Bake

Hi all,

Got an oil leak at my motor mt bolts. Is it possible to fix without an entire oil pan reseal?

The current oil pan reseal has less than 3 thousand on it and was done when the new mounts were installed.
I will probably do the next reseal my self. Should I go with a gasket or just use form a gasket?

Any ideas would be helpfull.
Thanks
Bake
93 r-1

13brv3

I just bought an R1, and had a pretty bad leak on the right side mount. I did some searching, and found that you can reseal the mount, without taking all that much apart. Do a search for motor mount replace, or something like that, and you'll find a few great posts with the details. The short answer is that you take off the two mount nuts that attach the mounts to the subframe, then you jack or hoist the engine up as high as you can. Supposedly, you can remove and reseal the mount from there. FWIW, Mazda said they'd charge about $280 to reseal it.

One other thing to consider. My leak was pretty bad, and I was starting to call my car "Puddles". As it turns out, the previous owner overfilled the oil, which must have kept the level above the leaky bolt hole all the time. Once I drained some out, it stopped leaking in the garage, though I do smell some oil burning after thrashing the car some. I don't think my mount is the only leak though, and I can live with this for now.

Good luck,
Rusty

poss

iTrader: (5)

welcome to my world.
puddles, that's a good one

in my case, i think that my oil pan isn't "straight." like if you would set it face down on a level surface, it would wobble like it is high centered. i'm either going to make a new pan ( or rather my brother will make one for me), or buy a new one.

Bake

Thanks guys,

I'll do the search for the repair. It seems easy enough.

Hopefully I can save the dough.

Thanks
Bake

duboisr

Donot use cheap sealer , the mazda sealer is to much $40 per tube, use Honda bond or yama bond or toyota bond . . Read the directions, it needs 3 days to cure. Let it cure or do it again ,your time your money

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

It is a pretty easy job to do.

I've loosened the motor mounts at the single nut holding them to the subframe, jacked the engine/trans from the bottom of the tranny. R+R motor mounts, clean everything so that it is dry to the touch, I use engine cleaner (Castrol Super Clean), wipe with rags then use brake cleaner to make it perfectly clean.

Clean the motor mount and all of the bolts, get all the old sealant off. Buy some black sealant for oil pans at the parts store. Goop up the bolts and the motor mount where it meets the pan. Becareful to make sure that you don't get any sealant on TOP of the bolts, this can end up cracking the rear housing when you tighten up the mounts.

Tighten mounts to engine, lower engine/trans, install nut that holds mount to the subframe. Let the car sit for 24hrs if you can.

I prefer using an engine hoist to lift the motor while mounts are off now but you can do the job without one.

Jeff

paw140

Can you also use this procedure to reseal the oil pan? Or do you still have to remove the whole subframe?

Bake

Thanks Guys,

I'll give it a try. The key must be good silicone.

Bake

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

You can't get the motor up high enough to get the pan out. The pan has the oil pickup tube dipping down into it.

Jeff