It started with about 4oz/day and now it's 8oz twice a day, uhg. The car never got hot becuase I would allways fill it but now it's loosing water faster and it got hot twice on me. It doesn't impress the hoochie when you have to pull over and wait. Anyhow, I checked the hoses and looked for drips or leaks. There is none that I could see. There is only 3 or 4 small wet spots on the ground ut no puddles. I decided to leave the cap open after I filled it while I was searching for leaks. I noticed the filler neck slowley became empty and the car was cold (in garage all night). It took about 20-30 min and the filler neck was empty but still no puddle on the ground.

 

sounds like your coolant seal is bad ?is it smokin bad ?

 

maybe the hose behind the air pump and the x over pipe ?

 

Smoke seems to be normal or rather I haven't noticed a difference. There was allways smoke for the first 10-15 after starting the car. I just look at it as being similar to a 2-stroke motorcycle.

 

try leaving the rad cap off and idling the car. If the bubbles don't stop, time for a rebuild

 

Will have to try that tomorrow when there is light (dark now). That's assuming that it takes longer for the filler neck to empty before the bubbles stop.

Can anyone confirm or eliminate:
bad filler neck
bad water lines to turbo
bad water pump

 

i went thru the same problem. i need a rebulid and i the process of getting my engine rebuilt right now.my coolant seals went bad. if there are bubbles i would stop driving it before things get worst and get a rebuild asap.

 

FYI,
I wouldn't stop driving it until it got too annoying to keep adding coolant...You aren't experiencing coolant overflowing from the overflow tank yet so it probably isn't that bad in the scheem of things. Before you run off and get a rebuild, try the CRC Block Weld treatment and it just may hold up for you. (Worked for me) However, if you are seeing coolant on the ground that means you are loosing some from somewhere else other than a o-ring...Which side is it from? Might want to give the turbo coolant lines a look....When I got mine the TB lower coolant line had a little leak and it was easily fixed.

Good Luck...

 

note the oil level on your dipstick and then keep adding water
after you've added about a litre check to see if the oil level is rising

don't know much about rotaries but this is how we confirmed the blown head gasket on a porsche 924turbo

eric e

 

This no workie on the rotary, they don't have head gaskets There is no path the coolant can take to get into the oil.

 

This happened to me too.......turned out the stock plastic radiator had a small split in the seam....only really leaked while running with pressure on the system. Take the radiator out and have it pressure tested at a shop. Its fairly painless and could save you alot of headache and money...........

Allen

 

The engine was rebuilt 50k ago. Another rebuild would be the last thing I would think of. I don't beleive the answer to everything is a rebuild and if a mechanich told me that without thorough testing, he would "NEVER" get my business again!

 

I have a fluidyne and there is no water leaks under the car when parked after shutdown.

 

I only saw coolant once and that was when I saw steam from the pasenger fender/hood. That makes me think of the overflow tank or the lines to the turbos. Unless the overflow tank is overflowing while driving, then I can eliminate it.

 

That doesn't work. I just tried it. It starts out with micro bubbles and then big bubble after 5 min when the coolant just pours out from the pressure just like a pot of water on the stove that was left boiling. Even with a 1/2 gallon of coolant poured out it just continues to pour out and with all that coolant loss there will be air in the system.

 

There ya go - time for CRC Block Weld. Stop driving the car until you do this.

 

Micro bubbles also know as champaign bubbles when you just start up usually means o-ring failure...I had this and did the blockweld treatment and it quit...how long will it last? dunno...

 

OK, where do you purchase the CRC Block Weld stuff? Any instructions, what to look for, what not to look for, etc?


D'oh, answered my own question:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/o-ring_fix.html

 

Good luck dude...It took me a little over a half day to do it...I think this is a great save if you don't drive you car every day and not pushing high boost...I am trying to make mine hold out through the summer...I only drive the car about 2.5-3k a year so hopefully it helps and you have good luck with it too.

 

An O-ring system is used to seal the various steel and aluminum sections of the rotor housings together. Because they are of different materials, their thermal expansion and contraction rates are different. Overheating leads to eventual warpage of sealing surfaces and the engine will have to be rebuilt. A car that exhibits white moke at cold startup coming from the tailpipe may have antifreeze in the combustion chamber, not to be confused with water vapor coming from the tailpipe on a cold morning. This is a result of a severely compromised O-ring seal. Minor leaks result in combustion gasses entering the coolant system.The low coolant light will come on periodically, yet there will be no signs of an external leak. The overflow tank, however, may contain more coolant than usual or it may be completely full. One way to test for a minor compromise (although it'll still necessitate a rebuild so there's nothing minor about it) is to have a smog sniffer placed over the overflow tank's mouth while the car is idling. Any hydrocarbons being pushed past the O-ring will be detected.

[QUOTE] For the full article, click here [QUOTE]

 

try changing your radiator and AST cap. I did and the leaking stop.

 

How many gallons of liquid does it take to fill the cooling system after a system flush? I need to know how many gallons of Evans coolant to order. MmMmMm coolant

The radiator was allready replaced (fluidyne) and so was the cap (Blitz).