Post that belongs in the for sale section...

I just want to remind everyone what the most import tool is for the swap. The big ass service manual. It is now my bible. :) If you don't have one get one before you try and tackle the swap.

Here is a tip for those that don't have the Service manual. You have to remove the four bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flexplate. That way you can drop the tranny with the covertor inside. There is not enough room to drop the tranny with the torque convertor still bolted to the flexplate. You get access to the four bolts through a service hole in the bottom from of the tranny. You remove a little cover and work through the hole. Take our a bolt and use a big flathead screw drive to turn the flexplate so you can get to the next one.

If the torque covertor is still stuck inside of the flexplate jack the tranny up a little higher, this will help brake in loose. The torque convertor sits about 1/4 inch inside of the flexplate and can get froze inside. Or you can try a pry bar, but this didn't work well for me.
I hope this helps someone.

Brady Mahoney

Has anyone had any Tuning issues after the swap? My car dies @ stop signs sometimes. I can't seem to tune it out. It is about to drive me nuts. And no I don't have a vacuum leak. And the damn thing smokes sometimes now. I am starting to wish I had left well enough alone.

I haven't started on my conversion yet, so im just giving a suggestion from what I've heard in this fourm and from past experience with other cars. i've read that there are some ground that have to be made and wires needing to be connected and moved. A loose or bad connection might cause whats happening. I don't know if this problem started immediately after the conversion or happened over time, but if it was over time getting more and more frequent it could definitely be a bad or loose connection some place. Check your wiring. Let me know what you find out cause im days away from doing the swap, just waiting on parts. Good Luck

Why my car was dying @ stop lights.
 

I got it figured out. My car kept trying to go into open loop down around my idle area of the map. I have my maps pretty lean there. This was not a problem with the auto, but maybe the prolight flywheel doesn't have enough enertia to keep things spinning. I just threw some more fuel in the mix down low and everything is OK. :fruit:

I got a question, Im in the middle of doing the swap right now and i'm kinda stuck on the stock counterwieght. Is there another way to get this off other that with the SST. Do i need to take it off. I have a ACT lightweight Flywheel with new counter weight, can i just use the one thats on there? Is there any difference between the ACT and factory one. Thanks.

Just use the one that is there. That is what I did. :)

I used the ACT Prolight flywheel with the STOCK auto counter weight. :D

Thanks. looked the same but wanted to make sure. Another question, is there a trick to reinstalling the drive shafts?, I did what it told me in the manual but the shits still wont go it all the way. i didnt replace the clips but they measure to what the should be. Any advice?

Drive shafts? as in Differential to Wheel, or Drive Shaft as in Tranny to Differential? Some people refer to them as different things....

Differential to Wheel

Wow you're one of the first peope I have responded to that actually calls them the right thing.... I will take a look at mine tomorrow, im to drunk to think about it right now :)

LoL, Thanks, i need to take a break anyway, Going on 12 hours stright, which could also be the problem.

I have found that tapping the drive shafts in with a big hammer works best. :)
You can get it almost all the way in by hand, maybe about 3/8 of an inch out then I had to hit the drive shaft @ the hubs to get the rings to snap on in. I know at least one other member has done it this way too.

Brady Mahoney

Yeah I used a rubber mallet to get mine in... i think there was three sides you can tap on, just do it evenly and it should slip in nicely.

Just got it, thanks for the help..... Last night i did probly the most frustrating things so far on the swap, and that was the MOMO Pedal covers. Pain in the ass.

The rubber mallet didn't work well for me, it seems to just bounce off.

I used a rubber mallet and it worked, after a cupple nice "taps".

hahahah mines kind of hard rubber...

All right the mechanical part is pretty much done other then the stupid 10 dollar hard-line for the clutch which wont be here till Wednesday or Thursday, so now the electrical till then. I know this has been discussed in a few different threads but I haven't found it all in one place. I've pieced together a few things. So let me know if the information I have is correct and what im missing: connect pins 8 & 9 on the inhibitor switch harness to get the car to start. and cut the blue/white wire @ pin G on the Cruise control ECU connector for the cruse control. Now ive glanced at the manual and it tells me what pins go to what switch. so do I just add wires to the harness and run them to the transmission and make my own connection? Or are the wires already ran down there? Just trying to get all the information in one place. Sorry for being a little lazy and not tracing the wires but im taking a break from the car for tonight. about 36 hours already, need sleep, food, and to get all this shit off me(ATF,oil, brake fluid, gas, and grease).

hey also the lines from the auto tranny going to the oil cooler. Can i remove the oil cooler since they wont be connected to the tranny anymore? Or dose it serve another purpose, didn't see anything in the manual.

you can get some lines to use the auto coller as a secondary oil cooler as they are the same thing... or you can just remove it....

Alright i need some help on the electrical side of this swap. I connect pins 8 & 9 on the inhibitor switch harness to get the car to start. and cut the blue/white wire @ pin G on the Cruise control ECU connector for the cruse control. Correct? Now do i need to run any wires or can i find the wires i need to hook up to the manual tranny already down there(ex 1-2 switch, reverse switch, netual switch, ect). I know i need to run the clutch switch.

Just found the clutch line at Peboys, so i should have this done tonight.

the lines are already there, they are just in that huge connector that goes down to the auto tranny. What clutch line did you find or use?

Found the Clutch Hardline(master cyl to hose). Its not bent but that's not a problem

oh, im just going to run a new hardline from the Master Cylinder all the way to the slave

I think the one i have is long enough to do that....It's 20in.....What the benifit to doing that? Would there be any difference?

I wouldn't run a hard line all the way through. The tranny moves. That is why there is a flexible line in between. :)

Just get a braided line to replace the rubber one.

I got the braded one already just got the hardline from Master to hose

Quick probley stupid question, there is a third box between the automation ECU and the Small Black box in very back(dont know the name).Do i still need it, or is it just for the automatic?

Alright nevermind look in the automatic section of the manual...dont need it.
Last question about wireing frist all connection needed to be made i can do from the wires that used to go to the Automatic transmission, correct? and as far as the sensors on the manual transmission are the wire colors the same? Ex: in the wire diagram the netual swich is Brown and light green, so there will be a brown and light green wire some place on one of the auto transmission Harnesses.

i dont think the actual sensors have the same color....

Ok i guess the only thing to do is to cut and run new wires from the ECU. Unless anyone knows what wires to connect to the manual sensors from the automatic harness to save me a cupple hours and a trip to the store to buy wire.

You don't need to run any wires to hook up the needed sensors. The speed sensor has the same plug so it plugs right in.

You already know to hook pins 8 & 9 together on the inhibitor switch connector ( page k-28 in the big green service manual) to get the car to start.

To hook up the reverse lights use pins 2 & 7, I beleive they are black and red.

I just cut the wires for the inhibitor switch off @ the auto tranny that gave me enough length to hook everything up. You only need the four wires in the fat harness.

Thank You

OK I took a picture of inhibitor switch, and labled the wires. Think i got it down except for a few sensors.

http://www.hotzoneusa.com/New_Folder/Wiring.jpg

8+9 Connect=power
2+7 Connect to reverse sensor on Tranny=Reverse light
?+? =Netural
?+?=1-2 switch

Ugh, all this seems confusing. I need to have a shop install mine but it's all so expensive. The cheapest place I found was ASI for 3k minimum. Average is like 5k. Ouch, so much pain...

(Just needed to gripe, ignore post)

I didn't hook up the neutral or the 1-2 switch so I can't be help there. :(

I didn't hook up the neutral or the 1-2 switch so I can't help there. :(

nice picture man ;)

Ill do it for considerably cheaper ;)

Remember the wires are a different color on the tranny side of the connector.

And yes that is a great picture, it should be alot of help to many swappers for years to come. :)

Is that just for labor?

1500 in parts
1500 in labor maybe

approximate?

Alright almost done other then the netural and 1-2 switch.
I have a question about the propeller shaft, in the manual it says to mark it when u take it off so you can put back on correctly, well my manual propeller shaft and differential dont have any marks, does it matter how i put it on? If so how can i tell which way.

And if anyone knows the wires for the netural and 1-2 switch please let know.

The pic was the engine side of the harness, not the tranny.

Reverse lights work and car has power.

BTW anything elise i should take pictures of since im down there. would of taken pics of the whole opperation but i had no help and was too damn dirty to use the camera.

Take pictures of the underside, the clutch slave and master, the starter, the bolts on the PPF... the drive shaft :)

lol

Dont worry about the propeller shaft, i think they balanced it from the factory and just want to make sure you put it on the same way, but you are using new equipment (new to your car anyway) so it really wont matter.

Take pictures of the underside, the clutch slave and master, the starter, the bolts on the PPF... the drive shaft :)

lol

Dont worry about the propeller shaft, i think they balanced it from the factory and just want to make sure you put it on the same way, but you are using new equipment (new to your car anyway) so it really wont matter.

Ok made a quick site with some pics, Anything elise u want to see, or a better pic of something let me know soon.
http://www.hotzoneusa.com/New_Folder/new_page

Im going to make a better page as soon as im done.

LOL, netural and 1-2 switch anyone?