Preface
Previously I had posted that my new-to-me FD always thinks the key is in the ignition, even when it's not.

Previous thread here:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/key-ignition-switch-broken-how-fix-489458/

This problem causes the door buzzer to always buzz constantly and the steering column light to stay on indefinitely. Over the week I was away for vacation, this behavior killed my battery. I finally decided to figure out once and for all what the problem was.

Note: I was unable to find any information on this problem in the shop manual but maybe I was looking in the wrong place?

Solution

1) Remove the plastic molding that surrounds the steering column and ignition mechanisms. There are 3 screws underneeth the steering column that must be removed. Also, there is a ring around the ignition switch that must come out. Then the bottom and top plastic molding pieces can be separated from each other and removed:



2) Look at the rear of the ignition switch right behind where you insert the key. You should see a white plastic switchbox with two black/blue wires coming out (circled in red):



3) Lying down backwards, get your head behind the steering wheel and you will be able to remove the little plastic cover from the white switchbox:



Notice that the end closest to the driver side door has a round impression on the inside of the cover.

4) Inside the white switchbox, you will see two terminals for the wires (circled in blue) and opposite those, a plastic slider (circled in red):



It may not be immediately obvious, but this is what I found to be the problem. When you insert the key, the plastic slider is pushed outwards. It's supposed to be spring loaded (there's a little nub on the slider) so when the key is removed, the slider returns to the down position. Mine had no spring and the cover to the switchbox appears to have been damaged previously by someone. If you remove the key, you should be able to take a screwdriver and push in on this slider and the door buzzer should immediately cease. FYI, when the key is inserted, there should be +12v across both terminals. When the key is removed and the slider is in the down position, there should be +12v across one terminal and 0 across the other.

5) I took apart a few ballpoint pens to find a spring that fit both the nub and the circular impression on the cover, then cut down the spring to fit (it has to remain in place and compress enough when the key is fully inserted not to break the switchbox cover. Try holding the cover in place with spring installed and fully insert the key, you'll see what I mean. After cutting down a spring of appropriate diameter I krazy glued it into the switchbox cover inside the round impression mentioned earlier.



6) Reinstall the cover and secure it however you see fit (tape, zipties, etc.).

7) Goodbye annoying buzzer and battery-killing light!

 

I don't have this proplem yet, but great write up. this is the kind of (DIY) stuff I like to see. Great Work!.. Glad you solved the problem and maybe helped someone else.
Jeff

 

Thanks for the support! I'm a complete novice with these cars but if I can help out someone else while learning how to work on my own stuff, even better

 

Good stuff!

I've actually replaced the ignition switch and it's some work to actually remove it. I'm surprised that luckily you were able to service that piece with it on the car!

 

Great job...you've inspired me to take a look at my ignition system for some suspect connections when I get the time.

For the next project you must adjust the focus on your camera.

j/k

 

Heh to be honest I actually tried removing the whole cylinder first because it was impossible to see what was going on with it still on the car. After removing all the obvious screws it wouldn't come out (looks rivetted to the steering column or something?) I gave up and kept trying to find a way to see what was wrong without removing it :P

 

Those screws are designed not to come out as a security feature. They start out with heads on them but when installed they are tightened until the head snaps off. To remove them you have to grind a slot in them and use a screw driver or you have to drill the heads off. This is common in most cars.

I used plain phillips screws to re-install mine when I replaced it.

 

That explains a lot, thanks! Not much room in there to get a grinding tool

 

This thread came in very useful to me over the weekend. I appreciate the description and I figured I'd add some pictures that don't look like they were taken with a potato.

This is the key chime switchbox opened up, there is a clip facing the front of the car that you can undo and if you don't break it things will go back together cleanly. Unfortunately I broke mine trying to get it open.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1507570450

This is the top with new spring from a donor ballpoint pen.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1507570450

And here it is reassembled, I used a ziptie to keep the top on.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1507570450

 

I solved that issue by spraying some WD40 into the key slot... Much simpler. Apparently something was just hanging up in the ignition switch mechanism, and lubrication fixed it.

 

Yeah I tried lubrication first, when it didn't help I decided to try the suggestion from this thread. When the factory spring fails no amount of WD40 is going to fix it.

 

Yeah - guess I was lucky...