Shorten clutch pedal throw?
07-04-17, 11:45 AM
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Shorten clutch pedal throw?
Does anyone know a good way to shorten the clutch pedal throw?
My driving position is basically perfect except I have to use my tippy toes on the clutch because it stops so far back from where the brake pedal is.
I know I could use a thicker stopper and have the clutch pedal start higher, but I was wondering if there was a way to shorten the stroke without changing the pedal height.
And without replacing the master cylinder.
My driving position is basically perfect except I have to use my tippy toes on the clutch because it stops so far back from where the brake pedal is.
I know I could use a thicker stopper and have the clutch pedal start higher, but I was wondering if there was a way to shorten the stroke without changing the pedal height.
And without replacing the master cylinder.
07-04-17, 12:43 PM
#2
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you can, the stop up at the top is adjustable. not sure about the bottom, but it wouldn't be hard to do if its not already
07-05-17, 10:59 AM
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
The clutch pedal has a lot of adjustment. There are 2 things you will be adjusting -
- the stop, this is the top of the clutch pedals throw and sets how high up the clutch pedal will be.
- the rod, this is the rod that goes into the back of the clutch master.
First off, this is all assuming you have healthy clutch hydraulics. If it's leaking, has weird issues, air in the system, anything, fix that first.
Stock, the FD typically has a good inch or so of total slop at the top of the clutch pedal's travel. You only need a little bit there, like a quarter inch, just enough so there is no pressure on the hydraulics while the clutch pedal is up at the top of its travel.
Next, there is typically a lot of dead space at the end of the clutch pedal travel - the clutch is already disengaged and the pedal just keeps going down.
I like to adjust the rod with the engine running and the transmission in neutral. If you get down in the driver's foot well you can hear the transmission spinning, push the clutch pedal down with your hand and it will go quiet when you disengage the clutch.
To adjust the rod, there's a lock nut that you loosen then you can screw the rod in and out to adjust the throw and where the engagement point is. The clutch switch sets the top of the travel, unplug the wiring to the switch and undo the lock nut and you can screw that in and out to set the top of the travel.
Make sure to tighten the lock nuts when done and to plug the clutch switch back in!
Takes around 10-15 minutes of fiddling with it in the driveway and you can change quite a few things.
Dale
- the stop, this is the top of the clutch pedals throw and sets how high up the clutch pedal will be.
- the rod, this is the rod that goes into the back of the clutch master.
First off, this is all assuming you have healthy clutch hydraulics. If it's leaking, has weird issues, air in the system, anything, fix that first.
Stock, the FD typically has a good inch or so of total slop at the top of the clutch pedal's travel. You only need a little bit there, like a quarter inch, just enough so there is no pressure on the hydraulics while the clutch pedal is up at the top of its travel.
Next, there is typically a lot of dead space at the end of the clutch pedal travel - the clutch is already disengaged and the pedal just keeps going down.
I like to adjust the rod with the engine running and the transmission in neutral. If you get down in the driver's foot well you can hear the transmission spinning, push the clutch pedal down with your hand and it will go quiet when you disengage the clutch.
To adjust the rod, there's a lock nut that you loosen then you can screw the rod in and out to adjust the throw and where the engagement point is. The clutch switch sets the top of the travel, unplug the wiring to the switch and undo the lock nut and you can screw that in and out to set the top of the travel.
Make sure to tighten the lock nuts when done and to plug the clutch switch back in!
Takes around 10-15 minutes of fiddling with it in the driveway and you can change quite a few things.
Dale
07-05-17, 11:49 AM
#4
I have this problem too (short leg problem?).
I adjust my seat so I can get the gas and brake to the floor and I still can't quite get the clutch to the floor (I don't know if my Left ankle is less flexible or if it has to do with pedal offset/throw).
I adjust the clutch engagement point up high like Dale mentions and no problems.
Doesn't help when I have to drive other peoples cars though...
I adjust my seat so I can get the gas and brake to the floor and I still can't quite get the clutch to the floor (I don't know if my Left ankle is less flexible or if it has to do with pedal offset/throw).
I adjust the clutch engagement point up high like Dale mentions and no problems.
Doesn't help when I have to drive other peoples cars though...
07-10-17, 01:52 AM
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
I have this problem too (short leg problem?).
I adjust my seat so I can get the gas and brake to the floor and I still can't quite get the clutch to the floor (I don't know if my Left ankle is less flexible or if it has to do with pedal offset/throw).
I adjust the clutch engagement point up high like Dale mentions and no problems.
Doesn't help when I have to drive other peoples cars though...
I adjust my seat so I can get the gas and brake to the floor and I still can't quite get the clutch to the floor (I don't know if my Left ankle is less flexible or if it has to do with pedal offset/throw).
I adjust the clutch engagement point up high like Dale mentions and no problems.
Doesn't help when I have to drive other peoples cars though...
I am worried about clutch wear since you need an air gap of some size, apparently.
Also might inadvertently drive forward during race starts... which would not be good.
I was hoping there would be an easy way to modify the linkage for a different throw ratio... I don't want the pedal to start too high or end too low.
07-10-17, 01:54 AM
#6
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
The clutch pedal has a lot of adjustment. There are 2 things you will be adjusting -
- the stop, this is the top of the clutch pedals throw and sets how high up the clutch pedal will be.
- the rod, this is the rod that goes into the back of the clutch master.
First off, this is all assuming you have healthy clutch hydraulics. If it's leaking, has weird issues, air in the system, anything, fix that first.
Stock, the FD typically has a good inch or so of total slop at the top of the clutch pedal's travel. You only need a little bit there, like a quarter inch, just enough so there is no pressure on the hydraulics while the clutch pedal is up at the top of its travel.
Next, there is typically a lot of dead space at the end of the clutch pedal travel - the clutch is already disengaged and the pedal just keeps going down.
I like to adjust the rod with the engine running and the transmission in neutral. If you get down in the driver's foot well you can hear the transmission spinning, push the clutch pedal down with your hand and it will go quiet when you disengage the clutch.
To adjust the rod, there's a lock nut that you loosen then you can screw the rod in and out to adjust the throw and where the engagement point is. The clutch switch sets the top of the travel, unplug the wiring to the switch and undo the lock nut and you can screw that in and out to set the top of the travel.
Make sure to tighten the lock nuts when done and to plug the clutch switch back in!
Takes around 10-15 minutes of fiddling with it in the driveway and you can change quite a few things.
Dale
- the stop, this is the top of the clutch pedals throw and sets how high up the clutch pedal will be.
- the rod, this is the rod that goes into the back of the clutch master.
First off, this is all assuming you have healthy clutch hydraulics. If it's leaking, has weird issues, air in the system, anything, fix that first.
Stock, the FD typically has a good inch or so of total slop at the top of the clutch pedal's travel. You only need a little bit there, like a quarter inch, just enough so there is no pressure on the hydraulics while the clutch pedal is up at the top of its travel.
Next, there is typically a lot of dead space at the end of the clutch pedal travel - the clutch is already disengaged and the pedal just keeps going down.
I like to adjust the rod with the engine running and the transmission in neutral. If you get down in the driver's foot well you can hear the transmission spinning, push the clutch pedal down with your hand and it will go quiet when you disengage the clutch.
To adjust the rod, there's a lock nut that you loosen then you can screw the rod in and out to adjust the throw and where the engagement point is. The clutch switch sets the top of the travel, unplug the wiring to the switch and undo the lock nut and you can screw that in and out to set the top of the travel.
Make sure to tighten the lock nuts when done and to plug the clutch switch back in!
Takes around 10-15 minutes of fiddling with it in the driveway and you can change quite a few things.
Dale
07-10-17, 01:55 AM
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter