings). I've got 265/40-17 S-03 tires in back, too. Lots of things can contribute to wheel hop, but I think that covers all the non-stock stuff on the back of my car. I don't have any braces or other stiffeners (no wait -- I do have a 4pt roll bar in back that stiffens the rear of the car). I imagine braces and other stuff might be needed for serious drag duty, but my setup works for me.

I don't do drag-style launches, but my car loses traction quite regularly and I never get wheel hop now. It used to wheel hop all the time with the stock bushings.

-Max

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

what about this setup:

unobtainium diff bushings
solid or poly MM's
RE toe links
RE trailing arms

Would this stiffen everything up and require NO braces?

maxcooper

4CN Air, those items will almost surely help, but I don't think anyone can predict for certain what it will take on a particular car -- you just have to try it.

If you have the time to try some things out, it probably makes sense to start with the least-vibration items first, like the toe links and traling links (or Unobtanium bushings in stock trailing links). If that doesn't cure your troubles, add some more stuff.

-Max

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

well the thing is, i want to prevent these problems before they start. I want to do it as one package because I know how it is when you make soemthign solid and leave the stock rubber at the other points. You might as well replace everything that will be affected and keep the stock stuff in good shape in case it's overkill.