JDM_Leno

iTrader: (1)

I'm waking my car up from its winter nap, and while I was changing the oil and charging the battery, I decided to install the four viton check valves I picked up over the winter.

Big mistake.
I didn't pay attention to where the vac hose on the smallest, green/white check valve was going (which was to the "straight out" port of the double throttle control solenoid. I thought it was going to a metal nipple...and I twisted the vac line too hard, and ta-da, broke.

So, I've dutifully searched here, and I find that I can replace the sucker (ugh, that looks like an unpleasant job) - or, I can execute the double throttle system removal. I'm not sold on that, as it also requires a trip to mazda to replace all the seals and stuff, but moreso because some people report having had hesitations, etc without the double throttle system. I'm willing to try it because those reports are sorta disputed, and because it looks easier than ripping everything apart to get to that one broken solenoid - but, here is what I am wondering:

How does that solenoid work? Does the solenoid open/close to stop the flow of air *through* the solenoid to the single vac hose on the backside, or does it stop the flow between the vac lines that are going *up* and *out*. The reason I am wondering is because I was thinking I could just use a dab of JB weld to block off the nipple I snapped off, and attach the vac hose that went there to the one that exits *up* via a plastic tee.

But, that assumes those two ports are common entry/exit for the two hoses...and I don't know how those solenoids work.

So, does anyone know how they work? If I can't do it, then what route should I take? I haven't driven the car since late 2008, and I'm really itching to, so whatever I can do that's easiest/fastest, so long as it isn't going to make the car run like crap or cause bigger problems later.

Thanks!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Fsm:

JDM_Leno

iTrader: (1)

crap. Thanks for the answer though!

So I guess my next step is to cap off where those vac lines go, and cap off the DTC actuator.

I don't care about increased flow benefits, on my stock car with just a 3" downpipe, I spike to 11 or 11.5 psi sometimes, so I don't really want any more flow. I'm going to try the holley carb jet "pill" trick to get back down to 10psi max as soon as i'm back on the road.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

You don't really need to fix the broken solenoid. Simply cap off the lines on the front and back of the upper intake manifold. You will need to stay out of boost until the car warms up, since your double throttle solenoid is disabled