Starter Click Click Problem Solved~~~
04-28-07, 06:56 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by akiratdk
2. on the direct opposite side where you insert the key you will find a white plastic cylinder like part where its connected to the wires.... now... all you need to do is unscrew one philips bolt and disconnect the wire connections and WALLA~~~ its out.
you failed to mention that that is one if the hardest screws to get out without taking off the dash board.
04-29-07, 01:51 PM
#27
The Laser Man
Thread Starter
Oh yea~~~ its pretty darn hard unless you have the right tool.... use one of those 90 degree screwdrivers.... hehehhe... and yes its a total bitch when you use a regular philips screwdriver.... 
mega biatch!!~~~
mega biatch!!~~~
06-19-07, 05:09 PM
#28
man, i dont understand how and the world to remove the ignition switch...am i removing the entire thing that they key inserts into...i have the steering column surround off and i see tons of screw all around...i have a '94 maybe its different? what do i do
06-20-07, 01:50 AM
#31
The Laser Man
Thread Starter
You guys can actually use the S2000 ignition button and it will remedy the problem as well~~~ Its the damn copper plates that are being corroded by the electricity.
06-20-07, 01:52 AM
#32
The Laser Man
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07-19-07, 02:15 PM
#33
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Another thing to check is how many amps your battery is using during start up.
It's easier if you have a PowerFC but basically if you don't have 12AMPS to start your car, it won't work. You'll get a slow starter sound with "clicks."
Nice find with the ignition switch being rusted. I'll definitely remember that the next time my car begins to show signs of the "click of death."
It's easier if you have a PowerFC but basically if you don't have 12AMPS to start your car, it won't work. You'll get a slow starter sound with "clicks."
Nice find with the ignition switch being rusted. I'll definitely remember that the next time my car begins to show signs of the "click of death."
07-19-07, 07:30 PM
#35
Btw, I've had my S2000 switch in since 2002-2003, and my FD STILL did the same thing. Big mystery to me... but i do suspect I didn't crimp the wire too well on the back of the switch. I'll check it out when I get her running next month, maybe throw in tons of new grounds around too and a new positive to the starter.
07-19-07, 08:19 PM
#36
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Another thing to check is how many amps your battery is using during start up.
It's easier if you have a PowerFC but basically if you don't have 12AMPS to start your car, it won't work. You'll get a slow starter sound with "clicks."
Nice find with the ignition switch being rusted. I'll definitely remember that the next time my car begins to show signs of the "click of death."
It's easier if you have a PowerFC but basically if you don't have 12AMPS to start your car, it won't work. You'll get a slow starter sound with "clicks."
Nice find with the ignition switch being rusted. I'll definitely remember that the next time my car begins to show signs of the "click of death."
07-20-07, 08:43 AM
#37
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Good to hear, I had a similar issue when I first got my FD, I heard the click click and at that moment had to push start.........
It was a loose battery terminal connector(pulled off in my hand with little effort) but it was tightened all the way on a Mazda replacement battery. Slightly smaller battery post.
so I pulled the nut off and put a larger washer on the terminal connector to help with the clamping force.
Easy temp fix. But the battery was almost dead.
Just a FYI to check the
Terminals, clean as needed and make sure they are tight
Battery have it checked it may be toast from heat and a bad connection.
And the starter switch is the next thing to address.....
It was a loose battery terminal connector(pulled off in my hand with little effort) but it was tightened all the way on a Mazda replacement battery. Slightly smaller battery post.
so I pulled the nut off and put a larger washer on the terminal connector to help with the clamping force.
Easy temp fix. But the battery was almost dead.
Just a FYI to check the
Terminals, clean as needed and make sure they are tight
Battery have it checked it may be toast from heat and a bad connection.
And the starter switch is the next thing to address.....
07-20-07, 08:57 PM
#39
did the ignition switch cleaning...easy as ****...just have to figure out how to get the screw out...i used phillips head bit adapter for a drill (about 1.5cm long) and slipped an open end wrech on the other end of it to slowly weasel the screw out....cleaned it out with radioshack electrical cleaner...works pretty good still the voltage is not as high because when the car's been on ACC for even 5 mins or so it takes a few clicks on the switch
07-24-07, 04:12 PM
#40
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You must be referring to "VOLTS" as the started draws way more than 12 amps. The car will start with less than 12 volts (for you guys with volt meters that watch when cranking) have probably noticed a drop to less than 9 on initial start but rising to above 9 by the time it starts, if it stays below 9 while cranking it most likely won't start (weak battery)
08-13-07, 06:32 PM
#44
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One thing to check is the ground next to the UIM that touches the firewall. I forgot that and after I did that it started up fine.
08-13-07, 06:42 PM
#45
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I do not have the exact same problem, but similar. About 2 months ago I took the car out of storage (I drive it every month) and then had to go in on call. Parked went in, fixed the problem and went to car to go home and no start. I did not even hear a click. About 10 minutes later car started ok. Drove maybe 400 feet to office and stayed maybe 10 minutes and car would not start. Nothing, and no it was still at temp. After about 30 minutes it started. No problems since then til now.
This past Saturday I drove to bank and was in there maybe 5 min. Car would not start. Waited two or three minutes and it started. The rest of the day and Sunday had no problem, started right up.
Anyone have an idea on this?
TIA
Charles
This past Saturday I drove to bank and was in there maybe 5 min. Car would not start. Waited two or three minutes and it started. The rest of the day and Sunday had no problem, started right up.
Anyone have an idea on this?
TIA
Charles
08-13-07, 09:33 PM
#46
08-26-07, 04:35 PM
#47
Just thought I'd post my experience with the no start problem. I changed the ignition switch and it helped for all of 2 days, then regressed back to the point where I would have to turn the key 3 or 4 times before the starter would turn over. I next tried wiring a relay to get a direct feed from the battery (as was recommended earlier in this thread by jeff p) and it worked perfectly, starts all the time now. BTW the ignition switch was $150 from Mazda. The relay, along with various crimps, connectors etc. was about $20. Try the relay first - it's much cheaper!!!
08-27-07, 02:58 PM
#50
Just thought I'd post my experience with the no start problem. I changed the ignition switch and it helped for all of 2 days, then regressed back to the point where I would have to turn the key 3 or 4 times before the starter would turn over. I next tried wiring a relay to get a direct feed from the battery (as was recommended earlier in this thread by jeff p) and it worked perfectly, starts all the time now. BTW the ignition switch was $150 from Mazda. The relay, along with various crimps, connectors etc. was about $20. Try the relay first - it's much cheaper!!!
Thanks.
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