Just got off the phone with Jim from JPR Performance. Seems like I have a blown motor. REEEEEEEEEEEBUILD TIME!!!!!

If anyone didn't see my other thread. I'll break down the cause and symptoms for ya.

Was at the drag strip, Sounded like the ignition started breaking up at the end of 3rd gear.....CAR SHUTS OFF.

Car will not start. Has fuel, Has spark. So I tow it to Jim

After 2 days of trying Jim finally gets it started today. He had to pull it behind a truck and pop start it.

New symptoms...Won't hold idle, Low Vacum.

Jim said it doesn't sound to bad, He thinks I might of cracked an Apex seal and might not of damaged the rotor/housings. Either way it sucks, but I'm gonna start from scratch and build a monster this time.

 

good luck with that

 

I forgot to add, The motor still has good compression on both rotors...WTF????

 

I know I'm new here and have only owned one of these cars for 2 days but I have owned 2 full blown Mustangs and I have to say that "Was at the drag strip," is your cause of your blown motor. Call me stupid if you want but I don't believe that I'll be abusing this car the way I did those stangs. Don't take my comments as being a smartass but I've blown up too many cars that way. Of course, if your FD is a drag car then by all means...drag away.

 

Well, I didn't buy it to sitt around and look at it. I bought it for its performance. Performance that I'd like to use. This was the first time I ever had it at the strip. I was just curious what it would run. I'm not even a drag race kinda guy, I'm more in it for the turns.

 

Just remember, know and watch your boost level and use only the Best gas. Mine gets only Sunoco 94, not that it's necessary, but I'm more comfortable the Sunoco 94 didn't have a bunch of 87 'accidentally' dumped in the tank.

Dave

 

u talkin about jim with the WRX? if so, since when does he work on rotary?....

 

The ONLY gas I EVER put in it was sunoco 94

The Jim I was refering to is Jim from JPR Performance in Jersey.

 

gl with the rebuild

 

??

Are you sure you know what you're doing? Compression, spark, fuel, air. What else do you need to start an engine?

I don't get why it wouldn't start if it has good compression.

 

Me neither, and I'm not doing the work on it. I don't have the time. Acording to the machanic, he had to pop start it to get it to start. I wont hold an idle, no vacum at idle, But, the rotors still have compression.

 

no vacuum at idle but good compression? That makes no sense at all....at least not to me.

 

goodluck...

 

 

Same here...

Good luck looks you are going to need it.

 

It sounds like your mechanic is using a tester without removing the valve, or holding it open... He might be seeing the build up of the rotors but not watching for even pulses? It could be you have 0, 100,80 but if you don't take the valve out and watch it as its cranked over it will build up like a regular piston engine...

 

Do you have numbers for the compression test? You ought to have a total of six--three on each rotor. With thsoe in hand, YOU can judge if the motor has good compression or not. Check the FSM for details, but you ought to have 100 psi or so on each rotor face with a difference of no more than 20 or so psi between faces. Don't let this guy pull your motor unless you really need to. Could be something a lot simpler like a loose sensor or connector.

 

I'm gonna call the shop today. What really freaking me out is how the car just shut off. I'v never heard of a rotory just shutting off. What sorda questions should I be asking????? This motor has 3000 miles on it. This is bullshit.

 

if it has good compression, then you don't need a rebuild...

sounds like miscommunication

what are the numbers?

 

I understand that if it has good compression I don't need a rebuild. The machanic just said that it has compression. He didn't say that it had good compression, just compression in general. I will get the numbers from him tommorow