Over the past couple of months, I have started and almost completed my single turbo build. The only thing that I need to do is actually start the car, break in the new motor and tune.

Background.. I have a 2000 FD3s. I had the stock twins and have since gone to a 35r with a street ported motor. Motor is a fresh rebuild with new rotor housings and all seals replaced. I am using stock coils with an HKS amp, Trailing plugs in all 4, KG parts fuel setup with 550 primaries and 1680 secondaries. The 1680s are run using the FJO injector driver box. I am using a power FC that has been setup according to Chuck Westbrooks tuning notes. I have a datalogit and a techedge wideband, all installed and working properly. The engine harness has been depinned. Everything that is not essential has been removed.

I just did a compression check (with a autozone special tester) and the pulses on each rotor approach 95 on all 3 faces each. The motor is not at operating temps and the seals are not broke in, so I know the numbers should change.

I have had the car started on 2 occasions. Both times it ran like it needed to be tuned.. Imagine that... Anyway, the second time it ran, it did so for about 15-20 minutes. The car reached the temp of the thermostat (65c) and the idle dropped a bit. Then, the car stumbled. I tried to give it gas.. reved up fine, then died. Is not started since.

I am at a loss. I have no idea where to go from here. I have checked the wires and coils and I am getting spark, so that is not an issue. I am getting fuel and air as well.

I am not sure what other info might be needed, so please ask and offer advice. I will answer all questions. I need to get the car running so I can get it tuned. I really wanna drive the car.

 

When you put the engine back all together, did you adjust the air bleed valve and check TPS voltage on the UIM?

Some other minor things to check off the list are: MAP is connected, fouled plugs, engine flooded.

 

New plugs. Engine has been flooded and de flooded 100 times. I will have to research the air bleed valve as I havnt done anything with it. TPS was good before but I will check voltages. MAP is connected.

 

Might need to play with the idle screws and TPS as mentioned. Also, do you have a wideband? Might be too rich or too lean at idle. Fuel pressure?

thewird

 

I do have a wideband. I have tried to lessen the fuel at idle/starting to see if it helps but.. it didnt do anything. What range should I be looking at for an idel/startup AF/R? Fuel pressure is set at 37. I have messed with the TPS screw a bit but didnt help. I will have to go back and try messing with both of them a bit. Any guidance on what I should be doing with the 2 screws? I dont want to go out there with no idea at all ...

 

Idle will be smooth around 12.0-13.0 AFR. It will idle a little richer too but not as smooth and fouls the plugs.

The idle screw at the bottom of the throttle body opens a small port under there. Turning it counter-clockwise will raise your idle and vice-versa. Typically this is open 1-3 turns from closed. This also helps smooth out idle sometimes.

The idle screw at the top opens the throttle plates. This one usually shouldn't be touched unless you know what your doing with TPS voltages and such but sometimes a tweak helps smooth out idles. Turning it clockwise will raise your idle and vice versa. Take note of the position before making any changes.

thewird

 

Cool! I will try this out first thing tomorrow.