So close and yet so far ...pointers on engine/tranny install
So close and yet so far ...pointers on engine/tranny install
I'm in the middle of an engine tranny install
I've got the engine tranny sitting on small wood blocks so that mount bolts
barely clear the subframe, tranny rear PPF brace bolt aligns with front brace holes,
so I'm about 3" forward of everything falling into correct position.
The drive shaft doesn't seen to mate with tranny splines even with slight rotation
of the drive shaft but I can't be certain that is the obstacle.
Tranny-driveshaft alignment marks are now gone.
What can I do to engage the driveshaft and get the engine + tranny back the
final 3" ?
I cant see any obvious hindrance points beyond the drive shaft possibly not mating
properly with tranny spline ahead of firewall, tranny bolts are clear of the driveshaft brace.
Are there easy ways of removing that driveshaf brace or driveshaft with the 4 wheels up on blocks ?
The tranny is in neutral with the park brake on.
I can easily re-hoist the engine to move it back the final 3" and there is 3" of clearance between
back of block + firewall hard lines.
Thanks
I've got the engine tranny sitting on small wood blocks so that mount bolts
barely clear the subframe, tranny rear PPF brace bolt aligns with front brace holes,
so I'm about 3" forward of everything falling into correct position.
The drive shaft doesn't seen to mate with tranny splines even with slight rotation
of the drive shaft but I can't be certain that is the obstacle.
Tranny-driveshaft alignment marks are now gone.
What can I do to engage the driveshaft and get the engine + tranny back the
final 3" ?
I cant see any obvious hindrance points beyond the drive shaft possibly not mating
properly with tranny spline ahead of firewall, tranny bolts are clear of the driveshaft brace.
Are there easy ways of removing that driveshaf brace or driveshaft with the 4 wheels up on blocks ?
The tranny is in neutral with the park brake on.
I can easily re-hoist the engine to move it back the final 3" and there is 3" of clearance between
back of block + firewall hard lines.
Thanks
Remove the drive shaft, install the engine and transmission loosely to the subframe and PPF. Reinstall drive shaft then torque engine mounts and PPF in spec alignment according to Mazda manual.
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: okinawa to tampa
the way ive always done engine swaps is to put the engine in first and stick 2-3in piece of wood between the main pulley and subframe. this will even out the engine since without the transmission attached, it hangs forward. then i attach the transmission. if your clutch is properly aligned and the engine is at the correct angle then the transmission slides right into the engine. you may have to give it a little push but if its fighting you then something is wrong. you will either have to adjust the angle of the engine by leaning it back more, spin the shaft on the transmission just a hair or verify your clutch is properly aligned with a clutch alignment tool.
once the transmission is mated to the engine i install the bolts. then i loosely install the ppf followed by the driveshaft. if you look inside the driveshaft where it goes into the transmission you will see one the teeth is not like the other. that is the key way that you need to match to end of the transmission for it to go in. also keep in mind that the driveshaft does not fully seat in the transmission. once its in, just pull it out enough so that it mates with the diff.
if i am reading your op right then you have the engine, transmission and driveshaft all together and youre trying to install it as one assy. ive never installed/removed and engine with the transmission still attached so i cant comment on how to deal with it. hopefully the method i use will help you in some way. if you still cant get it then post some pictures of the situation and we should be able to get a better idea of how to help you.
once the transmission is mated to the engine i install the bolts. then i loosely install the ppf followed by the driveshaft. if you look inside the driveshaft where it goes into the transmission you will see one the teeth is not like the other. that is the key way that you need to match to end of the transmission for it to go in. also keep in mind that the driveshaft does not fully seat in the transmission. once its in, just pull it out enough so that it mates with the diff.
if i am reading your op right then you have the engine, transmission and driveshaft all together and youre trying to install it as one assy. ive never installed/removed and engine with the transmission still attached so i cant comment on how to deal with it. hopefully the method i use will help you in some way. if you still cant get it then post some pictures of the situation and we should be able to get a better idea of how to help you.
I guess I'll find a way to remove the driveshaft.
Not easy with all wheels up on 4 blocks and only the parking brake holding them in place, but I'll find a way to secure the front wheels in place.
I don't want to split the engine/tranny again, mating the engine to the tranny was pretty difficult out of the car .. for me anyway.
Thanks everyone.
Not easy with all wheels up on 4 blocks and only the parking brake holding them in place, but I'll find a way to secure the front wheels in place.
I don't want to split the engine/tranny again, mating the engine to the tranny was pretty difficult out of the car .. for me anyway.
Thanks everyone.
if the trans / and engine are in one peice than you just need to lift wiggle it enough to get into position you will need help once the motor mounts are in position TIghten them up and work on bolting everything else into position .
ALSO like stated above take off the drive shaft .. its tomuch fo a pain to try and line it up
ALSO like stated above take off the drive shaft .. its tomuch fo a pain to try and line it up
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Max Buschkopf
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Nov 19, 2015 10:53 AM






